Details

This year, Fall Release Weekend in Walla Walla was November 5-7. Many new wines were poured at most wineries. I had already tasted most of them before the first weekend of November (see last week's blog posting below for a preview of those wines. Here's what we did during Fall Release Weekend.

To kick off Fall Release on Thursday, November 4, we had our friends, Jeff Freude and Laurie Wolf from Iowa, Stu and Barb Vos from North Carolina, Josh and Jodi Roznowski of Walla Walla and Jan Roskelley and son, Kyle of Milton-Freewater to our house for a boeuf Bourguignon dinner, centered on a vertical of 2010, 2009 and 2007 Domaine Vieux Telegraphe Châteauneuf du Pape "La Crau." All three were impressive, with the 2010 a standout for its sheer depth and old vine calcareous complexity (19.5/20 points). Jeff and Laurie had visited Doubleback and brought the 2017 Cabernet which was highly impressive, deep, well-structured and classically styled (19.5/20 points). Our guests had raided the Roskelley's wine collection and brought over a 1999 Stag's Leap Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 23. The cork broke up, but the wine came through okay, showing mature complexity. The 2005 Bunchgrass Walla Walla Valley Founder's Blend was past its' peach but still holding up.

On Friday, I took a friend, Bill Henry, to Reynvaan to taste the 2019 Syrahs and some library wines. The standouts were the 2018 In the Rocks Syrah (with 10% Viognier), an elegantly bold and graceful wine with tremendous depth and complexity (20/20 points) and the 2016 In the Rocks Syrah (also co-fermented with Viognier) which showed amazing depth and complexity (20/20 points). Also outstanding were the 2017 In the Rocks and 2015 In the Hills (19.5/20 points). Of the 2019's, the Stonessence from In the Rocks, was sensational from beginning to end, and the Foothills Reserve from the Foothills in the Sun Vineyard was also amazing, sultry and exotic, with superb balance (20/20 points). Also outstanding were the 2019 The Contender, In the Rocks and In the Hills Syrahs (19.5/20 points). Also poured was the 2019 Queen's Road Marsanne-Viognier from In the Rocks, rich and viscous yet steely and crisp (19.5/20 points).

On Saturday, Lynn and I went to the Foundry Gallery opening which exhibited art works from Mark and Patty Anderson's personal collection from artists who worked with the Foundry over the years. There, we had the tasty newly released 2018 Artisan Red Blend (19/20 points - full review to be in the December issue) whose label displayed Keiko Hara's "The Field and the Sky," a tribute to Mark Anderson who passed away in 2019. 

After the Foundry, we went over to the VUE where the Iowa and North Carolina visitors were staying for a lasagne dinner along with the Rozonowskis and Jan Roskelley. We started off with a preview of Josh's new Smoky Rose sparkling wine and 2004 Bollinger Grand Reserve Champagne. The centerpiece wines were the 2011, 2010 and 2009 Château Grand Pontet from Pauillac, a property that was upgraded in 2004 by Guy Tesseron, elevating the Third Growth to a wine of First Growth caliber. The 2010 and 2009 vintages were 100 point wines. They did not disappoint. The 2010 and 2009 were monumental wines (20/20 points) and the 2011 a near great wine (19.5/20 points). The Bordelais would look askance on serving a Grand Cru Bordeaux with lasagne, but it worked. To give the dinner an Italian touch, I opened a 2013 Ciacci di Piccolomini Pianrosso Brunello di Montalcino which was fabulous (19.5/20 points). The dinner was topped off by a 1997 Fonseca Vintage Port, just rounding out beautifully (19.5/20 points).

On Sunday, I stopped by DAMA wines to taste three new releases, a tasty 2019 GSM (19/20 points), a 2018 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot (19/20 points) and an outstanding 2018 Cabernet from the Heather Hill Vineyard (19+/20 points) - full reviews to be in the December issue. Then on Monday, Lynn and I wrapped up at L'Ecole No 41 with a tasting of the new 2018 releases: Perigee (19.5/20 points), Apogee (19.5/20 points), Ferguson Vineyard Cabernet (20/20 points) and Erudite Estate Red fro the Ferguson and Seven Hills vineyards (20/20 points) - to be reviewed in the December issue. 

Details

This year, Fall Release Weekend will be November 5 - 7. In the past, before COVID 19, Fall Releases were big events with crowded tasting rooms. Not so much anymore. Appointments are required or recommended at many places. For those of you who are making the trek over here, here's a preview of wines in the December issue which will be poured next weekend. There will be a lot of outstanding wines: 12 scoring 19 or 19+/20 points, 8 scoring 19.5/20 points and 3 scoring 20/20 points. So there's a lot to look for this weekend.

