Noteworthy Washington White Wine Varietals

At the Wine Bloggers Conference (June 25 - 27) I attended a session on the "Washington Wine Industry." In it, Paul Gregutt asked "what is Washington's signature grape?" For reds, it's obvious: Cabernet Sauvignon (old vines on vinifera roots); Cabernet Franc and Merlot (the best in the U.S.) and Syrah (encompassing a remarkably wide range of styles). But what of Washington whites? Here's my rundown of the most noteworthy white varietals.

Chardonnay - This is the largest produced white variety in the state. But most of it was planted before much thought was given to picking the best sites. That will require further sorting out. There are a few outstanding Chardonnay vineyards though: Connor Lee, south of Othello is one of the best and Buty makes an exceptional one; Chateau Ste. Michelle's Canoe Ridge Estate overlooking the Columbia River; Stillwater Creek on the Royal Slope (Sparkman Cellars and Novelty Hill); French Creek - 30 year old vines used in Maison Bleue's Au Contraire Chardonnay.

Riesling - This variety is poised to make a comeback. See my blogs of May 26 and June 16 for more about this grape.

Sauvignon Blanc - This variety is getting better and better. Earlier versions tended toward the extremes of green and herbal or tropical and figgy. Now better balanced wines are being made that show characteristics of gooseberry, citrus and minerals (picked up by deep rooted vines). Also improved trellis management has let to better ripening and fruit-acid balance. Fine examples: Efeste "Feral"; Chateau Ste. Michelle's Horse Heaven Hills; Woodward Canyon (strikingly Sancerre like).

Semillon - This is one of Washington's best keep secrets. The variety can show elegant, complex characteristics of waxy fruits, crisp citrus acidity and stony minerals. Some top Semillons are: Amavi Cellars, Va Piano, Robison Ranch Cellars, L'Ecole No. 41. There are also outstanding blends of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc: DeLille Chaleur Estate Blanc, Buty, and Covington Cellars "Dress White."

Viognier - This Rhone varietal is becoming better known. Its sensuous tropical character makes it particularly appealing. There is a wide range of styles from crisp, elegant and Chardonnay-like to opulently rich and creamy. Some fine examples: aMaurice (refined and ageworthy); Maison Bleue, William Church, Syncline, Robison Ranch (these are in the middle of the road style); Stephenson Cellars (opulently styled).

Marsanne - This varietal, along with Roussanne, is responsible for the great Hermitage Blanc of the north Rhone. Several Rhone-style specialists have added it to their white wine repetoires: McCrea Cellars, Syncline Cellars, DeLille Cellars.

Roussanne - Some wineries make this exotically-styled wine into a varietal: Forgeron Cellars, Maison Bleue, SuLeri Cellars (terrific value). Some blend it with Marsanne and or Viognier: DeLille Cellars, McCrea Cellars.

Gewurztraminer - The "Spicy Traminer" which originated in Alsace grows best only in a few areas, most notably in the Columbia Gorge where the 30+ year old Celilo Vineyard is located. The younger Evergreen Mountain vineyard has considerable potential. Best examples: Dowsett Family (Celilo) Domaine Pouillon (Evergreen Mountain).

Pinot Gris - Until a few years ago, Washington Pinot Gris wines were light bodied and somewhat green-toned. Now they have improved to the point where they exceed their Oregon counterparts, showing rich floral aromas and creamy textures, counterpointed by fine fruit acids. Fine examples: Andrew Will Cuvee Lucia, Locati Cellars, Columbia Crest H3, Wines of Substance.