What is Carbonic Maceration / New Wines Tasted
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- Written by Rand Sealey
What is Carbonic Maceration?
In the February issue of the Review of Washington Wines there are two wines that were fermented by carbonic maceration: the 2022 Ita Nouveau of Zinfandel and the 2022 Hoquetus "La Syranique" Carbonic Syrah. Both are distinctive young wines from red grapes.
Carbonic maceration is an anaerobic technique where carbon dioxide is pumped on the top of a sealed container filled with whole grape clusters. The gas permeates the grape skins and start fermentation at intracelluar level, a process taking place in the intact berries. The result is a fruity wine with low tannins. The process is commonly used to produce Beaujolais Nouveau. The wines can be drunk young and have limited aging potential.
More New Wines
Here's a selection of French and American Wines tasted recently.
Rhone Wines
2020 Roger Sabon Lirac ($23.99 - Esquin) - Lirac is just across the river from Châteauneuf du Pape. Produced from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, this shows a deep purplish ruby color and ripe aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, tobacco, lavender, oy olive and spiced incense. The flavors are thick and fleshy, marked by licorice, dark chocolate, French roast and minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts and burnt charcoal, followed by a heady (15% alcohol), spiced (cinnamon, nutmeg) ripe tannin finish. Super value. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Domaine Saint Galet Châteauneuf du Pape ($40.99 - Esquin) - Composed of 80% Grenache, 12% Mourvèdre and 8% Syrah, this displays a deep ruby color and rich aromas of fraises de bois, blueberries, brambly currants, black roses, sweet tobacco, lavender, olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors are deliciously mouth filling with red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and mas minerals. On the back the wine fills out with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs and suede leather, followed by a spiced ripe tannin finish. "So delicious," says Lynn. 18.5+/20 points.
Burgundy Wines
2020 Justin Girardin Santenay Blanc, "Les Terrasses de Bievaux" ($36.99 - Esquin) - Santenay is near the southern end of the Côte de Beaune. This shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear, peach, Crenshaw melon, citrus, pear blossoms, acacia flowers and yellow incense. The flavors are vivid, pure Chardonnay, and simultaneously crisp and viscous, with white fruits that are accented by pear skins, peach stones and stony minerals. On the back, the wine sharpens its focus with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches if almond and lemon zest on the finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Savigny-les-Beaune, "Les Gollardes" ($38.99 - Esquin) - Savigny is situated northwest of Beaune. This shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas of fraises de bois, black currants, black roses, sweet tobacco, and incense. The flavors are ample yet deep and focused, with wild fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and hillside minerals. On the back, the wine takes a chewy texture, with sensations of macerated fruits, roasted nuts, mocha, fraise and créme de cassis liqueurs and kidskin, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Joseph Drouhin Côte de Beaune ($59.99 - Esquin) - This comes from a 1.5 hectare Domaine vineyard plus declassified Premier Cru Beaune wines. It exhibits a deep brick red color and seductive aromas of fraises de bois, black currants, blood orange, crushed roses, tobacco leaf, wild violets and incense. The flavors are simultaneously supple and vigorous, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and minerally earth. On the back, the wine fills out with pressed berries, toasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a lingering soft tannin finish. 19/20 points.
American Chardonnay
2021 Wente Chardonnay, Monterey, Aroyo Secco, Riva Ranch Vineyard ($19.99 - Safeway) - This is a delicious Chardonnay. Brilliant lemon-gold colored, it possesses floral aromas of Asian pear-apple, Elberta peach, papaya, lemon custard, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and vanillin. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with bright yellow fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins, peach stones and hillside minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with pear and peach liqueurs and touches of hazelnut and oak on the finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2021 Ferrari Carano Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($22.99 - Safeway) - Ferrano Carano put Sonoma Chardonnay in the limelight in the 1980's. This vintage displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear-apple, white peach and citrus, with aromas of apple and orange blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with white fruits that are accented by grape skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up pear and peach liqueurs, hazelnuts and touches of crème fraiche and baking spices, followed by a finely fruited finish. "They really know how to make Chardonnay," says Lynn. 18.5+/20 points.