Sleight of Hand Cellars has a lovely 2019 "Enchantress" Chardonnay from the French Creek Vineyard (19+/20 points), a charming 2019 "Sorceress" Reserve Grenache (19+/20 points) and a thick and true to variety 2019 "Levitation" Syrah from the Les Collines (67%) and Lewis (33%) vineyards (19+/20 points).

Saviah Cellars has a tasty young 2019 Grenache from the Dugger Creek Vineyard (19/20 points).

àMaurice Cellars has released a quartet of outstanding 2018 reds: the "ReRe" Artist Red Blend (19+/20 points), the "Amparo" Estate Malbec (19+/20 points). the "Night Owl" Red Wine (19+/20 points), and the 2018 "Owl & Crown" Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (19.5/20 points).

Valdemar Estates is presenting wonderfully balanced 2019 French Creek Chardonnay 19.5/20 points), a powerful 2019 Seven Hills Malbec, with 5% Syrah (19.5/20 points) and a dynamic 2019 Blue Mountain Syrah (19.5/20 points). 

Canvasback will be showcasing the new 2019 Red Mountain Syrah from the Red Heaven Vineyard (19+/20 points), an elegant, Pinot-like Walla Walla Valley Syrah (19+/20 points), a 2018 "GSM" Red Mountain Red Wine (19+/20 points), and three Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignons from distinct terroirs: Longwinds Vineyard (19.5/20 points), Klipsun Vineyard (19.5/20 points) and Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (19.5/20 points).

Rôtie Cellars has five highly recommended reds: 2019 "Little g" Grenache from the Devil's Gate Vineyard near Maryhill (19.5/20 points), 2019 "Dre" Mourvèdre (19.5/20 points), the monumental 2019 "Big G" Estate Grenache (20/20 points) and two clonal Syrahs, the 2019 "Love Rocks" ENTAV Clone 470 (20/20 points) and 2019 ENTAV Tablas Creek Clone (20/20 points).

Da Ma Wines has two new 2018 red from highly respected Walla Walla Valleyvineyards: the Seven Hills Merlot (19/20 points) and Heather Hill Cabernet Sa=uvignon (19+/20 points).

Details

Last Wednesday, October 20, Lynn and I hosted a tasting of Syrahs from the North Rhône Valley (Côte Rôtie, Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Saint Joseph and Cornas) and from the Washington and Oregon sides of the Walla Walla Valley plus one each from Red Mountain and the Yakima Valley, providing a cross section of wines for comparison. Here are my notes and scores.

2019 Saviah Cellars "The Stones Speak" Estate Syrah, Walla Walla Valley - This came on as a typical young Syrah from the "Rocks." Deep purplish colored, it emitted rich aromas of blackberry, blueberry, black currant, crushed roses, lavender, olive and spiced incense. It should age beautifully. 19+/20 points.

2016 Cayuse Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, En Cerise Vineyard - This is a typical Cayuse Syrah from the Rocks. It showed an medium garnet color and rich, earthy aromas of raspberry, blueberry, currant and incense and fleshy flavors that were rounding out and leading into a gamy, earthy mouthfeel and a lengthy finish. 19.5/20 points. 

2015 Côtes de Ciel Syrah, Red Mountain, Ciel du Cheval Vineyard - This is a distinctive Syrah from a prestigious vineyard, planted in the 1980's. It showed a rich, smoky nose and considerable old vine character, dusty Red Mountain earth and and a chewy texture followed by a maturing finish. 19/20 points.

2015 No Girls Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, La Paciencia Vineyard - This was strikingly Côte Rotie like, with a maturing ruby color and rich, smoky aromas and supple, yet vigorous flavors that showed the distinctive Rocks cobblestone and dust, followed by a lingering herb and spice dusted smooth tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

2013 Rôtie Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley - Co-fermeted with 5% Viognier, this emulates a Côte Rotie. It showed a garnet color and rich, smoky aromas of semi-dried dark fruits and developing flavors of ripe fruits, orange peel, and earth. On the back the wine rounded out with roasted fruits and nuts on a savory finish. 19/20 points.

2013 Owen-Roe Syrah, Yakima Valley, Red Willow Vineyard, Chapel Block - From the first vineyard to be planted with Syrah in 1983, this was outstanding. It showed a deep color and rich, smoky aromas and spices, with notes of bacon and nuts. The flavors were rounding out beautifully, leading into a long i=finish. 19+/20 points.

