- Written by Rand Sealey
In Burgundy, the Appellations d'Origine Controlle such as those of Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, Corton, Pommard and Puligny-Montrachet are well-known. But what about Marsannay, Monthelie, Maranges and others? Wines from near more famous towns can produce exceptional wines that can be great values as well. Here are some wines Lynn and I have tasted recently that merit attention.
Marsannay is situated at the northern end of the Côte d'Or, next to Fixin. Red (Pinot Noir) white (Chardonnay) and rosé wines are produced. One of the top producers is Regis Bouvier from whom the following two wines come.
2016 Regis Bouvier Marsannay Blanc, "Les Longeroies" ($34.99 - wine.com) - This shows a crystalline gold color and intriguing aromas of pear, peach, lime, wet stone and white incense. The flavors are simultaneously rich and taut, with notes of peach stone, pear skin and saline minerals. The back picks up Calvados and pêche liqueurs and toasted nuts on the way to a crisp, finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
2016 Regis Bouvier Marsannay Rouge, "Clos du Roy" ($38.99 - wine.com) - This displays a deep brick red color and enticing aromas of fraises de bois, cerise and cassis with scents of rosebuds, orange peel, lavender, forest carpet and wafts of wood smoke. The true to variety flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with notes of cocoa, medium roast coffee and granitic minerals. The smooth textured back picks up gently pressed fruits, creme de cassis and recurring orange peel, followed by a pleasing soft tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
Monthélie is located between Volnay and Meursault. The wines are mostly red and the best vineyard is the Premier Cru Les Champs Fuillot which is just across the road from the Premier Cru Volnay Caillerets.
2016 Louis Jadot Monthélie "Sous Roches" ($42.99 - wine.com) - Brick red colored, this possesses perfumed aromas of fraises de bois, old tree cherries and red currants with scents of wild red flowers, lilac and incense. The medium bodied flavors, as well, are charming, with notes of licorice, cocoa and granitic minerals. The back reveals gently pressed berries and crème de cassis, followed by a pleasing soft tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.
2015 Domaine Dubuet-Monthelie Monthelie 1er Cru, Les Champs Fuillot ($42.99 - wine.com) - Deep brick red colored, this emits seductive aromas of raspberries, cherries, black currants, crushed roses, sweet pea flowers, violets and whiffs of oriental incense. The flavors are alluring, with velvety yet substantial pure Pinot Noir flavors that are imbued with licorice, cocoa, medium roast and minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, kirsch and creme de cassis, leading effortlessly into a faintly sweetish finish. 18.5+/20 points.
Saint-Aubin is situated on the slope overlooking Puligny and Chassagne-Montrachet. The vineyard plantings consist of 75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir and the wines are similar to those if it's neighbors.
2015 Domaine Gérard Thomas Saint-Aubin "Champs Tirant" ($32.99 - Total Wine) - This shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and a distinctive Chardonnay nose of white peach, citrus and wet stone. The flavors, as well, are striking, with notes of peach stone, grape soon and limestone. On the back, the wine intensifies, with sensations of Calvados and pêche liqueurs and touches of lemon zest and crème fraiche, followed by a crisp yet viscous finish. 18.5/20 points.
Maranges is at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, just past Santenay, comprised of the communes of Dezize and Sampigny. The wines are mostly red with some white.
2015 Domaine Maurice Charleux & Fils Maranges 1er Cru, Les Clos Roussots ($28.99 - wine.com) - Deep ruby colored, this possesses a smoky nose of strawberries, cherries, currants, orange peel, crushed roses, pine needles and incense. The medium bodied flavors show distinct Pinot character, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, breakfast tea and earth. On the back, the wine intensifies with sensations of macerated berries, toasted nuts, fraise and cassis liqueurs, recurring orange peel and graphite, followed by a smooth moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2015 Jean-Claude Boisset Maranges 1er Cru, La Fussière ($32.99 - wine.com) - This bottling, from a respected Nuits-St. Georges negociant offers a deep ruby color and intense aromas of raspberries, cherries, black currants, black roses, tobacco and incense. The flavors are robust for a Côte de Beaune, with layered red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and minerals. The back palate is vigorous, with distinct Pinot character, along with smooth tannins. 18.5/20 points.
