A Guide to French Wine Values
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- Written by Rand Sealey
When buying French wines, we are looking for value, wines that offer exceptional quality for the price. The Classified Growths of Bordeaux and the Premier and Grand Crus of Burgundy are expensive and are reserved for special occasions. But there are plenty of affordable French wines that offer high quality for their prices. Here are some such wines that we have tasted recently.
Bordeaux
While the Classified Grand Vins of the Medoc are costly. there are fine values from the Right Bank of the Gironde, from communes such as Fronsac, Saint Emilion and its satellites such as Montagne-Saint Emilion and Cotes de Francs. From south of Bordeaux, there is Graves and in the Haut Medoc, affordable Crus Bourgeois can be found. Recently, I purchased a bunch of Bordeaux wines from wine.com. Here are our finds.
2016 Clos du Roy, Fronsac ($15.99) - Fronsac is situated northeast of Pomerol. This version is comprised of 90% Merlot and 5% each of Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon. It shows a purplish ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, crushed roses, tobacco and incense. The medium full bodied flavors are akin to those of Pomerol, with thick, generous red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and minerals. The back picks up pressed fruits, roasted hazelnuts and kirsch, followed by a chewy moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.
2016 Château Marsau, Francs-Côtes de Bordeaux ($!9.99) - The Côtes de Francs is situated north of Saint Emilion. All Merlot, this wine offers an opaque purplish-ruby color and rich, almost sweet aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, crushed black roses, mulberry, tobacco and smoke. The flavors are thick and generous, with notes of licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and black earth. The saturation continues on the back with roasted berries and nuts, mocha, lanolin ("legs") and graphite, followed by a slightly grainy ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2016 Château La Bastienne, Montagne-Saint Emilion ($19.99) - As the appellation suggests, this comes from the mountain above Saint Emilion. This 100% Merlot displays a deep purplish ruby color and an intense nose of raspberries, cherries, plums, crushed roses, mulberry, sweet tobacco and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with generous, yet focused red and blue fruits that are infused with red licorice, cocoa powder, roasted coffee beans and hillside earth and minerals. On the back, the wine turns deliciously velvety, with sensations of pressed fruits, roasted nuts, mocha and pencil shavings, followed by an herb dusted moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2016 Château de Pressac, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé ($34.99) - This is a blend of 71% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% each of Carmenère and Malbec. Deep purple-crimson colored, this wine emits sensuous aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, cassis, rosebuds, pipe tobacco and spiced incense. The flavors are simultaneously lavish and muscular, with notes of licorice, chocolate, French roar and gravelly minerals. The penetration continues on the back with roasted berries, grilled nuts, mocha and graphite, followed by a grainy yet opulent ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2016 Château Fonroque, Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé ($39.99) - Composed of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, this wine exhibits a ruby-crimson color and a seductive nose of wild fruits - raspberries, old tree cherries and plums - with scents of rose petals, mulberry, sweet tobacco, sweet pea flowers and sweet incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with copious red fruits that are infused with licorice, bittersweet chocolate, French roast and calcareous minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates with sensations of macerated berries, roasted pecans, framboise and cerise liqueurs and graphite, followed by a lingering, decadent yet firm sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2015 Château Senéjac, Haut Medoc ($18.99) - A mix of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot, this shows a deep ruby color and a smoky nose of blackberry, cherry, plum, rosebuds, tobacco and spiced incense. The flavors are robust and direct, with notes of licorice, bittersweet chocolate, roasted coffee beans and earth. The intensity continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts and graphite, followed by a slightly grainy sweet-dry tannin finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18+/20 points.
