Finding the Wineries West of Walla Walla

Last Saturday, I drove from Walla Walla to Prosser to visit some wineries there and then back, stopping at Red Mountain on the way back. Going west out of town, I drove on the newly opened four lane Highway 12. On the way back I continued on the old Highway 12 and found myself forced to make circuitous detours back to downtown Walla Walla. Much of the old highway is being repaved and approaches to the new highway being constructed.

If you plan to be driving into Walla Walla in the near future and want to stop at some wineries on the way, be careful! Yesterday (Wednesday) I took a drive on the new Highway 12 to have a first hand look at what is going on and its impact on the wineries along old Highway 12. Here is what I found, going east to west.

There is an exit at Spalding Road with a sign for the Whitman Mission but no signs for wineries. At Reininger Cellars (to the right off Spalding; Three Rivers is across the old Highway 12 a bit to the east) I learned that a blue sign for wineries is being made in Yakima, but that may take some more weeks before it is erected. To get to Bunchgrass (Saturdays only) go east past the "Road Closed" sign at the Wallula Road exit and drive another half mile.

On the new Highway 12, at Frenchtown Road about another two miles west of Spalding there are makeshift orange signs on the roadway shoulders that read:

WINERIES OPEN

FOR BUSINESS

The problem is that by the time you see these signs, you will hardly have time to turn off to the exit. This exit will take you to Cougar Crest at the corner of Frenchtown Road and old Highway 12. To get to Glencorrie, go west past the "Road Closed" sign (there is a "Wineries Open" - actually only one winery - sign).

Needless to say, all this has had a negative impact on the wineries along the old Highway 12 (Waterbrook, L'Ecole No. 41 and Woodward Canyon are located west of the junction where the new highway joins the old). Business is down 30 to 60 percent The most adversely affected is Skylite Cellars situated in the no man's land between the Myra Road interchange and the Wallula exit off old Highway 12. The new section of Highway 12 has been under construction for well over a year and obviously there was plenty of time to make advance preparations to have signage in place when the new highway opened. Both the state and local Departments of Transportation have screwed up royally.

Two New Summertime Wines

Here are two wines that were made in such limited quantities that they will likely be gone by August.

2009 Gifford Hirlinger Pinot Gris, Walla Walla Valley ($18)

This is a bright, attractive white from the winery's estate vineyard. Brilliant straw color. Enticing lilac-scented pear, melon and orange peel nose. The flavors are well-extracted and creamy-textured, counterpointed by touches of hazelnut and pineapple on the finish. 18/20 points.

2009 Tertulia Cellars Rose du Mourvedre, Yakima Valley, Den Hoed Vineyard ($16)

This displays a deep pink color and an attractive nose of raspberry and strawberry with whiffs of clove and allspice. The red fruit flavors are lively and vivacious, followed by a zingy squeeze of cranberry juice on the nearly dry finish. This recalls the fine roses of Provence. 18/20 points.