2021 Willamette Valley Vineyards Dijon Clone Chardonnay, Willamette Valley ($26.99 - Safeway) - Brilliant lemon-gold colored, this wine emits aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, Casaba melon, Key lime, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and wet stone. The flavors are brisk, with yellow and green fruits that are imbued by grape and pear skins, peach stones and ferruginous minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and lime zest on the way to a lingering crisp yet finely fruited finish. 18.5+/20 points.
Wines Tasted Recently: France & California
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Here are some French and California wines we've tried lately.
New French Wines
N.V. Luc Belaire Rare Rosé Sparkling Wine ($33.98 - Super 1, Walla Walla) - One of the best selling French bubblies in the U.S., this displays a gorgeous copper-pink color, streaming bubbles and enticing aromas of strawberry, black currant, blood orange, crushed roses, lavender and orange incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with red and orange fruits that are intermixed with grape skins and minerals. The resonance continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, enlivened by CO2 on the lasting off-dry ("sec") finish. "Absolutely delicious," says Lynn. 18.5+/20 points.
N.V. Bourdaire Gallois Champagne Extra Brut ($58.99 - Esquin) - Produced from Pinot Meunier, a red grape usually used for blending with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this is an extraordinary Champagne. It displays a brilliant amber color, streaming bubble and lovely aromas of pear, peach, strawberry and blood orange, with scents of pear and orange blossoms, jasmine and orange incense. The flavors are dynamic, with white and orange fruits that are energized by CO2 and brisk fruit acids and accented by toast and roasted hazelnuts, followed by a lingering Extra Brut (under 6 g/L dosage) finish. 19+/20 points.
N.V. Perrier-Jouët Champagne Grand Brut ($69.99 - Safeway) - Back in about 1976, Esquin was the first to offer Perrier-Jouët Champagne in Seattle, including the famous "Belle Epoque" flower bottle. The current rendition offers a brilliant gold color, persistent bubbles and floral aromas of apple, peach, lemon custard, brioche, apple blossoms and acacia flowers. The flavors are simultaneously brisk and elegant, with vivid white fruits that are accented by grape skins minerals. The bubbles keep on coming along with bracing acids and touches of cream and toast on the lingering true Brut finish. 19+/20 points.
2020 Domaine Pascal Berthier Mâcon-Chaintré "Roxanne" ($21.99 - Esquin) - Chaintré is situated just outside of Pouilly-Fuissé in the Maconnais. This one offers a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of pear-apple, white peac, lemon, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors are vivid, pure Chardonnay, with notes of pear skins, peach stones and granitic minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest, followed by a minerally, juicy Pouilly-Fuissé-like finish. Super value. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Domaine Nôtre Dame des Pallierès Gigondas, "La Mourre" ($32.99 - Esquin) - Ever since we offered one from Château Raspail at Esquin in 1970, Gigondas has been one our favorite South Rhône wines, usually made primarily Grenache (here, 80%) with Syrah (10%) and Mourvèdre (10%). Here, we have a tasty version with a deep ruby color and intense aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black currant, black roses, pipe tobacco, lavender, olive and spiced incense. The flavors are deliciously mouth filling, with black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, black tea and Montmirial minerals. On the back, the wine fills out with crème de cassis, blueberry preserves and charcoal, followed by a spiced (nutmeg, clove) ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Domaine Nôtre Dame des Pallierès Gigondas, "Bois des Mourres" ($35.99 - Esquin) - This comes from a higher elevation site, just below the Bois des Mourres. From the same grape percentages as above, it shows a deep ruby color and intense aromas of blackberries, mountain blueberries and b, lavlack currants, with scents of crushed roses, sweet tobacco, lavender and sweet incense. The flavors are deep and mouth encompassing, with black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and hillside minerals. The penetration continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts and a bit of oak, followed by a satisfying ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2020 Brotte Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc, "Hautes de Barville" ($40.99 - Esquin) - Most Châteauneuf du Pape is red, but a small amount of white wine is produced, this one from Grenache Blanc. It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and striking aromas of Asian pear-apple, white peach, Crenshaw melon and grapefruit. with scents of apple blossoms, jasmine and wet mas stones. The flavors are bright and brisk, laser-like, with white fruits that are accented by grape and pear skins and minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and grapefruit peel on the lingering finish. 19/20 points.