2015 Château Ferran, Pessac-Léognan ($24.99) - Situated south of Bordeaux, the commune of Pessac-Léognan in Graves is famed for its Château Haut-Brion. This blend of 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot offers a deep ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of wild raspberries, old tree cherries, black currants, crushed black roses, mulberry, tobacco, sandalwood and incense. The flavors are thick and savory, with notes of black licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and calcareous earth and gravel. The penetration continues on the back with sensations of macerated fruits, grilled nut meats and pencil lead, followed by a rich sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
Rhône Valley
The Côtes du Rhône offer many fine values, especially in the southern part of the Valley. Here are some recently tasted ones that are especially recommended.
2018 Château d'Aqueria Tavel Rosé ($19.99 - wine.com) - New Review. Composed of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette, this is an extraordinary value. It shows a brilliant copper-pink color and enticing aromas of strawberries, pomegranates, currants, tangerine, rose petals, orange blossoms, lavender and spiced white incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with beautifully extracted red fruits that are accented by tangerine peel and mas minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and pomegranate seeds, followed by a pleasingly juicy, lightly spiced dry finish. Lynn: three stars (highest rating). 19/20 points.
2018 Château de Ségeriés Tavel Rosé ($22.99 - wine.com) - The 2017 Ségeries was one of our favorites last year. This vintage does not disappoint. Brilliant pink-rose colored, it possesses effusive aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, currant, crushed red roses, tangerine peel, lavender and spiced pink incense. The flavors are crisp and vivid, with notes of grape skins, pomegranate seeds and mas soil stony minerals. The resonance continues on the back with sensations of fraise and cassis liqueurs, recurring tangerine peel and light spices on the dry finish that is lifted by balanced fruit acids. Lynn: three stars. 19/20 points.
2017 Delas "Les Launes" Crozes-Hermitage ($21.99 - wine.com) - This 100% Syrah offers a lot of varietal purity for the price. Reviewed in the 11 September Blog. In retasting, it advanced from 18/20 to 18+/20 points.
2016 Les Pallières "Terasse du Diable" Gigondas ($36.99 - wine.com) - This Brunier-Kermit Lynch collaboration scored 19/20 points in the 14 August Blog.
2015 Domaine de la Charbonnière Vacqueyras ($29.99 - Esquin) - From near Gigondas this predominately Grenache red offers a lot for the price. Reviewed in the 14 Blog - 18.5/20 points.
Beaujolais
The Crus of Beaujolais come from the best communes in the region. Produced from the Gamay grape, they are pleasingly fruited and very enjoyable to drink. Here are four of our favorites, all from the exceptional 2017 vintage.
2017 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon, "Les Charmes" ($23.99 - wine.com) - First reviewed in the 14 May Blog, we retasted this wine recently and found it absolutely charming, with lovely aromas and fresh, vibrant fruit flavors that resonate from beginning to end. 18.5+/20 points.
2017 La Soeur Cadette Chénas ($26.99 - wine.com) - This wine is charming yet vigorous, with deep, generous flavors. We reordered more of this. 18.5+/20 points.
2017 Domaine Piron & Lameloise Moulin-a-Vent ($23.99 - wine.com) - The commune of Moulin-à-Vent produces some of the fullest bodied Beaujolais. This is a fine example. Reviewed 25 August - 18.5/20 points.
2017 La Tour du Fief Saint-Amour ($24.99 - wine.com) - Saint-Amour ("Holy Love") is a beautiful name and the wine is too. Reviewed 25 August - 18.5/20 points.
Other French Wines
Other regions of France produce excellent values, especially Alsace, the Lore Valley and the Southwest. Here are a few that we've tried recently.
2017 Trimbach Riesling, Vin d'Alsace ($25 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Trimbach is a respected producer in Ribeauvillé. Made in a dry style, this shows a brilliant gold color and floral aromas of pear, white peach, citrus, pear tree blossoms, white lilac and wet stone. The flavors are bright and precise, with notes of peach stone, grape skin and flinty minerals. The back picks up poor William and pêche liqueurs on the way to a persistently minerally finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Albert Mann Gewurztraminer, Vin d'Alsace ($24 - The Thief) - Owned by the Barthlemé, this Domaine is located in Wettolsheim in the heart of the Vosges. This wine displays a brilliant gold color and rich aromas of pear, peach, apricot, a hint of papaya, pear blossoms, butternut, clover, anise and spiced white incense. The flavors are rich and spicy ("gewurz") yet restrained, with notes of licorice, semi dried fruits and stony minerals. The back picks up poire William and pêche liqueurs, lanolin ("legs") and roasted nuts followed by an initially sweet, then dry spiced finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Domaine Paul Thomas Sancerre, "Les Comtesses" ($29.99 - wine.com) - Reviewed 31 May, this was recently retasted. It shows an exceptional expression of upper Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc with a brilliant lemon-gold color and a perfumed nose of pear, peach, lime, gooseberry, white flowers and white smoke. The flavors are exceedingly precise, with notes of grape and pear skins and saline minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and quince preserves, followed by a long, steely but finely fruited dry finish. 19/20 points.
2017 Domaine Paul Thomas Sancerre Rouge, Chavignol ($25.99 - wine.com) - Red Sancerre is made from the Pinot Noir grape and Chavignol is the best commune. Brick red colored, this possesses lovely, perfumed aromas of strawberry, cherry, currant, red rose petals, sweet pea flowers, orange peel, and whiffs of incense. The flavors are medium bodied and charming but substantial, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder and alluvial minerals. The back picks up gently pressed fruits, fraise and cerise liqueurs and toasted nuts, followed by a pleasing soft tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2015 Domaine de la Lande Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil ($27 - The Thief) - Produced from Cabernet Franc, this Loire red shows a deep ruby color and engaging aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, crushed roses, purple lilac, tobacco leaf and sage. The medium full-bodied flavors mirror the aromatics with notes of red licorice, cocoa, black tea and alluvial minerals. On the back, the wine turns bright and juicy, with sensations of pressed fruits, framboise and cerise liqueurs and soft pencil lead, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. A vin de plaisir. 18.5/20 points.
2015 Clos Siguier Cahors, "Les Camille," Vieilles Vignes ($23 - The Thief) - This Malbec from the Lot Valley in southwest France offers a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, blueberry, cherry and plum with scents of crushed roses, mulberry, tobacco and incense. The flavors are generous yet substantial, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and calcareous minerals. The back picks up macerated berries, roasted nuts, framboise and kirsch liqueurs and plum, preserves, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.
Harvest 2019 Update
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- Written by Rand Sealey
As of this writing (10 am, Wednesday, September 18) it is sunny with some clouds on the horizon here in Walla Walla. It has cooled down considerably since the beginning of the month. The forecast for the rest of the month is for highs in the mid 70's, cooling down to the 60's at the end of the month. These temperatures are slightly below average for this time of year, indicating a slowing down of the maturation of the grapes. Not much rain is forecast which should help. Growers are looking at picking to continue well into October.
Harvest is under way here and around the Northwest. On the warmer Red Mountain, Syrah has been picked and harvesting Cabernet is getting under way. Much of the white grapes have been picked. Woodward Canyon has brought in its Estate and Celilo Chardonnay. Sleight of Hand has brought in French Creek Chardonnay and Stoney Vine Syrah. On Horse Heaven Hills, Milo May reports "Discovery vineyard Cab hanging to more fully develop the flavors that will make this vintage a great one." One vineyard climatologist has called the 2019 harvest "slow and steady." More later!
Still More French Wines
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- Written by Rand Sealey
When we're not drinking Washington wines, we often have French ones. When I started Esquin Wine Merchants in 1969, most of the wines we had were French. French wines are still one of our great loves. Here are our latest finds.
Rosé wine season is still not over yet. The French drink rosés year around and so do we. Here are a couple of winners.
2018 Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay Rosé ($27.99 - wine.com) - Marsannay is situated at the north end of the Côte de Nuits, just past Fixin. Made from Pinot Noir, this shows a brilliant pink color and lovely aromas of strawberry, red currant, tangerine, pink rose petals, pink lilac and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are captivating, with gently pressed fruits that are imbued with light grape skins and granitic minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel, followed buy a dry, juicy finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5+/20 points.
