The Latest in Washington Wine Values
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Who does't love wines that overdeliver for their price points. How about $20 wines that taste like $30 ones, or $30 ones that taste like $50 ones? Here are some wines that we have tasted recently that offer high quality/price ratios. Full reviews will be in the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines which goes on line May 26.
College Cellars
The Institute for Enology and Viticulture at the Walla Walla Community College delivers high quality wines for their modest prices. Most of the grapes come from the Institute's vineyards (Clarke and Anderson) or are donated by other vineyards. And the grape growing and winemaking is done by Program students.
2019 College Cellars Marsanne, Walla Walla Valley, Anderson Vineyard ($18) - This version of a North Rhone white variety shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and intriguing, floral aromas and fresh, lively flavors that lead into a juicy, dry finish, lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5/20 points.
2018 College Cellars Dolcetto, Walla Walla Valley, Cockburn Vineyard ($20) - This is a tasty version of this Italian Piedmont variety. Purple-crimson colored, its has seductive aromas and ample yet focused flavors with a sweetish ("dolce") lip-smacking finish. An ideal pizza or pasta wine. 18.5/20 points.
2018 College Cellars Carménère, Walla Walla Valley, Clarke Vineyard ($25) - Ruby-crimson colored, this has seductive aromas of wild fruits, with deliciously ripe, juicy flavors and a pleasing nicely fruited moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 College Cellars Grenache, Walla Walla Valley, Cockburn Vineyard ($30) - With lovely, perfumed aromatics and copious red and blue flavors and a long finish, this tastes as good as a $45 Grenache. 19/20 points.
2017 College Cellars Malbec, Walla Walla Valley ($25) - Sourced from the Blue Mountain and Clarke vineyards, this has jump out of the glass aromas and deliciously juicy and fruit forward flavors and a pleasing juicy finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 College Cellars Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($18) - This Sangiovese-Barbera combination shows a pink color and attractive aromas of strawberries, currants, Rainier cherries, lilac and cherry blossoms, with fresh, sprightly flavors and a nicely fruited dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
Other Washington Wine Values
2016 L'Ecole No 41 Estate Merlot, Walla Walla Valley ($36) - Composed of 79% Merlot, 17% Cab Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, half from Ferguson and Half Seven Hills, this is exquisitely balanced, with medium bodied but deep and penetrating flavors and a long, satisfying finish. 19/20 points.
2018 Canvasback Riesling, Columbia Valley ($30) - From the Frenchman Hills on the Royal Slope, this shows how well Riesling develops. Brilliant lemon-gold colored, it possesses floral aromas and vivid, resonant flavors, with persistent minerality. 19+/20 points.
2019 Bartholomew Rosé of Carménère, Rattlesnake Hills, Konnowak Vineyard ($18) - This is the only Rosé of Carménère I know of. Light copper-pink colored, it has attractive aromas of strawberries, cherries, watermelon and lively, pleasingly juicy, dry flavors. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Bartholomew Albariño, Horse Heaven Hills, Coyote Canyon Vineyard ($18) - From a grape originating in the Galicia region of Spain, this has intriguing aromas and distinctive flavors and a racy, bone dry finish 18.5/20 points.
2019 Bartholomew Viognier, Horse Heaven Hills, Coyote Canyon Vineyard ($18) - This possesses a lovely, perfumed nose and pleasingly juicy flavors, with notes of pear skin, peach stones and stony minerals and a crisp, finely fruity finish. 18.5/20 points.
2019 Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris Rosé, Columbia Valley ($20) - Produced from grapes given extended hang time to produce a copper tinged color, this possesses expressive aromas of strawberry, pink peach, Rainier cherry, tangerine, and pleasingly quaffable, yet textured flavors. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Long Shadows "Poet's Leap" Riesling Columbia Valley ($20) - With floral aromas of pear, peach, Key lime, apple blossoms. lilac and wet stone, with vivid white fruit flavors and a lingering off-dry, racy finish, this is inspired by the great Rieslings of Germany. 19/20 points.
2019 Sleight of Hand Cellars "The Magician's Assistant" Cabernet Franc Rosé Wine, Yakima Valley, Blackrock Vineyard ($18) - This attractively styled, with a pink-copper color and fresh aromas of strawberries, Rainier cherries, red currants, tangerine and pink roses. The flavors are appealing and resonant, with a crisp, piquant finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2019 Sleight of Hand Cellars "The Magician" Riesling, Ancient Lakes, Evergreen Vineyard ($18) - From a cool site, ideal for Riesling, this has floral aromas and fresh, juicy white fruits dancing on the palate, followed by a racy, off-dry low alcohol (11.5%) minerally finish. 18.5/20 points.