Goin' to Cali
Back in the 1980's, we sold a lot of California Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. Customers would buy them by the case for everyday drinking. Bogle was a popular brand, along with other good ones like Pedroncelli, Parducci and Sebastiani. We picked up these two which are still great values.
2020 Bogle Petite Sirah, California ($8.99 - Super 1) - Petite Sirah is not a Syrah, but actually Durif. Ruby-crimson colored, this version emits ripe aromas of raspberry, cranberry, black currant, purple lilac, mulberry, tobacco and cracked pepper. The flavors are ample, yet robust, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cola, roasted coffee beans and earth. On the back, the wine fills out with roasted berries and nuts, mocha, creme de cassis and charcoal, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18/20 points.
2019 Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel, California ($8.99 - Super 1) - This version shows a ruby color and rich, smoky aromas of raspberry, blackberry, cherry, plum, black roses, sagebrush and spiced incense. The flavors are ample yet deep, with black and red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, espresso and red earth. The wine builds up on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts and kirsch on the way to a juicy spiced (cinnamon, nutmeg) warm moderate tannin finish. 18/20 points.
We're always on the lookout for good values in California Pinot Noir. Here are two from the North Coast.
2020 Bewitched Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($20.99 - Safeway) - The Russian River Valley is a top area for Pinot Noir. This one offers a brick red color and smoky aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, red roses, tobacco leaf, orange peel, and stick incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder, orange pekoe tea and alluvial minerals. The back picks up pressed fruits, toasted pecans, fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a supple moderate tannin and acid finish. 18+/20 points.
2020 La Crema Pinot Noir, North Coast ($28.99 - Safeway) - Since 1979, La Crema put the North Coast on the map with their well made Pinots and Chardonnays. This shows a deep brick red color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, cherries, red currants, crushed roses, tobacco leaf, rubbed sage and sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously supple, with copious red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder, orange pekoe tea and coastal minerals. The appeal continuesmon the back with pressed berries, fraise and cassis liqueurs and No. 2 pencil lead, followed by a smooth moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
Washington Wine News
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Here are some news items to start off the new year.
Va Piano Buys Acreage in SaVein Vineyards
Last week, Justin Wylie's Va Piano Vineyards announced the purchase of 53 acres in the SeVain Development in the South Valley, on the Oregon side. The vineyard will be planted with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, primarily for the winey's Club varietal program. Also some Sangiovese will be grown for a "Super Tuscan" wine program. METIS facilitated the acquisition.
The Marcus Whitman Hotel Sold to Columbia Hospitality
Also announced last week was the sale of Walla Walla's venerable hotel has been sold to the Columbia Hospitality management company. Kyle Mussman remains a partner in the operation. There are plans to upgrade the hotel and dining facilities.
Chateau Ste Michelle's Paula Elam Passes Away
On December 20, Paula Renée Elam who headed Chateau Ste Michelle's Sparking Wine division since 2015 passed away. She was largely responsible for expanding the Winery's sparking wine program which in addition to the Domaine Ste Michelle line, includes the upscale "Luxe" line which will be reviewed in the February issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
Dan McCarthy Passes Away
Another death in the wine industry is that of Dan McCarthy of the Seattle wine retailer, McCarthy & Scheirin, on December 3 in Mexico. I knew Dan as a highly respected competitor when I owned Esquin Wine Merchants until 1997. As a friendly and affable gentleman, he will be missed.
Washington Wine License Plates Now Available
The law establishing a program for Washington wine vehicle license plates has gone into effect. The plates depict The Benches Vineyard at the Wallula Junction on the Columbia River. Applications for the new plates is on line only, through "Washington Wine Commission Plate" website.
Looking Ahead to February
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- Written by Rand Sealey
As we enter the new year, there's a lot coming up with Washington (and Oregon) wines. We are in the midst of tasting and writing up new releases for the February issue of the Review of Washington Wines, Here's what we have coming up.
From the Walla Walla Valley, we will have Winter releases from Sleight of Hand, Canvasback, Reininger, Smoky Rose, Hoquetus and Time & Direction. There will also be new releases for Dane Iussig's Entiat Winery in Cashmere and Scott Greenberg's Convergence Zone Cellars in North Bend. Yesterday, we visited Long Shadows on the Frenchtown Road where we tasted the outstanding 2019 Reds in the Chihuly Room. The February issue will have an expanded selection of Best Buys for 2023, including ones from Oregon.
