More New Rosés
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Over the past couple of weeks, we've been sampling some new Rosé wines. The ones from Washington will be in the May and June issues of the Review of Washington Wines. But first, here's one from France's Côte de Provence.
2020 Peyrassol Côtes de Provence Rosé, "Les Templiers" ($15.99 - Safeway) - Light copper-pink colored, this exudes intriguing aromas of strawberries, pink peach, orange peel, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are lightly extracted but well delineated, with notes of grape skins, peach stones, and Provençal hillside minerals. The back picks up fraise and pêche liqueurs and a twist of orange peel, followed by a crisp, nicely fruited finish. 18+/20 points.
The following wines will be in the May issue of the Review of Washington Wines (on line April 23). Here are capsule reviews, full ones to be in the next issue.
2020 Gramercy Cellars Olsen Vineyard Rosé, Yakima Valley ($22) - Composed of 50% Cinsault, 26% Grenache, 24% Syrah, this offers a pink color and enticing aromas ofsStrawberry, currants, watermelon, tangerine and perfumes, with fresh, sprightly flavors and a pleasingly juicy finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 The Walls "Cruel Summer" Rosé, Yakima Valley, French Creek Vineyard ($25) - This 80% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre combination shows a light copper-pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, tangerine, star fruit, summer flowers and white incense. The flavors are lightly extracted, but well delineated, evoking a Côte d'Azur afternoon. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Aluvé Sangiovese Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($23) - Light copper-pink colored, this possesses enticing aromas of raspberry, Rainier cherry, watcmelob and tangerine with more extraction than the color would seem to indicate, with notes of grape skins, melon rind and minerals, followed by a pleasing dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Efestē Oldfield Estate Rosé, Yakima Valley ($25) - This 52% Mourvèdre, 48% Grenache combination offers lovely aromas of strawberry, kiwi, tangerine, orange blossoms, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with pink fruits, accented by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Saviah Cellars Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - From the Dugger Creek Vineyard, this offers a light copper-pink color and intriguing aromas of strawberries, pink cherries, tangerine, pink roses and cherry blossoms. The flavors are bursting with bright red fruits and the back picks up a bit of spritz on the way to a nicely juiced finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Tranche Estate "Pink Pape" Rosé Wine, Yakima Valley, Blackrock Vineyard ($22) - This Rosé (42% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 23% Counoise) presents a pale pink-copper color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, pomegranate, pink grapefruit and cherry blossoms. The flavors are lightly extracted and lively. For those liking a lighter Provence-like Rosé, this merits 18.5/20 points.
2020 Walla Walla Vintners Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - Although not stated on the label, this is 100% Sangiovese. It shows a light pink-copper color and lovely aromas of strawberries, Rainier cherries and tangerine with scents of cherry and orange tree blossoms. The flavors are bright and vivacious with a crisp, minerals dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
The following to be in the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
2020 Gorman "The Devil Wears Pink" Rosé, Yakima Valley, Boushey Vineyard ($18) - Brilliant pink-copper colored, this possesses enticing aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, tangerine, pink lilac, lavender and incense. The flavors are bright and fresh and the back picks up fraise liqueur and pomegranate seed followed by a juicy, lightly spiced finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Lu & Oly "Flowerhead" Rosé, Columbia Valley ($20) - A Mark Ryan Family wine, this 89% Sangiovese shows a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, tangerine peel, cherry blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively and the back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs. For those liking a light, fresh style, this gets 18.5/20 points.
2020 Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris Rosé, Columbia Valley ($18) - Light copper colored, this possesses intriguing aromas of strawberry, pink peach, cantaloupe, pink roses and orange incense. The flavors are light but deftly extracted, with notes of grape skins, peach stones, pekoe tea and minerals, followed by a brisk, nicely juiced finish. 18.5/20 points.