2016 DeLille Cellars Roofline Red Wine, Yakima Valley ($20 - regular $30) - This "Rhone-style" red displays a purplish-ruby color and rich aromas of berries, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are generous, yet focused intermixed with licorice, cocoa and alluvial minerals, followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. Good value at $30, a bargain at $20. 18.5/20 points.
Industry Responses to the Coronavirus Pandemic
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- Written by Rand Sealey
Given the tremendous impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the wine industry, what is being done to cope with the situation? What are the options? Here are a couple of perspectives, one from an industry consultant and the other a retailer, Esquin Wine Merchants.
A few days ago, I received an email with an attachment from Erik McLaughlin, a wine industry consultant with METIS NW which has facilitated major winery acquisitions in the Northwest. Recognizing that there will be a "slow and painful recovery," he wrote a lengthy article, "Thoughts on Winery response options in the midst of Covid-19." Here are excerpts from the introductory paragraph:
"It is hard to fathom any real recovery with unemployment nearing 20% (and likely to exceed it). You can't have that many people out of work and have a real recovery. The business mortality in this cycle is going to be substantial, so many of the jobs these folks would go back to might not be there waiting for them. I'd be pleased with a "V" shaped recovery, but I think it is extremely unlikely. Certain sectors are clearly more affected than others, with hospitality being both the most squarely hit and the least capable of weathering this.....Though they are key to the wine industry in several ways (restaurant, retail, tasting room, distribution, etc.) the core wine consumer is likely the least affected by the quarantine effects. Now their behavior may change, and ultimately our economy is one big ball of string so there are indirect and psychological effects on then, but most of the people who have been buying $25+ bottles of wine are still just as capable of buying that wine."
Among the winners who are doing right are those in DTC (Direct to Consumer) who have good data, talk DIRECTLY to customers, create meaningful discounts/incentives and have authentic online presence. Only the favorites are getting the lift while everything else is being left behind. Erik recommends that wineries help distributors, talk to their bankers, adjust inventories and fruit intake and do time management. For on-premise (tasting rooms, restaurants, and tourism) things are going to be heartbreaking. For some, an unpalatable but viable option is a managed wind-down of the wine business.
In conclusion, Erik states, "Turbulence creates both challenge and opportunity, by definition. Self-honesty, agility, and the willingness to make the hard decisions - doing the hard work will be the key to being one of the businesses that can grasp the opportunity in this time."
For the full article, go to www.metisnw.com and then the Blog link.
To get a retail perspective on the response to the COVID-19 pandemic, I contacted the people at Esquin (which I sold in 1997). Here is the reply I got from Chuck Lefevre, the owner:
"Esquin, like everyone else has been substantially impacted by COVID-19. We are open but not to walk in traffic - curbside pick-up, delivery and shipping only. Sales have skyrocketed to record highs for March and April, normally a quiet time of year. Delivery orders for example, have gone from 10 to 20 orders a day to over 100. As you might imagine those sales channels are much more labor intensive. We are needing to take the orders, pick the orders, ring the orders, then deliver or pack and ship the orders. Stephanie and the staff are overworked and exhausted - even more so than in December. We are paying the staff weekly hazard pay bonuses and are thankful they are working during these challenging times. Between the bonuses, overtime and additional expenses such as delivery costs and packing supplies, we are not making much if any profit. We are glad to be in business and our focus is on taking care of our customers and keeping the staff safe. We are hoping things return to the new normal soon - whatever that is."
This looks like Esquin is winning in DTC by doing right.
More European Wines from Esquin
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- Written by Rand Sealey
As you know, I owned Esquin Wine Merchants from 1969 to 1997. During those years European wines were the mainstays of our business: French, German, Italian, a bit of Spanish and Portuguese (Sherry, Port). Today, under the present owners, European wines play an important role and they do a great job with them. European wines were my first loves. Here are some wines from Esquin that we have tried recently and love.
Burgundy
2017 Jean-Philippe Fichet Rully Blanc ($36.99) - Iridescent lemon-gold colored, this Chardonnay from the Côte Chalonnais possesses floral aromas of pear, white peach, citrus, pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors are bright and vivid, with white fruits dancing on the palate, accompanied by notes of peach stones, pear skin and flinty minerals. The resonance continues on the back with poire William and pêche liqueurs, almond and lemon zest, followed by a lingering, persistently minerally finish. This is a real find. 19/20 points.