2011 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Foothills Reserve Syrah, Walla Walla Valley - From the Estate Vineyard in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, this showed smoky, exotic perfumes and firm, classic Syrah flavored, marked by silty minerals and roasted fruits and nuts and a long firm finish.19/20 points.

2018 Paul Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine de Thalabert - This comes from one of the top properties just north of Hermitage. It showed a ruby-crimson color and rich aromas of dark fruits, lavender and incense with direct, pure Syrah flavors and a lasting finish. 19/20 points.

2017 Barruol-Lynch Côte-Rotie, "La Boisselée" - Deep ruby colored, this possessed a perfumed nose of wild fruits, lavender, violets and orange peel. The flavors were chewy textured with a long, complex finish, marked by distinct "Roasted Slope" character. 19.5/20 points.

2015 Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph, "Cavanos" - From south of Côte Rotie, this displayed a deep ruby-garnet color and rich, smoky aromas of dark fruits, orange peel, lavender and incense. The flavors were full, round and well developed, with a long chewy textured finish. 19+/20 points.

2015 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas "Terres Brulées" - A top notch Cornas. It showed a deep ruby color and intense aromas of dark fruits, lavender and violets, with mouth-filling, authoritative flavors and a long, maturing, complex finish. 19.5/20 points.

2015 Delas Hermitage, "Domaine des Tourettes" - This is Hermitage Syrah at its best. It possessed a deep ruby color and a brooding nose of dark fruits, lavender, violets, smoked meats and incense. The flavors were fill and authoritative with minerals earth and a long, firm finish. 19.5/20 points.

 

Details

Harvest 2021 a Wrap

It's a tradition at many wineries that when the last grape pick has been crushed, the workers break out the Champagne (the real stuff) to celebrate. Many wineries finished harvesting at the end of September and most done the first two weeks of October. Quality should be excellent. With the crop down about 30% and with smaller berries, the concentration will be higher than usual and the phenolics) will add more aromatics. See the September 24 blog posting below for more about how the growing season developed.

Some Interesting Wines Tasted Recently

Here are some wines that are particularly interesting, with tasting notes that show why they are distinctive.

2020 Xarmant Txakolina White Wine ($7.00 - 250 ml. can - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Xarmant is pronounced "charming" in Basque. This name is apt. Made from the indigenous Txakolina grape, this wine displays a brilliant light gold color and fresh aromas green apple, melon and lime, with scents of spring flowers, jasmine and wet stone. The jump out of the can flavors are fresh and vibrant, with notes of grape and apple skins and minerals, followed by a brisk, nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Naia Rueda ($12.99 - Esquin) - Made from 40 year-old Verdejo vines, this Spanish white shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and intriguing aromas of green apple, peach, melon, lime, apple blossoms, a hint of ginger, and green incense. The flavors, as well, are distinctive, with white and green fruits that are accented by grape skins, melon rind and calcareous minerals. The well textured back (from lees aging) picks up apple and peach liqueurs and lime zest on the way to a crisp finish. 18+/20 points.

2018 Orr Merlot, Columbia Valley, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($25) - We reviewed this wine in August (18.5/20 points) and had it again last Sunday with dinner at the Cox's. Erica Orr really knows how to make user-friendly wines. Blended with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows a medium ruby color and engaging red fruit aromas and medium bodied but substantial flavors, marked by Royal Slope stony minerals, that finish ripe and smooth yet vigorous. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Fortuity Cellars "Le Classique" Red Wine, Yakima Valley ($40) - This is a blend of one-third each of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. We had it with the Cox's last Sunday. It shows a deep ruby-crimson color and engaging aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, herbs and incense. The flavors are thick and generous, intensifying on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts and kirsch, followed by a lingering sweet dry tannin finish. 19/20 points. Reviewed March 2012, same score.

2016 Force Majeure Syrah, Red Mountain ($70) - We reviewed this wine in June 2019, following a visit to the winery facility near Milton-Freewater. The Cox's served it last Sunday. It is a superb rendtion of Red Mountain Syrah. With intense aromas of black and blue fruits, varietal purity, and mouth-encompassig flavors that are rounding out beautifully, along with terroir-driven character, this truly delivers. 19.5/20 points. Same score June 2019.

2019 Jean-Philippe Fichet Rully Blanc ($35 - The Thief) - From the Côte Chalonnais, south of the Côte D'Or, this is a distinctive Chardonnay. It displays a brilliant lemon-gold color and striking aromas of pear-apple, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and wet stone. The flavors are well focused, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and Saone Valley alluvial minerals. The back reveals poire and peach liqueurs and toast, followed by a steely yet satiny finish. 19/20 points.