In addition to the above wines, the June issue will have this Sparkling Rosé:
2016 Northstar Brut Rosé. Methode Champenoise, Columbia Valley ($50) - This features a brilliant copper-pink color, frothy bubbles and exuberant aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, orange peel, cherry blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are accented by cherry stones and saline minerals and enlivened by the CO2, followed by a crisp, lively true Brut finish. 19/20 points.
A Special Announcement and More Rosés
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- Written by Rand Sealey
A Special Announcement
Effective today, April 1, 2021, the Review of Washington Wines will be called The Review of Walla Walla Wines. With over 120 wineries in the Walla Walla Valley, there are plenty of wines to be reviewed in each issue. No need to go traipsing all over the state to taste wines to be reviewed. We can just work at home.
Just kidding. April Fool's Day!
No Review Blog Next Week
On April 6, we will be driving over to the Westside, stopping in Woodinville to visit some wineries. On the way back, we will stop in Prosser. The wines will be in the May issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
More Rosés
I picked up a couple more French Rosé wines at the Thief Bottle Shop in Walla Walla. See last week's blog posting for others.
2020 J. Mourat "Rosée de Jardin" Val de Loire Rosé ($19) - This is a delightful light Rosé. It shows a light copper-tinged pink color and fresh aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, watermelon, and tangerine with scents of cherry blossoms, spring flowers and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are lively and deftly extracted, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring tangerine peek on the way to a brisk dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Famille Lefage "Miraflors" Rosé, Côtes Catalanes ($20) - This comes from the French side of Catalonia. It shows a brilliant copper-pink color and fragrant aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, tangerine, pink roses, cherry blossoms, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and vibrant, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and Mediterranean minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a nicely juiced dry finish. 18.5+/20 points.
The following Washington Rosés are to be reviewed in the May issue.
2020 The Walls "Cruel Summer" Rosé, Yakima Valley, French Creek Vineyard ($25) - This 80% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre Rosé is made in a light, Provencçal style. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Prospice Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - This combination of 49% Grenache, 27% Counoise and 24% Counoise is made in a Tavel-like style with bright red fruits that are given texture by sur lie aging. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Saviah Cellars Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($22) - From the Dugger Creek Vineyard, this 60% Sangiovese, 40% Barbera combination offers a fresh, brisk sale with bright red fruits and a dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Tranche Estate Pink Pape, Yakima Valley, Blackrock Vineyard ($22) - This Grenache-Cinsault-Counoise Rosé was cold cluster fermented, giving it a vivid, nicely fruited character. 18.5/20 points.
This weekend, we will be stopping at Aluvé and Walla Walla Vintners to try their rosés which will be in the May issue.
New 2020 French Rosés
- Details
- Written by Rand Sealey
We love French Rosé wines. They have qualities that evoke the south of France, especially Provence. The 2020 rosés are now starting to come into the U.S., luckily just as the 25% tariff on European Union wines has been lifted. Here are the ones we've had so far.
2020 Gérard Bertrand Côtes des Roses Languedoc Rosé ($15.99 - Safeway) - Composed of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, this offers a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, tangerine, red currant, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, nicely extracted, with notes of grape skin, fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a juicy, lightly spiced finish. 18+/20 points.
2020 Campuget Costières de Nimes Rosé, "Tradition" ($13 - The Thief) - Costières de Nimes is located west of Avignon. Composed of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache, this shows a bright copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, red currant, tangerine, crushed roses, orange blossoms and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, accented by grape skins and fraise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a twist of orange peel on the juicy finish. Terrific value. Lynn: 2 of 3 stars. 18/20 points.