2016 Domaine Moutard-Diligent Chablis ($24.99) - From a respected grower in Chablis, this Chardonnay shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and typical Chablis aromas of Bosc pear, white peach, citrus, pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers and gunflint. The flavors are crisp and vibrant, with white fruits that are imbued with grape and pear skins and saline minerals. The resonance continues on the back with sensations of poire and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest, followed by a dry yet finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Regis Bouvier Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($23.99) - From a grower in Marsannay at the north end of the Côte d'Or, this wine shows a brick red color and a typical varietal nose of wild strawberries, red cherries, red currants, red roses, tobacco leaf, fennel and whiffs of incense. The flavors are engaging as well, with supple red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, milk chocolate, medium roast coffee and earth. The back picks up gently pressed berries, mocha, fraise and cassis liqueurs and toast, followed by a slightly grainy moderate tannin finish. This is what the French call a vin du plaisir. 18.5/20 points.
2016 Joseph Drouhin Côte de Beaune Villages ($38.99) - From a respected Beaune negociant, this offers a brick red color and rich aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, red roses, sweet tobacco and sweet incense. The medium bodied flavors are deliciously rich and velvety, yet substantial, with definite Burgundian Pinot Noir character, accompanied by notes of red licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and a touch of dusty earth. On the back, the wine fleshens out with sensations of fraise and creme de cassis liqueurs and toasted nuts, and then drifts into a satiny moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
Rhone Valley
2017 Domaine Vieux Lazaret Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc ($43.99) - Composed of cold fermented 45% Grenache Blanc, 30% Clairette, 20% Bourboulenc and 5% barrel fermented Roussanne, this shows an iridescent gold color and intriguing aromas of pear, white peach, honeydew melon, citrus, anise and white incense. The flavors are forceful yet finely tuned, with vivid white fruits dancing on the palate, with notes of pear skin, peach stone and cobblestone minerals. On the back, the wine turns richly textured, with sensations of poire and pêche liqueurs, marzipan, lemon zest and lees (from extended contact) followed by a lingering persistently minerally finish. 19/20 points.
2017 Domaine Pélaquie Lirac ($15.99) - Lirac is situated across the river from Tavel. This 70% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre combination shows a deep ruby color and and rich, smoky aromas of raspberry, black currant, black plum, black roses, mulberry, garrigue, cracked pepper and incense. The flavors are direct and generous, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast, earth and minerals. On the back, the wine thickens, with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, burnt charcoal, lanolin and a bit of leather, followed by a ripe sweet-dry tannin finish. Excellent value. 18+/20 points.
2017 Brotte Gigondas, "La Marasque" ($27.99) - Predominately Grenache with some Syrah, this shows a ruby-crimson color and enticing aromas of raspberry. pomegranate, black currant, black roses, tobacco, garrigue and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with thick black and red fruits that are intermixed with licorice root, cola, roasted coffee beans and Dentelles de Montmirial minerals. On the back, a chewy texture emerges, with sensations of macerated berries, roasted nuts, framboise and cassis liqueurs and touches of leather and charcoal, followed by a satisfying spiced moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Crous Saint Martin Châteauneuf du Pape "Hommage à l'an 1879" ($34.99) - This is a repeat from the posting of 17 March, but we liked it so much, we bought more. Ruby-crimson colored, it emits inviting aromas of blackberries, cherries, pomegranates, black currants, brambles, crushed roses, sandalwood and spiced incense. The flavors are thick and generous, yet deep and forceful, with lavish red and blue fruits that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, French roast and minerals. The wine thickens on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, kirsch, crème de cassis and charcoal, followed by a long sweetish tannin finish. 80% Grenache, 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre. Tastes like a $50 CdP for $35. 19/20 points.
2017 Oliver Dumaine Crozes-Hermitage, "La Croix du Verre" ($27.99) - This North Rhone 100% Syrah displays a semi opaque ruby-crimson color and a rich, smoky nose of blackberries, black cherries, black currants, black roses, pipe tobacco, lavender, rosemary and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with bold, up front black fruits that are direct and true to variety, infused with licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and riverside earth and minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts and burnt charcoal, followed by a savory sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
Italy
2018 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba ($18.99) - This is a tasty young Dolcetto. It shows a typical purplish color and ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, crushed roses, tobacco, field herbs and incense. The flavors are pleasingly rich and generous, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and Alban hills minerals. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with pressed sweetish ("dolce") yet dry fruits and touches of almond paste and pencil shavings, followed by a ripe dry finish. A pasta and pizza wine. 18+/20 points.