2015 Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas ($34.99 - Esquin) - Composed of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 8% Mourvèdre and 2% Cinsault, this a beefy yet refined South Rhone red. It shows a deep ruby-garnet color and rich aromas of raspberry, plum, currant, crushed roses, garrigue, smoked meats and spiced incense. The flavors are round yet well packed, with layers of red and blue fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa and Montmirial minerals. The chewy textured back reveals roasted berries and fruits, creme de cassis and charcoal,nfollowd by a long, rich finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2016 Domaine de la Touraize Arbois Trousseau, "Les Corvées" ($35 - The Thief) - Arbois is in the Pays du Jura, northeast of Burgundy and Trousseau is an indigenous grape. It shows a medium ruby-garnet color and intriguing aromas of raspberry, bayberry, plum, orange peel, dried roses, tobacco, and orange incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with notes of licorice, powdered cocoa orange pekoe tea and Jurassic minerals. The chewy textured back picks up roasted berries and nuts and recurring orange peel, followed by a slightly grainy moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.

Details

GSM stands for Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre and is sometimes used as an abbreviation name for wines made of a combination of these grapes. Here's what these grapes bring to these wines.

Grenache gives suppleness and berry-like flavors to the wines. Syrah provides body and depth. And Mourvèdre adds tannins and aromatics (phenolics) . The proportions of these grapes vary according to the winemaker's style. Some other South Rhone varieties such as Cinsault and Counoise may be added, usually in smaller percentages.

Here are some of the principal areas where wines are made from these varieties.

Châteauneuf du Pape - This is the best known South Rhone appellation. Named for the residence of the Avignon Popes, the wines can consist of up to fifteen varieties, but are usually mostly Grenache (up to 80%) with some Syrah and Mourvèdre and occasionally Cinsault and or Counoise. The are wines typically rich and generous yet deep and complex.

Gigondas - This appellation is located northeast of Avignon in the foothills of the Montmirail Mountains. Here, too, Grenache is the predominant grape with portions of Syrah and Mourvèdre. The wines are a bit more rugged and less complex than those of Châteauneuf du Pape.

Côtes du Rhone Villages - Situated around Gigondas and Avignon are other satellite appellations, including Tavel and Lirac, similar to Châteauneuf du Pape and Rasteau and Vacqueyras near Gigondas. 

Here are some South Rhone wines that were reviewed recently in the Review Blog:

2018 Famille Perrin Gigondas, "La Gille" ($35.99) - Fine value from a respected producer. Reviewed August 18. 18.5+/20 points.

2017 Jaboulet Gigondas, "Pierre Aguille" ($23.99) - An excellent value, comprised of 80% Grenache and 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre. Reviewed August 18. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Lavau Gigondas ($27.99) - Comprised of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, this is another good value. Reviewed August 18. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Alain Jaume Gigondas, "Terrasses de Montmirail" ($37.99) - From old vines, this possesses great depth and complexity. Reviewed August 18. 19/20 points.

2018 Famille Perrin Châteauneuf du Pape, "Les Sinards" ($41.99) - From the owners of the prestigious Château de Beaucastel, this is an impressive value. Reviewed July 1. 19/20 points.

2017 Grand Veneur Châteauneuf du Pape, "Le Miocene" ($56.99) - This old vine blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre is outstanding. Reviewed June 23. 19+/20 points.

Here are some Washington GSM wines that were in recent issues of the Review of Washington Wines:

2019 Walla Walla Vintners "GSM" Red Blend, Red Mointain ($42) - 60% Syrah, 22% Grenache and 12% Mourvèdre. Reviewed October. 19/20 points.

2019 L'Ecole No 41 "GSM" Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley, Seven Hills Vineyard ($39) - One third each of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Reviewed October. 19/20 points. 

2020 Foundry Vineyards GSM" Red Wine, Columbia Valley, Conley Vineyard ($40) - 38% Grenache, 33% Syrah and 29% Mourvedre, partially carbonic fermented. Reviewed October. 19/20 points.

2018 The Walls "The Ramparts" Red Wine, Red Mountain ($38) - 47% Mourvedre, 22% Syrah, 18% Grenache, 13% Counoise. Reviewed September. 19/20 points.

2018 Helix "SoRho" Red Wine, Wahluke Slope, Weinbau Vineyard ($46) - 49% Mourvedre, 28% Grenache, 23% Cinsault. Reviewed September. 19/20 points.

2018 Cairdeas "Caslan an Papa" Red Wine, Yakima Valley, Boushey Vineyard ($55) - 27% Syrah, 23% Grenache, 22% Mourvedre, 17% