We Love Grenache
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- Written by Rand Sealey
In the next issue of the Review of Washington Wines (on line Monday, August 25) there will be six Grenache wines. Grenache is a variety that is increasing in popularity. Here's a bit more about that grape.
Grenache is believed to have originated in Aragon in the twelfth century. The Spanish name is Garnacha. Over the centuries, the grape spread to Sardinia and Southern Italy which were under the rule of the Kingdom of Aragon, and then to the Langeuedoc-Roussillon, South Rhone and Provence regions of France where it was called Grenache.
Grenache is especially suited to Mediterranean climates and terroir, benefiting from the warm sun and rocky soils. The wines can be at the same time velvety and muscular. Transposed to America, the grape does well in the warm, terroir-driven parts of California and Washington.
We especially like Grenache because it fits Northwest cuisine especially well. We think it makes a better companion to salmon or chicken than Pinot Noir., And yet it can be robust enough for beef and lamb.
Here are some noteworthy producers of Washington Grenache.
The Walls - "Concrete Mama" - 2016 vintage reviewed December 2018.
Rotie Cellars - Southern Blend (70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah) - 2017 reviewed April 2019. "Little g" Grenache - 2016 reviewed October 2018.
Gramercy Cellars - "The Third Man" (75% Grenache, 13% Syrah, 12% Mourvèdre) - 2016 reviewed May 2019.
Ocelli Cellars - This winery makes only Grenache, 100% varietal. - The 2014s to be reviewed in the September issue.
Isenhower Cellars - "Rara Avis" - 2016 reviewed April 2019.
Castillo de Feliciana - This Spanish varietal specialist calls it Garnacha.
Below are some Spanish, Sardinian and French Grenache wines tasted recently.
2016 Las Rocas Garnacha, Calatayud ($12.99 - Safeway) - From a region in southwest Catalonia, this shows a ruby color and smoky aromas of black cherry, black currant, plum, black roses, tobacco, Spanish lavender and incense. The flavors are intense and direct, with black and blue fruits intermixed with licorice, coffee beans and minerals. The back picks up roasted berries and nuts and burnt charcoal, followed by a ripe, chewy dryish tannin finish. Excellent value. 18/20 points.
2016 Terroir Históric Priorat ($36 - The Thief) - Priorat is situated in Aragon in the district of Zaragosa. This Garnacha is deep ruby colored and emits intoxicating aromas of raspberries, black currants, mulberries, black roses, tobacco, Spanish lavender, tarragon and wood smoke. The flavors mirror the aromatics with generous yet deep and taut red and black fruits that are infused with licorice, bittersweet chocolate, chicory coffee and fractured rock minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts, fruit liqueurs and pulverized charcoal, followed by a chewy sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2016 Argiolas "Costera" Cannonau de Sardegna ($25 - The Thief) - The Sardinians claim the Garnacha grape (which they call Cannonau) originated on their island. But it is most likely from Aragon. This displays a deep ruby color and engaging aromas of raspberry, black cherry, plum, black roses, mulberry, lavender and incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet substantial, with notes of licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and stony minerals. The back picks up macerated fruits, roasted hazelnuts and charcoal, followed by a satisfying moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.
2016 Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas, Vieilles Vignes, "La Louisiane" ($39.99 - wine.com) - From 80% Grenache planted in 1942, plus Mourvèdre and Cinsault, this boasts a semi opaque ruby-crimson color and intoxicating aromas of wild raspberries and strawberries, black currants, lavender, forest carpet, violets and white pepper. The flavors are simultaneously muscular and velvety, with layers of red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. The back reveals macerated fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs, charcoal and lanolin ("legs"), followed by a lingering, grainy ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.
See last week's Review Blog for South Rhone wines previously tasted.
More 2017 Beaujolais and 2016 and 2015 Rhone Wines
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- Written by Rand Sealey
This summer, we have been doing more exploring of French wines, in particular those from Beaujolais and the Rhone Valley. Here are our notes and scores.
Beaujolais Wines
Among our favorite wines for frequent enjoyment are those from Beaujolais, especially the Crus that come from the best communes. The 2017 vintage is exceptional, close in quality to 2015 (the 2016 vintage is good, but not stellar).