As a matter of interest the issue will include the first wines of the 2022 vintage to be reviewed, Long Shadows' Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris Rosé and the Hoquetus Wine Co. "La Cyranique" Carbonic Syrah from the Seven Hills Vineyard. From Oregon, there will be a bevy of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir values.
The February issue goes on line Wednesday, January 25. Watch for it!
Looking Ahead to 2023 & Wines Tasted Recently
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- Written by Rand Sealey
As the year 2022 draws to a close, what's ahead in wine for 2023? My crystal ball is a bit murky, so it's hard to predict what will happen next year. But here's a try based on current trends.
More Consolidation in the Wine Industry
The year 2022 saw significant acquisitions of smaller family-owned wineries by larger ones. Tapltei on Red Mountain by Avennia, Tertulia Cellars in Walla Walla by Patterson Cellars and àMaurice in Walla Walla by Doubleback. We expect this to continue as owners find buy-outs to be attractive in the face of increasing production and marketing costs.
Wine Pricing Edging Higher
With inflation running about 8% the costs of producing wine have been rising. We are now seeing price points going from $15 to $18, $20 to $22-$25, $40 to $42-$45. In last week's listing of Best Buys of 2022, we had fewer wines scoring 19/20 points for $40 or less and wines scoring 18.5/20 points for $25 or less. Look to see more incremental price increases next year.
Expect Some Surprises
The wine industry is an ever changing one, so I will not be surprised by the unexpected. This is a testimony to the dynamism of wine making and marketing.
That's it for now. Next year will be an interesting one.
Wines Recently Tasted
Here are a few more wines we've tried over the past few weeks.
2020 Domaine Michel Magnien Fixin ($59.99 - wine.com) - This is a powerful Red Burgundy. It was aged in amphorae jars which adds to its intensity. It boasts a deep purplish color and intense aromas of blackberry, black cherry, black currant. crushed black roses, dark tobacco, violets and oriental incense. The flavors are mouth encompassing, pure Pinot Noir, with dark fruits that are infused with black licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and minerals. The back reveals macerated fruits, roasted nuts, mocha, creme de cassis and kirsch liqueurs and charcoal stick, followed by a firm yet sweetish lingering finish. 19+/20 points.
2019 Rancho Sisquoc Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County ($23.99 - wine.com) - This is a super buy in Central Coast California Pinot Noir. It features a brick red color and engaging aromas of wild strawberry, bayberpurchasry, cherry, crushed roses, tobacco leaf, orange peel, thyme and stick incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet substantial, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, orange pekoe tea and hillside minerals. On the back, the wines fillsout with fraise and kirsch liqueurs, recurring orange peel and soft charcoal, followed by a savory, sweet-dry moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.
Need some Champagne (real ones) for New Year? Here are three excellent values from proprietare-manipulants that can be purchased at Esquin and Safeway.
N.V. Moutard Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée ($39.99 - Esquin) - Produced from Pinot Noir, this offers a brilliant gold color, streaming bubbles and floral aromas of pear, white peach, lemon custard, brioche, apple blossoms and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are bright and resonant, finely fruited, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and recurring brioche, followed by a slightly nutted true brut finish. 19/20 points.
N.V. Moutard Champagne Brut Rosé de Cuvaison ($46.99 - Esquin) - Also 100% Pinot Noir. this is outstanding. It shows a brilliant copper tinged color, streaming bubbles and seductive aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, rose petals, orange peel and orange incense. The flavors are rich and round yet vibrant, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and saline minerals. On the back, the wine turns elegantly textured, with red and orange liqueurs that are enlivened by CO2. followed by a lingering Brut finish. 19+/20 points.
N.V. Château de Bligny Champagne Grande Reserve Brut ($44.99 - Safeway) - This was a standout at the GG Holiday Bubbles Party. It shows a brilliant gold color, frothy bubbles and aromas of pear, white peach, orange custard, pear blossoms, brioche and orange incense. The flavors are well rounded and creamy, yet focused, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up poire William liqueur and recurring brioche, followed by a lingering true Brut finish. 19/20 points.
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