2020 Caves d'Escelans "Whispering Angel" Côtes de Provence Rosé ($16 - 375 ml. - The Thief) - This displays a light pink-copper color and an attractive nose of strawberry, tangerine, red currant, pink roses, pink lilac and whiffs of lavender and incense. The flavors are bright and deft, with sweetish red fruits that are accented by grape skins and cassis liqueur, followed by fraise and cassis liqueurs, a bit of spritz, and a twist of tangerine peel, followed by a pleasing lightly fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Peyrassol Côtes de Provence Rosé, "Cuvée des Commandeurs" ($39 - The Thief) - Light pink-copper colored, this emits enticing aromas of strawberry, tangerine, red currant, orange blossoms, spring flowers and pink incense. The flavors are nicely extracted, with grape skins, lavender, Provençal herbs and minerals. The back picks up cassis and fraise liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a brisk, juicy finish. The resonance gives it a plus. 18.5+/20 points.
More later, as the new ones come in.
French and Portuguese Wines Tasted Recently
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Here, we have a bunch of new French wines we've had recently plus an introduction to Portuguese dry reds.
French Wines
N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé ($16.99 - Esquin) - Alsace is an excellent source for sparkling wines. This one displays a brilliant copper-pink color, frothy bubbles and enticing aromas of strawberries, pink cherries, tangerine, pink roses, lilac and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with bright fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and Vosges minerals, The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a tangy dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
N.V. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut ($18.99 - Esquin) - The white version offers a brilliant lemon-gold color, frothy bubbles and fresh aromas of apple, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, lemon verbena and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are crisp, almost steely, with vibrant white fruits are enlivened by the CO2. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire William and pêche liqueurs on the way to a dry true Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.
N.V. Perles Fines Sparkling Touraine Rosé ($20 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - The Loire Valley is also a fine source for sparkling wines. This one shows a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of fraises de bois, red currants, orange peel and orange incense. The flavors are brisk, enlivened by grape skins and CO2. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and a twist of orange peel on the dry finish. 18+/20 points.
2019 Bernard Fouquet Vouvray, "Cuvée de Silex" ($23.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - This Chenin Blanc features a brilliant lemon-gold color and a floral nose of Anjou pear, white peach, honeydew melon, citrus, pear tree flowers, jasmine, clover and flintstone. The flavors are nicely fruited, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and Loire River minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and lemon zest, followed by a pleasing faintly honeyed yet dry, persistently minerally finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon Blanc ($23.99 - Foodscape) - Most Chinon, across the Vienne from Vouvray, is red (Cabernet Franc) but a small amount of white is made from Chenin Blanc. This version shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and floral aromas of Anjou pear, white peach, citrus, a hint of wintergreen, wildflowers and white incense. The flavors are bright and lively, with notes of grape and pear skins, peach stones and limestone minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs on the way to a persistently minerally faintly honeyed finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre ($39.99 - Esquin $39 - Foodscape) - From one of the best Haut Loire producers, this shows wonderful Sauvignon Blanc purity. Brilliant lemon-gold colored, it possesses floral aromas of pear-apple, gooseberry, citrus, a bit of passion fruit, apple blossoms, honeysuckle, lemon verbena and gunflint. The flavors are finely fruited and resonant, with notes of grape and pear skins and saline minerals. The back picks up poire William liqueur and a touch of lemon custard, followed by a lingering, racy finely fruited finish. 19/20 points.
2017 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rouge ($31 - The Thief) - Bandol is situated between Marseille and Toulon and the wines, red and rosé, are mostly Mourvèdre. This red displays a ruby-brick color and rich, smoky aromas of wild raspberries, black currant, plums, crushed roses, mulberry, garrigue (lavender and Provençal herbs) and incense. The flavors are simultaneously supple and vigorous, with notes of black licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and cliffside minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with macerated berries, grilled nuts and touches of leather and charcoal, followed by a ripe moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.
Dry Portuguese Wines
While Portugal is best known for its sweet, fortified Port wines, much of the country's wine production is dry. Here's an introduction to the main wine producing regions.