The Côte Chalonnaise is situated south of the Côte d'Or and north of the Maconnais in the Odense River Valley. The main communes are Mercurey and Givry (mostly reds) and Rully and Montagny (mostly whites).
2016 Faiveley Mercurey, "La Framboisière" ($38.99 - wine.com) - This offers a a deep brick red color and enticing aromas of framboise, cerise, cassis, red roses, sweet tobacco, lilac and white incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with velvety yet deep, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and riverside minerals. The back reveals sensations of framboise and cassis liqueurs, mocha and pencil shavings, followed by a savory moderate tannin finish. A real charmer which gives it a plus. 18.5/20 points.
2015 Château de Chamirey Mercurey ($35.99 - wine.com) - Deep brick red colored, this emits definite Pinot aromas of raspberries, cherries, black currants, roses, tobacco, earth and incense. The flavors are simultaneously velvety and muscular, endowed with licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and riverside earth. The penetration continues on the back with pressed berries, roasted nuts and charcoal dust, followed by a smooth tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2015 Domaine Ragot Givry, Vieilles Vignes ($29.99 - wine.com) - This is a well-priced Pinot Noir. It shows a brick red color and enticing aromas of cherry, plum and black currant with scents of crushed roses, tobacco leafing incense. The flavors are supple yet deep and well dilates, with notes of cocoa, French roast and earth and minerals. The back picks up kirsch and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a satisfying moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
Pouilly-Fuissé and Macon-Villages are well known sources for Chardonnay. But what is Chaintré? The commune straddles the Macon-Villages and Pouilly-Fuissé delimited appellations. The Villages wine is called Macon-Chaintré and the wine from the Fuissé side can be called Pouilly-Fuissé.
2016 Domaine Cormin Macon-Chaintré ($24.99 - wine.com) - Brilliant gold colored, this possesses floral aromas of pear, peach, citrus, pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with notes of pear skin and limestone. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs on the way to a brisk, finely fruited finish. 18+/20 points.
2016 Domaine Cormin Pouilly-Fuissé (31.99 - wine.com) - This comes from the Fuissé side of Chaintré and is organically farmed. It shows a brilliant gold color and perfumed aromas of pear, white peach, citrus, acacia flowers, peach blossoms and white incense. The flavors are well extracted and finely fruited (indigenous yeasts and sur lie aging), with notes of peach stone and pear skin and limestone. The varietal intensity continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of brioche and lemon zest, followed by a brisk terroir-driven finish. 18.5/20 points.
2016 Marie-Pierre Manciat Pouilly-Fuissé, "Les Petites Bruyères" ($28.99 - wine.com) - This is a fruit-driven style of Pouilly-Fuissé. It displays a brilliant gold color and a lovely floral nose of pear, peach, apricot, grapefruit, pear tree blossoms, lemon verbena, and whiffs of white incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with varietally pure character, marked by grape and pear skins and granitic minerals and touches of nougat and crème fraiche, followed by a pleasingly fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.
- Written by Rand Sealey
In December of 2008, the inaugural issue of the Review of Washington Wines went on line. Here's how it came into being.
When I owned Esquin Wine Merchants in Seattle from 1969 to 1997, it was run mainly as a mail order based business. I sent newsletters and brochures to our customers with descriptions of the wines offered. So I have been a wine writer since 1969. Many customers came to trust my wine selection judgment and descriptions.
In 1997, I sold Esquin to Chuck LeFevre, who still owns the wine store in SODO. I continued as a consultant, mostly in the writing of descriptions for the store's newsletters. In 2008, Lynn and I moved part-time to Walla Walla where we now live full-time. I wrote monthly descriptions of Washington wines for Esquin.
When the recession of 2008 hit, I was let go at Esquin, which was no great surprise. Then I came up with the idea of putting my wine writing experience to work in an independent on-line publication. I named it the Review of Washington Wines (even though it included wines from contiguous cross-state AVAs). I produced a sample issue which I showed to friends in the industry and to consumers and was encouraged to continue with the project.
Then, after considerable research, I found Advantagecom Networks in Walla Walla to do the website development and hosting for reviewofwashingtonwines.com, a relationship that has continued to this day. Amy Kinney has been a great help in producing every single monthly issue. Steadily, the subscription list has grown and the number of wines reviewed in each issue has expanded from 30 initially to 40, then 50, and now 60 per month.