2018 Domaine de la Modorée Tavel Rosé , "La Dame Rousse" ($39.99 - wine.com) - This is the best Tavel Rosé we've tasted so far. Composed of 60% Grenache and 20% each of Cinsaiult and Syrah, it exhibits a beautiful copper-pink color and seductive aromas of raspberry, currant, pomegranate and orange peel with scents of pink roses, lavender, Provençal herbs and spiced pink incense. The flavors are as alluring as the aromas, with vivid, perfectly extracted red fruits that are imbued with grape skins, pomegranate seeds and mas soil minerals. The back reveals framboise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel on the lingering precisely balanced dry finish. Lynn gives this three stars (highest rating): "Quinessential Tavel Rosé." 19.5/20 points.
2017 Château Fortia Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc ($44.99 - Esquin) - Most of the wine of Châteauneuf du Pape is red, but a small amount of white is produced. Produced from 70% Roussanne, 20% Clairette and 10% Grenache Blanc, this one shows a brilliant gold color and intense aromas of pear, peach, apricot, papaya, orange peel with scents of pear blossoms, honeysuckle, lemon verbena and white incense. The flavors are full bodied for a white, with layers of juicy white and yellow fruits that are infused with pear skin, apricot stone and mas cobblestone minerals. The resonance continues on the back with sensations of poire William and Grand Marnier liqueurs and touches of hazelnut and crème fraiche on lingering dry finish. I took this to a dinner party a few days ago and everyone was wowed by it. 19+/20 points.
2016 Brotte Châteauneuf du Pape, "Hautes de Barville" ($37.99 -Esquin) - This is a good buy in CdP. It shows a deep ruby-crimson color and rich, smoky aromas of raspberry, cherry and black currant with scents of black roses, mulberry, tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are thick and generous, yet focused, with black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and minerals. The chewy textured back picks up roasted berries and nuts, mocha, grilled meats and charcoal, followed by a lingering ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2017 Delas Crozes-Hermitage, "Les Launes" ($21.99 - wine.com) - This is a tasty young North Rhone Syrah. It shows a purplish-ruby color and rich aromas of black cherry, black currant, mulberry, tobacco, lavender and incense. The robust flavors are true to variety and direct, with notes of black licorice, dark cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. The intensity continues on the back with macerated berries, grilled nut meats and burnt charcoal, followed by a spiced sweet-dry tannin finish. Excellent value. 18/20 points.
2016 Domaine Combier Crozes-Hermitage ($35.99 - wine.com) - This is a step up qualitatively from the above wine. It offers a deep purplish-ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberries, plums, black currants, crushed roses, mulberry, sweet tobacco, lavender, sage, anise and spiced incense. The medium full bodied flavors show terrific Syrah purity, with fleshy black and blue fruit that are infused with licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and earth. The wine thickens on the back with sensations of roasted berries and nuts, mocha, framboise and cassis liqueurs, grilled meats and charcoal, followed by a satisfying ripe tannin finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay ($13.99 - Safeway) - From the birthplace of Chardonnay, this shows a brilliant gold color and pleasing aromas of apple, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. Unencumbered by oak, the flavors are bright and true to variety, with notes of grape skin, peach stone and granitic minerals. The back picks up touches of pêche liqueur, hazelnut and creme fraiche on the way to a crisp finish. 18/20 points.
2017 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages ($13.99 - Safeway) - This is an amiable Beaujolais. It displays a purplish ruby color and attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry, currant, red roses, mulberry and whiffs of spiced incense. The medium bodied flavors are pleasingly plump, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, and a bit of earth. The back reveals fraise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a savory, nicely fruited soft tannin finish. 18/20 points.