2017 Aljás Bairrada, "Elegancia de Outrora" ($29.99 - wine.com) - Bairrada is situated on the north central coast of Portugal and the principal variety is the Baga grape. This one displays a deep ruby color and intoxicating aromas of raspberries, cherries, plums, black currants, black roses, mulberry, sweet tobacco, lavender and incense. The flavors are medium full bodied, with dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, bittersweet chocolate, chicory coffee and scorched earth. On the back, the wine turns fleshy yet firm, with sensations of macerated fruits, cherry and currant liqueurs and charcoal,mfollowed by a sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2016 Esperão Alentejo Riserva ($26 - The Thief) - Alentejo is situated south of Lisbon. This wine is composed of 40% Aragonez, 30% Alicante Bouchet, 20% Tincadeira and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It displays a deep ruby color and engaging aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, crushed black roses, mulberry, tobacco, mixed herbs and stick incense. The flavors are thick and chewy, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice root, cocoa, chicory coffee and calcareous earth. The saturation continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, mocha and charcoal, followed by a savory, spiced ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
Douro, situated in northeast Portugal, is the most prestigious region and is also encompassed by the Oporto appellation. The grapes are the same as those for Port, Tinto Cao, Roriz, Touriga Nacional and others, but made dry.
2018 Prats + Symington Douro, "Post Scriptim Chryseia" ($26.99 - Esquin) - This wine resembles a dry, unfortified Ruby Port. It shows a purplish-ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, black roses, sweet tobacco, black olive and sweet spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with licorice, cocoa, chicory coffee and hillside minerals. On the back, the wine gains intensity with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, mocha and touches of leather and dried cherries, followed by an, again, Port-like sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Quinta da Romaniera Douro, Touriga Nacional ($39.99 - Esquin) - Touriga Nacional is the principal grape of Oporto, here made in a dry style. It exhibits a deep ruby color and an intoxicating nose of wild raspberry, cherry, plum, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, field herbs and smoldering incense. The flavors are thick and deep, marked by licorice root, bittersweet chocolate, black tea and mixed earth. The intensity continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, mocha, raspberry and cherry liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a lingering sweet-dry, Port-like finish. 19/20 points.
2016 Quinta do Crasto Douro, Reserva ($41.99 - wine.com) - Produced from vines averaging 70 years of age, this displays an inky ruby color and intoxicating aromas of blackberry, black cherry, black plum, black roses, mulberry, tobacco, sandalwood and smoldering incense. The flavors, as well, are powerful, with dark fruits that are infused with licorice, dark cocoa, chicory coffee and hillside earth and minerals. The saturation continues on the back with roasted fruits and nuts, mocha, vanilla oak and graphite, followed by a lingering sweet-dry, Port-like finish. 19/20 points.
French and Italian Wines Tasted Recently
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- Written by Rand Sealey
The good news this week is that the Trump/Navarro 25% tariff on European Union wines has been suspended pending renegotiation of trade agreements. The previous administration's trade policy has been senseless, aimed more at "America First" than reciprocity. So we can now look forward to fairer prices for European wines. Up until now, the tariff hikes have been absorbed mostly by wine producers rather than consumers.
In the meantime, we have been tasting French and Italian wines from various sources. Here are my notes and scores.
Beaujolais
The 2019 vintage has turned out to be an excellent one in the Beaujolais region of Southern Burgundy. Fine weather during harvest resulted in healthy grapes that produced wines with fine extraction and depth.
2019 Louic Jadot Beaujolais-Villages ($13.99 - Safeway) - This shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas of strawberry, cherry, currant, red roses, bayberry and lightly spiced incense. The flavors, was well, are appealing, with generous young fruits that are intermixed with cola, medium roast coffee and earth. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs on the nicely fruited soft tannin finish. 18/20 points.