So now as we go into the eleventh year of this publication in 2019, I look forward to tasting more wines and writing more reviews. Another milestone next year will be my celebration of fifty years in the wine industry. There will be a celebration event in the spring, which will be announced. All of you will be invited. My thanks to all of you who have made my publication a success.
- Written by Rand Sealey
Wines Recently Tasted
Below are some wines we've drunk at home and on a recent visit to Seattle.
The Zinfandels from Ridge Vineyards have been among our favorites for over four decades. These two are outstanding.
2016 Ridge Lytton Springs Red Wine, Dry Creek Valley ($43) - Composed of 69% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Syrah, 6% Carignan and 2% Mataro (Mourvèdre) this shows a ruby color and intoxicating aromas of blackberry, cherry, huckleberry, rosebuds, brambles and wood smoke. The flavors are supple, yet vigorous with layers of red fruits, licorice, cocoa, and riverbed minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, cherry liqueur and spiced American oak on the way to a lingering ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2016 Ridge Geyserville Red Wine, Alexander Valley ($43) - A field blend of 73% Zinfandel, 17% Carignan 7% Petite Syrah and 3% Alicante Bouschet, this displays a ruby-crimson color and seductive aromas of raspberries, blueberries, currants, red roses, sweet tobacco and spiced incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing with lavish red and blue fruits that are accented by licorice, cola, coffee beans and earth. The back picks up macerated berries, roasted nuts, kirsch and toffee followed by a lengthy ripe, smooth tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2014 Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain ($80) - We had this at the Sorrento in Seattle. I ordered it because it was on the wine list for $90. Most restaurant wines are about double of retail, so the Sorrento must have gotten a super special deal from the winery. It was bold and powerful, typical of Red Mountain Cabernet, but elegantly styled, with layers of dark fruits, licorice, dark coffee and scorched earth, along with integrated oak and a long complex finish. 19.5/20 points. A full review to be in the January issue.
2014 Woodward Canyon "Artist Series" Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington State - We had this at the Sunset Club. It was drinking nicely. Rich aromas and supple yet well defined medium full bodied flavors. The fruit just kept on coming, with intermixtures of licorice, cocoa, and earth, followed by a lengthy moderate tannin finish. 19/20 points.
2015 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva ($34.99 - Esquin) - From Castelnuovo Beradenga in the east of the Classico region, this is a lovely, approachable Riserva. It shows a ruby-garnet color, and enticing aromas of raspberry, cherry, red plum, rose petals, tobacco, anise and incense. The flavors are supple and mouth filling, with that distinct mountainside minerality that distinguishes a Classico. The slightly nutted sweet-dry tannin finish is satiny and elegant. 18.5+/20 points.
2013 Felsina "Rancia" Chianti Classico Riserva ($59.99 - Esquin) - This top line Riserva offers a deep ruby-garnet color and an intoxicating nose of cherries, dark plums, crushed rose petals, pipe tobacco, cedar, rosemary and smoldering incense. The old vine flavors are intense and deep cored, marked by licorice, bittersweet chocolate, espresso and stony minerals. The penetration continues on the back with sensations of macerated fruits, roasted chestnuts, graphite and oak, all leading seamlessly into a lingering, satiny finish. 19+/20 points.
2014 Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva - We had this at Assaggio, priced at $75. It came on as being in between the traditional and modern styles of Chianti Classico. Garnet colored, it possessed aromas of raspberry, cherry and plum with well structured classic flavors, marked by licorice, espresso and hillside minerals. The back picked up macerated fruits, roasted chestnuts and a long dryish finish. It paired beautifully with our risotto with wild mushrooms and beef tidbits. 19/20 points.
N/V Anne-Sophie Dubois "Ici et là" Vin de France ($28 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - "Ici et là" means "Here and there." This is interesting in that it is composed of 80% Gamaret (a crossing of Gamay and Reichensteiner, mostly grown in Switzerland) and 20% Gamay. It shows a ruby-crimson color and attractive aromas of raspberries, cherries, red currants. red roses, sweet pea flowers and white incense. The medium bodied flavors are bright and vivid, with notes of red licorice, cherry cola and granitic minerals. The back picks up framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a pleasingly juicy moderate alcohol (12%) and tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.