2017 Domaine des Rosiers Moulin-a-Vent ($19.99 - wine.com) - Distributed by Georges Duboeuf, this offers a ruby color and sultry aromas of strawberries, raspberries, black currants, roses, sweet tobacco, orange peel and incense. The flavors are generous, yet deep, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and granitic minerals. The back picks up macerated berries, framboise, toffee and burnt toast, followed by a smooth tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 La Soeur Cadette Chénas ($26.99 - wine.com) - This is one of our favorites and I ordered more. It displays a deep purplish ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberry, cherry, sweet currants, wild roses, sweet pea flowers, violets and whiffs of incense. The flavors are charming yet vigorous, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea, and granitic minerals. The back picks up framboise and cassis liqueurs and toffee, followed by a soft tannin finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5+/20 points.
2017 Domaine Chignard Fleurie, "Les Moriers" ($26.99 - wine.com) - Chignard is another of our favorite producers. This vintage shows a brick red color and attractive aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries and red currants, with scents of red roses, summer flowers and whiffs of wood smoke. The medium bodied flavors are deliciously supple and ample, yet focused, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and limestone minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates with sensations of pressed berries, fraise and framboise liqueurs and a bit of toast, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
For more 2017 Beaujolais, see the Review Blog of 14 May.
South Rhone Valley Wines
The following wines come from Châteauneuf du Pape and the nearby communes of Vacqueyras and Gigondas. In this region, the Grenache grape is predominant, along with some Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Syrah.
2016 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape ($39.99 - wine.com) - This wine displays a deep ruby-crimson color and seductive aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, currant, mulberry, lavender, brambles, white pepper and oriental incense. On the palate, the flavors are thick and savory, marked by licorice, creme de cacao, French roast and cobblestone minerals. The saturation continues on the back with sensations of macerated berries, roasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs and kidskin, followed by a rich, long spiced (nutmeg, clove) ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2015 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape, Vieilles Vignes, "Chante le Merle" ($74.99 - Esquin) - Deep ruby colored, this wine possesses an intoxicating nose of wild fruits - fraises de bois, framboise, cassis - with scents of crushed roses, pipe tobacco, garrigue, grilled meats, olive tapenade and smoldering oriental incense. The flavors are thick, almost massive, yet velvety, infused with black licorice, extra dark cocoa, French roast and mas cobblestone minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated berries, grilled nuts, kidskin and charcoal. The alcohol registers at 15.3% but is tempered by vivid fruit acids on the lengthy, grainy ripe tannin finish. As a superb example of old vine CdP, this gets 19.5/20 points.
2016 Clos de L'Oratoire des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape ($49.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 5% each of Mourvède and Cinsault, this wine exhibits a semi opaque ruby color and an intoxicating nose of wild strawberries, raspberries, black currants, tobacco, brambles, lavender, violets, pepper and spiced incense. The flavors are fabulously rich and concentrated, with layers of red fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, French roast and mas minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with sensations of macerated berries, roasted nuts, mocha and charcoal, followed by a lengthy ripe tannin finish. 19+/20 points.
2015 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf du Pape ($35 - Last Bottle) - Brick red colored, this emits rich, smoky aromas of raspberries, pomegranates, red currants, crushed roses, tobacco, lavender, violets and incense. The flavors are lavish yet forceful, with red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa powder, French roast and mas minerals. On the back, the wine is simultaneously velvety and muscular, with macerated berries, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs and dried pomegranate sees, followed by a lingering ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2015 Domaine de la Charbonnière Vacqueyras ($29.99 - Esquin) - This wine presents a ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of raspberries, currants, mulberry, rosebuds, tobacco, brambles, lavender and incense. The flavors are ample, yet focused, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and granitic minerals. The wine thickens a bit on the back with pressed berries, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs and charcoal, and then turns fleshy and savory on the satisfying finish. 18.5/20 points.