2018 Vietti Dolcetto d'Alba, "Tre Vigne" ($21.99) - Purplish ruby colored, this wine emits rich, smoky aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, red roses, field herbs, anise and wood smoke. The flavors are ripe and fruit forward, with notes of red licorice, cola, black tea and hillside minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, roasted hazelnuts, cherry and currant liqueurs and a bit of graphite, followed by a sweetish ("dolce") yet dry finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Vietti Barbera d'Alba, "Tre Vigne" ($26.99) - This shows a deep ruby color and ripe aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, crushed red roses, mulberry, tobacco, oregano and wood smoke. The red fruit flavors are bright and vigorous, with notes of red licorice, bittersweet chocolate and Alban hillside minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, tart cherries (a trait of Barbera) and roasted hazelnuts, followed by a juicy sweet-dry moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2016 Vietti Barolo "Castiglione" ($58.99) - The Vietti single vineyard bottlings will cost you $200 a bottle, but this multi vineyard blend delivers a lot at a fraction of that. It exhibits a deep ruby-garnet color and an intoxicating nose of semi-dried fruits - raspberries, cherries, plums, figs, orange peel - with scents of crushed dried roses, tobacco leaf, road tar (a trait of Barolo Nebbiolo), sandalwood, dried violets and smoldering incense. The flavors are classically styled and medium full-bodied, with semi dried fruits that are infused with licorice root, bittersweet chocolate, espresso and Castiglione hills earth. The penetration continues on the back with sensations of dried berries, roasted hazelnuts, recurring orange peel, and graphite, followed by a long, long sweet-dry tannin finish. 19.5/20 points.
Iberia
2015 Marqués de Murrietta Rioja Reserva, "Finca Ygay" ($20.99) - This is another repeat, but I put it in here because it's such a great buy (regular: $25.99). Composed of 80% Tempranillo, 12% Graciano, 6% Mazuela and 2% Garnacha, it shows a ruby-garnet color and rich, smoky aromas of raspberries, cherries, plums, crushed roses, tobacco, cedar and incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with ample yet focused fruits that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and earth. The back picks up roasted berries and touches of almonds and American oak, followed by a ripe, moderate sweet-dry tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
Dow's 10 Year Tawny Port ($34.99) - This comes from a highly respected Oporto House. Hold it to the light and it shows a distinct tawny edge. The aromas are rich and sultry, with scents of semi-dried fruits - cherry, plum, fig - dried roses and orange peel. The sweetish entry gives way to fruits that have gained complexity from the ten year sojourn in oak. On the back, the wine enriches with notes of roasted nuts, dried orange peel and dried cherries, followed by a long sweet-dry finish. 19/20 points.
For Wine, Buy Local / The Tero Virtual Tasting
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- Written by Rand Sealey
For Wine, Buy Local
With the challenges retailers and wineries face today, the one thing you can do to help is buy local. Check out the websites of your favorite wineries and buy their wines, this helps keep the winery employees working and keep the wineries going while the tasting rooms are shut down. Many wineries are offering great deals and free shipping. For imported wines, go to your favorite wine shop and buy from them. To help you with this, here is a selection of wines from Esquin Wine Merchants in Seattle and The Thief Wine & Brew Shop in Walla Walla. Both have on line ordering and curbside pickup or shipping available.
Esquin Wine & Spirits (www.esquin.com)
2017 William Fevre Chablis, "Champs Royaux" ($32.99) - Brilliant lemon-gold colored, this possesses enticing aromas of fresh cut apples, white peach, lemon, quince, lemon, apple blossoms and wet stone. The flavors show considerable Chablis Chardonnay character, with notes of peach stone, crunchy apple skin and calcareous minerals. The resonance continues on the back with sensations of Calvados and pêche liqueurs and lemon zest, followed by a crisp, persistently minerally finish. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Domaine Raphet Chambolle-Musigny, Les Bussières ($91.99) - The small parcel, Les Bussières, adjoins the Premier Crus, Les Sentiers in Chambolle-Musigny and La Bussière in Morey-St. Denis. This vintage exhibits a deep brick red color and intoxicating aromas of raspberries, cherries, black currants, crushed roses, tobacco, truffles, violets and sweet incense. The flavors are supple and velvety (a trait of Chambolle-Musigny), yet forceful, with layers of sweet-dry fruits that are infused with licorice root, Belgian chocolate, French roast and calcareous earth and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine gains complexity with sensations of pressed fruits, toasted pecans, kidskin, lanolin and pencil shavings, all flowing into a lingering chewy yet satiny finish, marked by ripe tannins. 19.5/20 points.
2016 Felsina Chianti Classico, Riserva, "Rancia" $64.99) - This is a powerful Chianti Classico. It exhibits a deep ruby-garnet color and intoxicating aromas of semi-dried cherries, black currants, black plums, crushed roast, pipe tobacco, dried orange peel, sandalwood and incense. The flavors are deep and authoritative, with layers if semi-dried fruits that are infused with black licorice, bittersweet chocolate, Italian roast and hillside earth and minerals. The penetration continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted hazelnuts, recurring dried cherries and fruit confit, followed by a classic Tuscan sweet-dry tannin finish. 19.5/20 points.
2014 G.D. Vajra Barolo, Ravera ($75.99) - This Nebbiolo straddles the modern and traditional styles. It shows a classic nose of semi-dried fruits - cherries, plums, orange peel - with scents of dried roses, tobacco, road tar (a trait of Nebbiolo) and sweet perfumes of violets and incense. The flavors are bold and mouth filling, with layers of dark fruits, licorice, espresso and dusty earth. The penetration continues on the back with roasted berries and nuts, dried cherries, recurring orange peel and graphite, followed by a classic dryish tannin finish. 19+/20 points.
Valdo Prosseco Brut, Treviso ($13.99) - Lynn picked this out as she loves Prosecco sparkling wine. This is a cut above commercial brands such as La Marca and Ruffino. It shows a bright gold color, frothy bubbles and floral aromas of apple, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and stone. The flavors are fresh and zesty, with touches of cream and toast on the dry true Brut finish. 18/20 points.
Smith Woodhouse Lodge Reserve Port ($24.99) - This is a fine example of a proprietary Reserve Port. Deep ruby colored, it possesses rich aromas of cherry, plum and currant, with scents of roses and wood smoke. The flavors are generous and mouth filling, yet focused, not too sweet, just right, with a pleasing finish. 18.5/20 points.
Ramos Pinto "RP10" Ten Year Tawny Port ($41.99) - Averaging ten years age, this shows a deep ruby-garnet color and rich aromas of black cherries, plums, fig and wood smoke. The dark fruit flavors are rich and generous, yet focused, with notes of chocolate, hazelnut and graphite, followed by a lingering, sweetish, balanced finish. 19/20 points.
See the 17 March posting below for previous reviews of wines from Esquin and watch for next week's posting for more wines.
The Thief (www.thiefshop.com)
2018 Le Peu de la Moriette Vouvray ($18) - This Loire Valley white offers a brilliant gold color and lovely aromas of pear, peach, honeydew melon, pear tree blossoms, honeysuckle, verbena and spiced white incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, brimming with white fruits that show considerable Chenin Blanc character, along with pear skin and calcareous minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and melon rind, followed by a lightly honeyed, lightly spiced finish. Super value. 18.5/20 points.