2016 Fréderic et Daniel Brunier "Mégaphone" Ventoux ($24 - The Thief) - Ventoux (formerly Cotes du Ventoux - "Windy Slopes") is situated in the southwest Rhone Valley. This 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah combination shows a ruby color and aromas of raspberries, currants, mulberry, tobacco and pepper. The flavors are medium bodied yet robust, with notes of licorice, cola and wind blown scorched earth. On the back, the wine turns chewy textured, with roasted berries and nuts and charcoal, followed by a ripe, again peppery, moderate tannin finish. 18/20 points.
2016 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas ($39.99 - Esquin) - This is an addition to our collection of Gigondas wines (see the posting of 24 October for previous ones). This one displays a deep ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of blackberries, currants, red plums, tobacco, garrigue, smoked meats and spiced incense. The flavors are lavish yet thick and deep cored, with black and red fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa and granitic minerals. The back reveals sensations of pressed fruits, roasted nuts, kidskin, creme de cassis and charcoal, followed by a long spice ripe tannin finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 19/20 points.
A Wine Grammar Lesson
In reading wine writing by others, I run across words that have been misused. Here are a few examples.
Variety and varietal. These two words have been used as being interchangeable. That is incorrect. Variety is a noun as in "Merlot is a grape variety." Varietal is an adjective as in "This wine has good varietal character." Varietal modifies the word character. The addition of ly makes the word varietally an adverb, as in "This wine is varietally correct." Recently, I saw in a winery brochure this sentence: "Don't be fooled by the Hollywood movies and perception that merlot is not as superior as other varietals." It should be varieties, not varietals.
Pallet, palate and palette. These are homonyms, words that are similar in pronunciation, but have different meanings. But I have seen the incorrect word used in describing a wine, as in "This wine has a tasty pallet." A pallet is what one stacks cases of wine on, not a palate. A palate is in the mouth, where one tastes wine. A a palette is a plate on which an artist mixes paints. Palette can also be used to indicate variety of flavors, as in "This wine has a wonderful palette of delicious flavors."
Here is a sentence that illustrates the correct usage of these words: "The winemaker fork lifted a pallet of his wine which had a tasty palate and a palette of complex flavors."
End of wine grammar lesson of the day.
Be sure to have plenty of American wine, especially Washington ones for this American traditional dinner. See last week's Review Blog below for my selections for Thanksgiving.
- Written by Rand Sealey
Harvest 2018 Declared a Success
The 2018 wine harvest has come to an end and everyone is happy with the crop. Growers finished harvesting in late October and early November. The quality is believed to be high. Here's what some winemakers have posted on Facbook:
Aluvé (Kelly and JJ Menozzi): "The last of our Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot was harvested Monday [October 19]. We are excited about how the 2018 vintage is tasting now."
Trey Busch (Sleight of Hand) called it "one for the ages! Quality is through the roof, and we had a picture perfect Autumn to lead us into November."
Jan Roskelley (Tero Estates): "Yes, the grapes were cold. Yes, they were tasty! They will be gorgeous in the bottle...years from now!"
Walla Walla Vintners (November 6): "As the final lots are pressed out and the last of the barrels are being filled...the end is in sight. 2018 has been one beautiful vintage."
What We're Drinking for Thanksgiving
Every year, I get annoyed when grocery stores and liquor stores recommend foreign wines for Thanksgiving. The main motivation seems to be that retailers want you to buy what they want to sell. Thanksgiving is distinctly an American holiday and should be celebrated with our own wines.
Three years ago (2015) we celebrated Thanksgiving here in Walla Walla with Ted and Joyce Cox and other friends. I supplied the wines, a selection of wines suitable for the Thanksgiving dinner. I will be doing the same again this year. Here's what I'll be bringing.
A couple of bottles of Washington sparkling wines from Treveri to go with the appetizers.
A couple of bottles of Washington Rieslings (Long Shadows and Eroica) for those who like a slightly sweet white wine.
A couple of bottles of "GSM" wines L'Ecole No. 41 and The Walls). The combination of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre is made to order for the savory spices and herbs of Thanksgiving.
A couple of bottles of Washington Syrah for those liking a bolder yet compatible red. A Reynvaan will provide just the right amount of Rocks earthiness and a Waters will offer suppleness and spice.