2017 Lapierre + Pacalet "Cousins" Juliénas ($31.99 -wine.com) - From one of the top Crus Beaujolais, this wine offers a deep ruby color and expressive aromas of fraises de bois, black currants, black plums, crushed red roses, mulberry, tobacco leaf, orange peel and incense. The flavors, as well, are dramatic, with robust black and blue fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, mocha, recurring orange peel and pencil, lead, followed by a smooth moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
Prepping for Fall Release in Walla Walla
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- Written by Rand Sealey
For the past and next couple of weeks, I have been and will be visiting wineries in the Walla Walla Valley to get previews of their Fall releases. These wines will be reviewed in the October issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
On the morning of Saturday, August 24, we attended the opening of JJ and Kelly Menozzi's new Aluvé tasting room and production facility on Mill Creek Road where we tasted a lovely 2018 Estate Chardonnay and 2017 Estate Red and Petit Verdot. On the way back, we stopped at àMaurice also on Mill Creek Road to taste the winery's 2018 Gamache and Estate Viogniers along with 2017 Boushey and 29016 Estate Syrahs. At Walla Walla Vintners, we tasted the 2017 Dwelley Dolcetto and 2016 Sagemoor Cabernet. In the afternoon, we went to the Armstrong Family tasting room on Main Street for the 2017 Viognier and 2016 reds. Then we headed south to Balboa where we previewed the 2016 Sangio, 2015 Caremenère, 2016 Summit View Grenache and 2014 Beresan Yellow Jacket Syrah.
Yesterday, September 3, I went to Vital Wines and Brook & Bull to pick up Ashley Trout's new releases: 2017 Vital Chardonnay and the Vital and Brook & Bull 2017 reds. They are mighty tasty wines. Today, I will go to Rôtie Cellars to taste the 2017 Little g Grenache, dre Mourvèdre and Homage Rhone style blend. Tomorrow, I have an appointment to visit Saviah Cellars for a preview of the Fall Releases. On Friday, I will visit Va Piano and Northstar and on Saturday, Castillo de Feliciana and Tertulia.
Watch for the October issue of the Review of Washington Wines which goes on line September 25.
More Wines from France, Italy and California
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- Written by Rand Sealey
During the past couple of weeks, we've been drinking some other wines in addition to those from Washington State. Here are my notes.
French Wines
2018 Châteaux Pradeaux Bandol Rosé ($36 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - This is one of the deepest colored Bandol Rosés I've seen - deep copper. The aromas are intriguing: fraises de bois, blood orange, pomegranate, orange blossoms, herbes de Provence and spiced incense. The flavors are deep and vivid, marked by grape skins, orange tea and minerals. The back reveals pressed fruits, fraise liqueur, recurring orange peel, dried pomegranate seeds and touches of lanolin and hazelnuts, followed by a lingering lightly spiced dry finish. Lynn gives this three out of three stars. 19/20 points.
Here are three more Cru Beaujolais from the exceptional 2017 vintage.
2017 La Tour du Fief Saint Amour ($24.99 - wine.com) - Purplish crimson colored, this emits seductive aromas of strawberries raspberries, currants, wild roses, sweet pea flowers, violets and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet substantial, with vivid red fruits dancing on the palate, along with red licorice, cocoa, black tea and granitic minerals. The back reveals gently pressed berries and fraise and cassis liqueurs , followed by a pleasingly juiced moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Domaine Piron & Lameloise Moulin-a-Vent ($23.99 - wine.com) - This one features a ruby-crimson color and lovely perfumed aromas of raspberries, cherries, currants, crushed roses, violets and incense. The flavors are bright and vivacious, with mouth filling red fruits that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and schist minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, roasted nuts, and framboise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a pleasing juicy slightly grainy soft tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Daniel Boulard Côte de Brouilly, "Cuvée Melanie" ($36 - The Thief) - This wine exhibits a deep purplish ruby color and seductive aromas of fraises de bois, cerises, cassis, wild roses, violets and oriental incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with delicious red fruits that are endowed with licorice, cocoa powder, French roast and granitic minerals. The pleasure continues on the back with pressed fruits, fraise and cerise liqueurs, kirsch and soft pencil lead, followed by a juicy yet chewy moderate tannin finish. As a vin de plaisir, this gets a plus. 18.5+/20 points.
