More International Rosés
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Over the past few weeks, we've been trying several rosé wines from around the world. Here are our notes and scores.
2020 The Palm by Whispering Angel Côteaux d'Aix en Provence Rosé ($17.99 - wine.com) - This shows a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas pf strawberry, red currant, pomegranate, tangerine, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and bright, accented by grape skins, pomegranate seeds, minerals and a bit of spritz. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel on the crisp finish. "Refreshing," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Château Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé ($19.99 - wine.com) - Copper-pink colored, this Rosé emits enticing aromas of wild strawberry, pomegranate, blood orange, red currant, pink roses, orange tree blossoms, lavender and lightly spiced orange incense. The flavors are nicely extracted, with red and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins and minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs, pomegranate seeds and recurring orange peel, followed by a finely fruited dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Valériole "Vé" Rosé Méditerranée ($19 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This is a charming Rosé. It offers a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, red currant, pink roses, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are pleasingly light and fresh, with notes of grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and creme de cassis, followed by a refreshing dry finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Château Les Mescalances Côtes de Provence Rosé, "Romane" ($27 - The Thief) - This displays a light copper-pink color and enticing aromas of wild strawberries, peach, red currants, tangerine, pink lilac, lavender and whiffs of Provence herbs. The flavors are nicely extracted, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and minerals. On the back, the wine takes a deft turn with gently pressed fruits, fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a nicely fruited finish. The wine's equipoise gives it a plus. 18.5+/20 points.
2020 Isabelle Garrault Sancerre Rosé, "Les Grands Monts" ($26.99 - wine.com) - Sancerre Rosé is produced from Pinot Noir. This one shows a brilliant pin-copper color and a lovely nose fraises de bois, pink cherries, tangerine, pink roses, cherry blossoms and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are vivacious and nicely textured, with accents of grape skins, cherry stones and chalky minerals. The appeal continues on the back with fraise and cerise liqueurs, recurring tangerine peel and persistent minerals on the precise finish. "The essence of Sancerre," says Lynn. 18.5+/20 points.
2020 Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina Rubentis ($23 - The Thief) - Getariako Txakolina is the area in the Basque region from where this comes and Rubentis is the name for Rosé. Brilliant pink-copper colored, it emits intriguing aromas of wild strawberry, pink peach, cherry, watermelon, pink roses, pink lavender and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are fresh and nicely extracted, enlivened by CO2 (from the vinification process) and accented by peach stones and hillside minerals. The vibrancy continues one the back with strawberry and cherry liqueurs, followed by a finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Schlosskelleri Gobelsburg Cistercian Rosé ($20 - The Thief) - Composed of Zweigelt, St. Laurent and Pinot Noir, this Austrian Rosé shows a light copper-pink color and enticing aromas of wild strawberries, cherries, red currants, orange peel, pink roses and spiced orange incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with bright red and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins, cherry stones and minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with red liqueurs, recurring orange peel and a bit of spritz on the crisp, nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2020 Tablas Creek "Patelin de Tablas" Rosé, Paso Robles ($25.99 - wine.com) - This 75% Grenache, 19% Mourvèdre, 6% Counoise combination shows a light copper color and intriguing aromas of strawberry, red currant, tangerine, pink roses, orange blossoms, lavender and spiced orange incense. The flavors are pleasingly fresh and juicy, Tavel-like with notes of grape skins, creme de cassis and a twist of tangerine peel, followed by a crisp, finely fruity dry finish. Lynn: three stars, highest rating. 18.5+/20 points.
More next week along with the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines which goes on line Tuesday, May 25.
Spring Release Weekend 2021 in Walla Walla
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- Written by Rand Sealey
This year, unlike 2020 when it was canceled due to COVID-19, Spring Release Weekend, May 6-9, was a somewhat normal event. Space for tasting and winemaker dinners were limited, but otherwise it was a successful weekend. Hotels and restaurants were fully booked and sales were brisk.
Because much of my tasting was done at home before May 7, we attended only a few events. The first was at Abeja on Thursday afternoon where we went through Dan Wampfler and Amy Alvarez-Wampfler's new releases which are to be reviewed in the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines (on line May 25).