2019 Christophe Lapierre Moulin-à-Vent, Domaine de Chênepierre ($21.99 - Esquin) - This Cru Beaujolais is a great value. It displays a deep ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of wild raspberries. black currants, plums, crushed roses, bayberry, tobacco leaf, anise and incense. The flavors are simultaneously supple and vigorous, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and schist minerals. The back picks up macerated berries, mocha, framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a sweetish, satisfying finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon "Les Charmes" ($25.99 - wine.com) - This is what the French call a "vin tendre," a deliciously supple wine. Deep ruby colored, it possesses enticing aromas of strawberry, cherry, currant, crushed roses, mulberry, lavender and sweet incense. The flavors are ample, yet focused, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and granitic minerals. The back reveals fraise and cassis liqueurs, followed by an, again, supple finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Dominique Piron Morgon, Côte du Py ($29.99 -wine.com) - This is another attractive Morgon. It displays a ruby color and aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, red roses, tobacco, lavender and incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with red fruits that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, black tea and earth. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with sensations of cerise and cassis liqueurs, toffee and mocha, followed by a ripe moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie, "Les Cocottes" ($27 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This a real charmer. Brick red colored, it possesses seductive aromas of strawberries, cherries, currants, red roses, mulberry, lavender and oriental incense. The medium-bodied flavors are ripe and supple yet focused, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder and pink granite minerals. On the back, a slightly chewy texture emerges, with gently pressed berries, toasted hazelnuts and No. 2 pencil lead, followed by a slightly grainy moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Daniel Bouland Côte de Brouilly, "Cuvée Melanie" ($38 - The Thief) - The Côte de Brouilly is a high elevation slope. Ruby-crimson colored, this emits enticing aromas of fraises de bois, blueberrie and black currants, wcih scents of crushed roses, wildflowers, lavender and incense. The flavors are deliciously mouth filling, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and hillside minerals. On the back, the wine takes an elegant turn with pressed berries, toasted hazelnuts and fraise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a lingering chewy yet sleek finish. 19/20 points.
Maconnais
The 2019 vintage was a fine one for the Maconnais as well, with finely fruited and balanced Chardonnays. Here are two from the estimable negociant, Louis Jadot.
2019 Louis Jadot Macon-Villages Chardonnay ($12.99 - Safeway) - This offers a brilliant gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors are varietally pure, unencumbered by oak, with notes of grape and pear skins and Macon granitic minerals. The richly textured back picks up pour and pêche liqueurs on the way to a nicely juiced finish. 18+/20 points.
2019 Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé ($24.99 - Safeway) - Partially barrel fermented, this presents a brilliant gold color and floral aromas of pear, peach, citrus, pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors show considerable Chardonnay purity, with notes of pear skins, peach stones and granitic minerals. The resonance continues on the back with sensations of poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of lemon custard and vanilla oak, followed by a faintly honeyed finish. 18.5/20 points.
Two Italian White Gems
The high elevation Adige region ("Sud Tirol") of northern Italy is especially suited for the production of white wines. Here are two lovely examples.
2019 Kurtasch Müller-Thurgau, Alto Adige ($15.99 - Esquin) - Müller-Thurgau was developed in 1882 from a crossing of Riesling and Madeline Royal by Dr. Hermann Müller of the Swiss Canton of Thurgau. This version displays a brilliant straw color and intriguing aromas of pear, peach, melon, citrus, pear blossoms, Tyrollean wildflowers and lightly spiced incense. The flavors are pleasingly fresh and vibrant, accented by pear and grape skins and Alto Adige granitic minerals. The back picks up pear and peach liqueurs, melon rind and lemon zest, followed by a crisp, nicely fruited finish. Teriffic value. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Santa Gabriela Pinot Grigio, Valdadige ($15.49 - Safeway) - This presents a brilliant greenish gold color and floral aromas of green apple, white peach, melon, citrus, apple blossoms, jasmine, lemon verbena and white incense. The flavors are fresh and brisk, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and Adige Valley minerals. The back picks up apple and peach liqueurs, toasted hazelnuts, melon rind and lemon zest, followed by a persistently mineraly finish. 18.5/20 points.
Next Week: Portuguese and French wines, including Crémant and the Loire Valley.
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