Italian Wines
2016 G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso ($16.99 - Esquin) - The Langhe is the region surrounding Barolo and Barbaresco. The back label states this is "sourced from native vines." It shows a ruby color and ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, red roses, tobacco, dried orange peel and incense. The flavors are bright and generous, with notes of red licorice, cola, black tea and Langhe hillside earth. The back palate is direct and chewy, with pressed berries, roasted hazelnuts and dried cherries, followed buy a juicy moderate tannin and acid finish. 18/20 points.
2016 M. Mareno Dolcetto d'Alba ($19.99 - Esquin) - This Piedmont wine shows a deep purplish-ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, rosebuds, purple lilac and violets. The flavors are mouth filling, brimming with vivid red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, Toblerone chocolate and Alban hills minerals. The chewy textured back picks up pressed berries, and cherry liqueur on the way to a juicy, satisfying finish. 18/20 points.
2017 Castellare de Castellino Chianti Classico ($25 - The Thief) - This is an amiable young Sangiovese. It shows a ruby-garnet color and a rich, smoky nose of raspberries, cherries, currants, crushed roses, mulberry, tobacco, orange peel and incense. The medium bodied flavors mirror the aromatics with ample yet focused red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, chocolate, Italian roast and hillside minerals. The back reveals roasted berries and nuts, mocha, recurring orange peel, and pencil lead, followed by a sweet-dry tannin finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points.
2015 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale ($23.99 - Safeway) - Ruby-garnet colored, this wine possesses rich aromas of raspberries, cherries, currants, crushed roses, tobacco leaf, orange peel, rosemary and wood smoke. The flavors are generous and fleshy, yet focused, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, black tea and minerals. The back pick up roasted fruits and nuts and semi-dried cherries and recurring orange peel, followed buy a dryish ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2014 Tascante Novello Mascalese "Ghia Nero," Sicilia - This was given to us by a friend. This vintage shows a ruby-garnet color and intriguing aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, dried orange peel, tobacco and wood smoke. The medium-full bodied flavors, as well, are distinctive, with semi dried fruits that are intermixed with licorice, roasted coffee beans and Sicilian mountain minerals. The back picks up roasted berries and nuts, recurring orange peel and charcoal, followed by a dry yet finely fruited finish. The 2016 vintage is available from wine.com for $24.99. 18.5/20 points.
Two Iconic California Wineries from the 'Eighties
Back in the mid 1980's, when I owned Esquin Wine Merchants, we witnessed the debut of many California wineries. Among these were Ferrari-Carano in Sonoma and Frog's Leap in the Napa Valley which became California Icons. Esquin was the first store in Seattle to carry their wines. I ran across these two producers at Safeway and I bought these two wines to see what they are up to today.
2018 Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc, Sonoma County ($14.99 - Safeway) - This Sauvignon Blanc is called Fume Blanc because it is made in an Upper Loire style like a Pouilly-Fume. This shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and fresh aromas of pear, white peach, Crenshaw melon and grapefruit, with scents of apple blossoms, lemon verbena and white incense. The flavors are bright and vibrant, with white and yellow fruits that are accented by pear skin, peach stone and saline minerals. The back picks up melon rind and grapefruit peel on the way to a crisp, resonant finish. Excellent value. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Frog's Leap Zinfandel, Napa Valley ($29.99 - Safeway) - This Zin features a ruby color and ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, brambles, rosebuds, and spiced wood smoke. The flavors are rich and generous, yet focused, with bright red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and Napa dusty earth. The back reveals macerated berries, kirsch, charcoal and spices (nutmeg, clove) followed by a moderate (13.5%) alcohol and smooth tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
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