On Friday morning, we drove up to the end of Cottonwood Road to Reynvaan Family Vineyards, There, we tasted Matt Reynvaan's stellar MTR Productions 2017 Walla Walla Valley Syrah (20/20 points - full review to be in the June issue). Also highly impressive were the rich yet laser-like 2019 Grenache Blanc and opulent yet focused 2028 Foothills Reserve Syrah.
Friday evening, we went to the Valdemar Estates Winemaker Dinner with winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla. The food and wine pairings were spot on. Garbanzo Frisee Salad with the 2020 Roussanne and Duck, peas and asparagus with the Conde de Valdemar 2016 Las Seis Alajas Granciano from the Rioja district of SpaIn. The third course paired poached halibut, eggplant pisto and polenta with the 2019 Valdemar DuBrul Chardonnay, and fourth, Beef Bourguignon with spätzle with the 2018 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. The dessert course, Chocolate Mousse with strawberry compote, was accompanied by the 2019 Tapteil Vineyard Grenache. All exceptional wines, to be reviewed in the June issue.
More New French Wines
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Besides tasting wines for the Review of Washington Wines, we've been picking up some new French wines to try. Here are our latest discoveries.
2020 By Ott Côtes de Provence Rosé ($29 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This features a brilliant copper-pink color and enticing aromas of strawberry, pink peach, tangerine, red currants, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are fresh and vibrant, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and Provence hillside minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs, recurring tangerine peel and light spices on the dry finish. This evokes a Côte d'Azur afternoon. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Domaine de Salvard Cheverney ($19 The Thief) - This is 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Chardonnay from the upper Loire, near Blois. It displays a straw-gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, citrus, pear blossoms, jasmine and oyster shell. The flavors are bright and juicy, accented by grape skins and saline minerals. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest, followed by a crisp, persistently minerally finish. Terrific value. 18.5/20 points.
2018 William Fevre Chablis, "Champs Royaux" ($33.99 - Esquin) - From a respected grower-negotiant, this Chardonnay offers an iridescent greenish-gold color and aromas of green apple, quince, melon, citrus, apple blossoms, spring flowers and wet stone. The flavors are brisk and brightly fruited, with notes of grape and apple skins and calcareous minerals. The back picks up melon rind and lemon zest on the way to a bracing but unaustere crisp finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Château de Pizay Morgon ($19.99 - Esquin) - We stayed at the Château two nights in 2014. This Cru Beaujolais shows a brilliant purple-crimson color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, red currants, orange peel, red roses and sweet incense. The medium bodied flavors are deliciously fruit forward, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and granitic minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a nicely juiced moderate tannin and acid finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Domaine des Chers Saint-Amour, Vieilles Vignes ($25 - The Thief) - A lovely name and a charming Cru Beaujolais. It shows a ruby color and perfumed aromas of strawberries, cherries, wild currants, crushed roses, spring flowers and sweet incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with bright red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, orange pekoe tea and granitic minerals. The back reveals gently pressed berries, mocha and toffee and then gains intensity on the vigorous, juicy moderate tannin finis. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Daniel Bouland Morgon "Bellevue," Cuvée No. 3 ($40 - The Thief) - This is a rich, tasty Morgon from 40 year-old vines. It boasts a deep ruby color and intoxicating aromas of wild fruits - raspberries, bayberries, brambly currants - with scents of crushed roses, tobacco, sandalwood and incense. The flavors are ample yet deep and mouth filling, with layers of red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and rock minerals. On the back, the wine takes a lavish turn with sensations of pressed fruits, framboise, creme de cassis, charcoal stick and lanolin ("legs"), followed by a lengthy moderate tannin finish. 19/20 points.
We love the South Rhone wines of Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape. Being Grenache dominated (with some Syrah and Mourvèdre) the reds offer a lot of flavor interest.
2018 Crous Saint Martin Gigondas, "Les Espalieres" ($24.99 - Esquin) - This is a great value. Composed of 80% Grenache and 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, it offers a deep ruby color and effusive aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, rosebuds, tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are generous and mouth filling, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and minerals. The appeal continues on the back with pressed fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a slightly grainy moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Notre Dame des Pallières Gigondas ($29.99 - Esquin) - This is a super value. Deep ruby colored, it possesses seductive aromas of wild raspberries, blueberries, black currants, black roses, mulberry, tobacco, garrigue (lavender and herbs) and spiced incense. The flavors are full and generous, yet focused, with black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured with roasted berries and nuts, framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2017 Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas, "Aux Lieu Dits" ($38.99 - Esquin) - From eight vineyards ("lieu dits") this is an elegantly styled Gigondas with a deep ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberries, red currants, pomegranates, crushed roses, tobacco, lavender, violets and spiced incense. The flavors are deliciously generous yet substantial, with layers of red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and mountain minerals. On the back, the wine builds up with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and creme de cassis, all followed by a lingering spiced (nutmeg, clove) precise fruit acid and tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2017 Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf du Pape ($38.99 - Esquin) - Composed of 65% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault, this displays a deep ruby color and rich, smoky aromas of wild raspberries, black currants, black plums, crushed black roses, dark leaf tobacco, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors, as well, are dramatic, with thick dark fruits that are infused with licorice, dark chocolate, roasted coffee beans and mas earth and minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, mocha, framboise and creme de cassis and burnt charcoal, all pushing on into lengthy ripe sweetish tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2018 Château Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc ($50.99 - Esquin) - Most Châteauneuf du Pape is red, but a small amount of white wine is made. Composed of 45% Grenache Blanc, 30% Clairette, 20% Bourboulenc and 5% Roussanne, this displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and intriguing aromas of pear, peach, Casaba melon, grapefruit, pear blossoms, herbal tea, white lavender and green incense. The flavors, as well, are striking, with vivid white and yellow fruits that are invigorated by grape skins, peach stones and stony mas minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind and grapefruit peel along with a sprinkling of exotic herbs, followed by a lingering full finish. 19+/20 points.
Walla Walla Wineries on the Move
- Details
- Written by Rand Sealey
As the Walla Walla Valley Spring Release Weekend (May 7-9) approaches, there are some wineries that will not have tasting rooms open. Most were hoping to be open but have not been able to do so. Opening a wine tasting room requires negotiating bureaucratic hurdles. There is Washington State Liquor Board licensing, and a host of city and state regulations to meet. Locations and layouts have to be approved and operations standards have to be met. For instance, machines for washing glassware have to be inspected and tested. And all wine servers have to have MAST alcoholic beverage service permits. Meeting these requirements is time consuming, resulting in delays in getting tasting rooms opened.
One of the wineries that had to delay opening is Keith Johnson's Devium Wines. Keith has been making his wines at Sleight of Hand Cellars where he is assistant winemaker, but was wishing to have a location to offer tastings of his own wines. Yesterday, I received an email announcement that the new tasting space at the airport, 1460 F St., has been put on hold for another week or two, due to "a clerical error outside of our control" As "a nod to the bureaucratic process," the winery was announcing a sale.
Other wineries awaiting approval for new tasting rooms are the L'Ecole No 41 Heritage by L'Ecole Wine Bar at the corner of E. Rose and 2nd Ave. (formerly occupied by Tero Estates) and Vital Wines on N. 2nd (in the former Su Lei space).
One winery that has opened a new tasting room is Dillon Cellars, owned by Marc Dillon Leahy, which is now located on Rolling Hill Lane below Amavi and above Valdemar Estates in the facility formerly occupied by Waters.
Coming Up: Walla Walla Spring Release Weekend
- Details
- Written by Rand Sealey
This year, May 7 - 9, the Walla Walla Valley Spring Release Weekend will be back. Last year, that annual event was cancelled due to COVID-19. Now there will be some semblance - but not real - of normalcy. Tasting room capacities will be limited, at 50%. At some tasting rooms, walk-ins will be permitted, but some will require advance reservations. In any case, reservations are strongly recommended.
There will be Winemaker Dinners as well, but with limited seating. Check the winery websites for more information. Club members have or will be getting announcements. Food trucks will be parked at some wineries as well.
For tips on which wineries to visit and the Spring Releases, check the May (on line now) and the April issues of the Review of Washington Wines.
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