A Seven Hills Late Harvest Riesling and a Whidbey's Port for dessert.
When you choose wines for Thanksgiving, think aromatics, wines whose aromas and flavors can complement the spice and herb aromas and flavors of the turkey and all the fixings. Steer away from dry whites such as Chardonnay and tannic wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon. If you want a "Bordeaux" wine, try a Carmenère or a Cabernet Franc.
- Written by Rand Sealey
During Fall Release Weekend, the Reynvaan Family Vineyards celebrated its Tenth Anniversary with a retrospective tasting of Syrahs from the In the Rocks Vineyard. The Reynvaan family - parents, Mike and Gale, winemaker son, Matt, daughters Amanda and Angela, and other family members - hosted the event at the winery on the end of Cottonwood Road.. The vintages poured were from 2007, when the winery was started, to a barrel sample of the 2017 vintage. Here are my notes and scores.
2007 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard - This showed a deep garnet color and rich aromas of semi-dried fruits, orange peel and smoldering incense. The flavors were maturing beautifully with depth and complexity, followed by a long, slightly nutted finish. 19/20 points.
2008 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard - Garnet colored, this possessed smoky aromas of dried berries, roasted nuts orange peel and incense. The flavors were rich and smooth, beautifully matured, with notes of mocha, coffee grounds, distinct Rocks minerality and a long, long, complex savory finish. 19.5/20 points.
2009 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard - This showed a ruby-garnet color and rich, smoky aromas of semi-dried berries, burnt leaves, sandalwood and oriental incense. The flavors were thick and chewy, with distinct Rocks minerality, slightly nutted, followed by a long, complex dried finish. 19+/20 points.
2010 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard - This was one of the Reynvaan's best vintages, from a cooler year. It showed an intoxicating nose of wild berries, dried lavender, herbs and smoldering incense. The flavors were deep and penetrating, underlain with maturing fruits and cobblestone minerals and loamy, followed by a seemingly endless finish. 19.5/20 points.
2011 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard - This showed a brilliant ruby color and a rich nose of wild berries, garrigue and incense. The flavors were supple yet well structured, with layers of elegant fruits, that picked up roasted nuts and orange peel on the way to a long, dryish finish, typical of the 2011 vintage. Slow maturing, this will need more time. 19+/20 points.
2012 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard - Medium ruby colored, this wine has developed nicely with floral aromas of raspberry, chassis, lavender and incense. On the palate the wine was pleasingly rich and supple, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and Rocks minerals, followed by a long, dryish finish. 19+/20 points.
2013 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard - This vintage displayed a medium ruby color and a warm, rich nose of raspberries, blueberries, currants, tobacco, lavender and white incense. The medium bodied flavors came on elegantly, with notes of licorice, cocoa powder and earth, followed by touches of orange peel and pencil shavings on the toasty, lightly herbed finish. 19/20 points.
2014 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard - Deep ruby-crimson colored, this possessed sultry, smoky aromas of semi-dried fruits, orange peel, garrigue and oriental incense. The medium full bodied flavors came on well structured, with considerable varietal purity, accompanied by notes of dark cocoa, French roast and Rocks minerality, followed by a lingering, savory ripe tannin finish. 19.5/20 points.
2015 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard - This showed a deep ruby-crimson color and a lovely, perfumed nose of wild fruits, lavender, violets and oriental incense. The flavors were deliciously ripe and supple, yet focused, with notes of licorice, cocoa powder and loamy cobblestone minerals, followed seamlessly by a long ripe tannin finish. 19.5/20 points.
2016 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard - Deep crimson-purple colored, this possessed an almost ethereal nose of wild fruits, pomegranate and cassis, rose petals, lavender and incense. The stylish flavors were medium bodied yet elegant and well delineated, marked by cocoa powder, earth, orange peel and charcoal, followed by a spice dusted dryish finish. 19+/20 points.
2017 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, In the Rocks Vineyard (Barrel Sample) - This showed a deep ruby color and the nose was a bit closed. The medium full bodied flavors were replete with wild fruits (Boysenberries, huckleberries, currants) and notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and earth, followed by pressed berries, nuts, lanolin and charcoal, followed by a long finish. Great potential, should go to 19.5/20 points with age.