2015 Domaine de Charbonnière Châteauneuf du Pape ($38.99 - Esquin) - Brick red colored, this wine emits rich aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, currants, crushed roses, mulberry, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors are thick an lavish, loaded with licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and mas earth. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with sensations of roasted berries and nuts, mocha, framboise and cassis liqueurs and burnt charcoal followed by a warm (15% alcohol) but not hot lingering finish. 19/20 points.
2016 Alain Jaume Gigondas, "Terrasses de Montmirial" ($34.99 - wine.com) - Semi opaque ruby colored, this possesses a rich, smoky nose of wild raspberries, black currants, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with thick, lavish dark fruits that are infused with licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and Montmirial granitic minerals. The intensity continues on the back with sensations of macerated fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs, and touches of leather and burnt charcoal, followed by a lasting ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2016 Les Pallières Gigondas, "Terrasse du Diable" ($36.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 90% Grenache with 5% each of Mourvèdre and Clairette, this offers a deep ruby color and an intoxicating nose of blackberry, black currant, plum, black roses, mulberry, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors are robust yet lavish, bathed in dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cacao, French roast and minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated berries, grilled nuts and meats and pulverized charcoal, followed by a lengthy ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.
Most Châteauneuf du Pape wine is red, but a small amount of white wine is produced. Here is an outstanding example.
2016 Vignobles Brunel Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc, "Les Cailloux" ($51.99 - wine.com) - Composed of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, this exhibits a brilliant gold color and rich aromas of pear, apricot, papaya, orange peel, pear tree blossoms, honeysuckle, lemon verbena and white incense. The flavors are full bodied for a white, with thick, juicy white and yellow fruits that are infused with apricot stone, pear and grape skins and distinct cobblestone minerals. The intensity continues on the back with poire William and Grand Marnier liqueurs, and touches of hazelnut and crème francie, followed by a lingering, persistently minerally finish. 19+/20 points.
Summer News from Walla Walla
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Here's some the recent developments in the Walla Walla Valley
Heat Wave in the Valley
This past week, and up to today, August 8, temperature highs have been around 100 degrees. When temperatures reach 95 or so (varying by grape variety) photosynthesis and grape maturing shuts down. Fortunately, temperatures will be moderating tomorrow and through next week into the eighties. This will enable the vines to mature the grapes normally and veraison (when grapes start to turn color) is expected to begin at the end of the month.
Jan Roskelley Retires from Tero Estates
On July 4 - Freedom Day - Jan Roskelley retired as events director at Tero Estates, a job she has held for twelve years. What she has done is truly special and puts an imprint on the winery. But the time came to hang it up. In July, she and Doug took the "Charbys," the Anartolian "pups" on a trip to Texas and Nebraska in their motorhome bus. Upon retuning, they have been clearing the basement winery B & B. Jan will always continue to amaze.
Jon Meuret Retires from Maison Bleue
July also saw another retirement. Jon and Amy Meuret moved to Overland Park, a suburb of Kansas City, on the Kansas side of the river. They had already sold the winery to the Pambrun winery and decided to make a change and move back to Kansas. An avid bicyclist, Jon is embarking on a new career in sports training. Our best to both.
New in Walla Walla: Dillon Cellars
Dillon Cellars, located on Piper Avenue in the "Incubators" near the airport, opened recently in the space previously occupied by Walla Faces. The owner-winemaker is Marc Dillon Leahy, who has also taken over as winemaker at Maison Bleue (see above). I recently visited the winery and tasted the current releases with Marc. The wines - Syrah, Mourvèdre / Syrah and Merlot - were highly impressive, with scores of 19/20 points across the board. They will be reviewed in the September issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
That's it for now! Next week, there will be reviews of more French wines from Burgundy and the Rhone Valley.
Top International Rosés and Best Buys
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- Written by Rand Sealey
This is our annual Rosé wine roundup, summarizing the 2018 vintage for rosés from Europe and the U.S. This list is comprised of the top wines and the best buys. This year, we tasted over 60 Rosés and these are the the most highly recommended.
Rosés Scoring 19/20 Points
2018 DeLille Cellars Rosé, Columbia Valley ($32) - A nicely balanced Provence-style blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Reviewed in the 24 July Blog. Lynn: three stars (highest rating).
2018 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé ($22.99 - Esquin) - The top scoring Bandol. Lynn gave it three stars. Review Blog 24 July.
2018 Les Hauts du Vallon Bandol Rosé ($21.99 - wine.com) - 45% Mourvèdre, 45% Grenache, 10% Cinsault. Scored 18.5+/20 on 24 July, 19/20 points last tasted. Lynn three stars.
2018 Isabelle Garrault Sancerre Rose "Les Grands Monts" ($25,99 - wine.com) - From the Upper Loire and made from Pinot Noir, this shows uncommon elegance for a Rosé. 16 April Blog.
2018 DaMa Rosé of Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley ($25) - The nicest Cabernet Franc Rosé we tasted. - Review of Washington Wines July issue.
2018 Rotie Cellars Rosé Wine, Washington State ($22) - This combination of 70% Mourvèdre and 15% each of Syrah and Grenache is a Bandol look-alike. Reviewed April.
Best Buys: Rosés Scoring 18.5/20 Points for $20 or Less
2018 Chateau Ste. Michelle Rosé, Columbia Valley ($8.99 - Safeway) - This scored 18+/20 points but is a steal at $8.99. Reviewed May.
2018 Maryhill Rose of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley ($13.99 - Safeway) - The nicest Rosé from this variety we tasted. Reviewed 24 July Blog.
2018 College Cellars Grenache Rosé ($18) - This effervescent Rosé is delicious and a super buy. Lynn three stars. June issue.
2018 Saviah Cellars Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, Dugger Creek Vineyard ($18) - A nicely fruited 60% Sangiovese, 40% Barbera combination. April issue.
2018 Smoky Rose Pinot Noir Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($20) From the Breezy Slope Vineyard, with nice extraction (8 hours) - May issue
2018 SMAK Wines Spring Sangiovese Rosé ($18) - Fiona Mak makes only Rosé, for year around. - March Review issue.
2018 SMAK Wines Summer Pinot Gris Rosé ($18) - From Pinot Gris grapes with extra hang time to produce a copper colored Rosé. March issue.
2018 SMAK Wines Fall / Winter Syrah Rosé ($18) Shows nice depth and balance. To be reviewed in the September issue.
2018 Willamette Valley Vineyards "Whole Cluster" Pinot Noir Rosé ($16.99 - Safeway) - The best buy in Oregon Rosé. 14 May Blog.
2018 Château de Manissy Tavel Rosé ($18.99 - Esquin) - A lot of delicious fruit and character. Lynn: three stars. 24 July Blog.
2018 Paul Jaboulet "Parallele 45" Cotes du Rhone Rosé ($15.99 - wine.com) - A super buy. Lots of flavor for the price. 16 April Blog.
2018 Fleur de Mer Côtes de Provence Rosé ($17.99 - Safeway) - Deliciously fresh and lively with judicious extraction. 16 April Blog.
2018 Triennes Rosé Mediterannée ($17.99 - wine.com) - Lively and vivacious, this is highly charming. Cinsault based. 14 May Blog.
2018 AIX Coteaux D'Aix in Provence Rosé ($18.99 - Safeway) - Crisp and lively, refreshing. 14 May Blog.
More International Rosés
- Details
- Written by Rand Sealey
As we go into mid-summer, we have sampled more rosé wines from France and America. Here are our latest discoveries.
American Rosés
2018 Basel Cellars "2901" Estate Rose of Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($23) - 2901 Old Milton Highway its the winery's address. From the Double River Vineyard, this shows a copper-pink color and aromas of raspberry, cranberry, tangerine and cassis, with scents of pink roses, lilac and pink incense. The flavors are more extracted than usual for a rosé (whole cluster pressed) with notes of grape skin, dried cranberries and minerals. The back picks up framboise and cassis liqueurs and tangerine peel, followed by a finely fruited dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Maryhill Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley ($13.99 - Safeway) - This is one of the nicest Sangio rosés we've run across. Brilliant pink-rose colored, it possesses attractive aromas of strawberries, cherries, red currants, pink roses, pink lilac and pink incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing with bright red fruits that are accented by grape skin, strawberry and cherry liqueurs and minerals, followed by a balanced dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Januik-Novelty Hill "Spring Run" Rosé, Columbia Valley, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($18) - This 90% Syrah, 7% Grenache, 3% Mourvèdre combination displays a brilliant pink color and aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, red currant, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are nicely extracted, with tasty red fruits that are accented by grape skin, pomegranate skis and kirsch, followed by a lightly spiced moderate acid finish. 18+/20 points.
2018 DeLille Cellars Rosé, Columbia Valley ($32) - Composed of 52% Grenache, 39% Mourvèdre and 9% Cinsault, this Rosé displays a light copper-pink color and a lovely nose of strawberry, red currant, pomegranate, watermelon, wild roses, lavender and whiffs of spiced incense. The flavors are exquisitely extracted, with notes of grape skins, pomegranate seeds and minerals. The resonance continues on the back with sensations of fraise and cassis liqueurs and melon rind, followed by a lengthy dry finish. 19/20 points. Lynn: three stars (highest rating).
2018 La Crema Pinot Noir Rosé, Monterey ($15.99 - Safeway) - I thought I'd try a California Rosé and picked up this one at Safeway. It shows a light salmon color and attractive aromas of Marion berry, Rainer cherry, tangerine, cherry blossoms and white incense. The flavors are crisped lively, with notes of grape skin, gently pressed berries, tangerine peel and sassafras tea, followed a juicy finish. 18/20 points.
French Rosés
2018 Domaine de Pallus Chinon "Messanges Rosé," Cabernet Franc ($19.99 - wine.com) - This Loire Valley Rosé offers a light copper color and intriguing aromas of Marion berry, white cherry, red currant, pink roses and pink incense. The flavors are nicely extracted, with notes of grape skin, pink grapefruit and Loire river minerals. The wine gains texture on the back with sensations of kirsch and cassis liqueurs , followed by a dry, juicy finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Briotte "Esprit Barville" Côtes du Rhone Rose ($13.99 - Esquin) - This shows a light salmon color and aromas of raspberry, currant, pomegrate, tangerine peel, red roses and pink smoke. The flavors are light and fresh, yet mouth watering, with notes of gently squeezed fruits and pomegranate seeds, followed by a lightly spiced dry finish. 18/20 points.
2018 Château de Manissy Tavel Rosé ($15,99 - Esquin) - Copper-pink colored, this rosé emits intriguing aromas of strawberries, currants, tangerine, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are well extracted and balanced, with notes of grape skin, fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a nicely fruited dry finish. At $15.99 this a steal of a deal. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Domaine Pelaquie Tavel Rosé ($18.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 60% Grenache and 20% each of Mourvèdre and Cinsault, this shows a brilliant rose-pink color and enticing aromas of strawberry, cherry, pomegranate, red currants, pink roses, lavender and pink incense. The flavors are ripe and lively, with nicely extracted fruits along with stony mas minerals. The wine enlivens further on the back with cerise and cassis liqueurs and pomegranate seeds followed by a dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Les Hauts du Vallon Bandol Rosé ($21.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 45% Mourvèdre, 45% Grenache and 10% Cinsault, this rose offers a light copper color and intriguing aromas of wild strawberries, pink cherries, melon and tangerine with scents of cherry blossoms, wild flowers and pink incense. The flavors are nicely extracted, with notes of grape skin, melon rind and calcareous minerals. The back picks up fraise liqueur and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a pleasing juicy dry finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2018 Les Adrets Bandol Rosé ($20.99 - Esquin) - Light pink-peach colored, this rosé possesses an attractive nose of wild strawberries, red currants, tangerine, pink roses, lavender and whiffs of oriental incense. The flavors are fresh and sprightly, with notes of grape skin, fraise and cassis liqueurs followed by a resonant, dry finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2018 La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé ($22.99 - Esquin) - Brilliant copper-pink colored, this possesses enticing aromas of cherry, pomegranate, tangerine, pink lilac, lavender, Provençal herbs and incense. The exquisite flavors are deftly extracted, with notes of grape skin, pomegranate seeds and recurring tangerine peel, followed by a long, pleasing juicy finish. 19/20 points. Lynn: three stars. "Such a beauty."
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