2017 Matrot Bourgogne Chardonnay ($26) - Brilliant lemon-gold colored, this possesses floral aromas of apples, white peaches, grapefruit, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and wet stone. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with lively white fruits that are imbued with grape skin, peach stone and granitic minerals. The back picks up Calvados and pêche liqueurs and a twist of grapefruit peel on the way to a crisp, finely fruited Burgundian finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Domaine des Chers Juliénas ($20) - This is a charming Cru Beaujolais. Purplish ruby colored, it emits enticing aromas of strawberries, cherries, red currants, red roses, mulberry and whiffs of incense. The medium bodied flavors are deliciously fruit forward, with bright red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine thickens, with sensations of pressed fruits, roasted pecans, and fraise and cassis, liqueurs, followed by a ripe soft tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2018 Domaine Rochette Morgon, Côte du Py ($27) - This wine received the Medaille d'Or at the Concurs des Grands Vins du Beaujolais. It displays a deep purplish-crimson color and lovely, perfumed aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, crushed roses, lavender and sweet incense. The flavors are deliciously alluring with layers of lavish red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, semi-sweet chocolate, medium roast coffee and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine turns velvety yet vigorous, with sensations of pressed fruits, toasted nuts and crème de cassis and No. 2 pencil lead, followed by a lingering ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2017 Equinoxe Crozes-Hermitage ($27) - This is a tasty young Syrah from the North Rhone Valley. It shows a purplish ruby color and ripe aromas of blackberry, black currant and black plum, with scents of crushed roses, lavender and sweet incense. The flavors are generous and direct, with dark fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, coffee beans and riverside earth and minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, roasted nuts, creme de cassis and touches of kidskin and charcoal, followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2016 Domaine Laurent Combier Crozes-Hermitage ($26) - Deeo ruby colored, this wine emits rich aromas of wild raspberries, plums, black currants, crushed black roses, mulberry, tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with thick black and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, bittersweet chocolate, cola, French roast and minerals. The saturation continues on the back with sensations of macerated fruits, framboise and cassis liqueurs and touches of leather and burnt charcoal, followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2016 J.L. Chave Sélection Saint Joseph "Offerus" ($43) - Saint Joseph is situated south of Côte Rotie and across the Rhone river from Hermitage. This Syrah exhibits an opaque ruby color and intoxicating aromas of wild fruits - blackberries, black currants, black plums - with scents of crushed black roses, maduro tobacco, juniper berries, anise, black violets and spiced incense. The flavors are thick and bold, embodying varietal purity, with layers of dark fruits that are infused with licorice root, French roast and hillside minerals. The penetration continues on the back with sensations of macerated fruits, creme de cassis, lanolin ("legs") and ground charcoal, followed by a lengthy, grainy sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2017 Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas, Vieilles Vignes ($35) - Composed of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre from vines averaging 40 years old, this South Rhone red offers a deep ruby color and and rich aromas of raspberry, brambly currants and orange peel, tobacco, and spiced incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet thick and savory, marked by red licorice, cocoa, French roast and mas minerals. The back picks up macerated berries, roasted nuts and recurring orange peel, followed by a chewy, spiced ripe tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
The Tero Estates Virtual Tasting
On Saturday, April 18 at 2:00, Lynn and I watched Tero Estates' virtual wine tasting on Facebook. The Tero Wine Club manager, Rikki Wescott, did the introduction, with a light touch, telling the Tero story and showing the tasting line-up. Then she put co-owner and winemaker Doug Roskelley on. Doug started off the tasting with the 2019 Charbono Rosé, made from a grape originating in the Savoie region of France. Rikki held a glass of the wine in front of a white card before the camera to show the copper-pink color. Doug also made a pitch for my Review of Washington Wines and Rikki flashed my promotional card before the camera. Then Doug went through the single block Cabernet Sauvignons from the Windrow Vineyards, the 2014 Hill Block, 2016 Plateau Block and 2016 Old Block, describing the characteristics of each block's terroir. All very well done. Kudos to Doug and Rikki for putting on such an informative and entertaining virtual tasting. The tasting can be replayed on Tero Estates' Facebook Page. My reviews of the 2019 Charbono Rosé and 2016 Plateau Block and Old Block Cabernets (along with the Hill Block) are in the May issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
For another virtual tasting - with Sleight of Hand Cellars - go to Facebook on Saturday, April 25 at 5:00. The featured wines will be the 2016 Archimage Red and the 2016 Illusionist Cabernet Sauvignon (both reviewed in the January 2020 issue).
What's Coming up Next Week
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- Written by Rand Sealey
I skipped last week's Review Blog because there wasn't much new to report. The routine has been pretty much the same. With all the wine tasting rooms closed, I have been receiving wine deliveries and evaluating the wines for the May issue of the Review of Washington Wines.
In the next issue of the Review of Washington Wines which goes on line April 24, there will be reports on Walla Walla Valley Spring Releases, including àMaurice Cellars, Tranche Estate, The Walls, Walla Walla Vintners, Gramercy Cellars and others. There also will be reviews of the outstanding 2017 Reds from Clearwater Canyon Cellars in Lewiston. Among the Highly Recommended wines are Tero Estate's 2016 single Block Cabernets, the 2014 21 Grams Red and Woodward Canyon's 2017 Reds. Also in this issue are some more 2019 Rosés.
Along with the May issue, there will be next week's blog with tasting notes on other wines from around the world. With all the Washington wines we have been drinking at home, there has been little time to try other wines. But now that the May issue of the Review of Washington Wines has been wrapped up and sent to our website manager, we have been able to have wines from France, Italy, Spain, California and Oregon. Also in next week's blog will be a report own a virtual tasting of Tero Estates wines with Doug Roskelley.
Until then, stay healthy and happy.
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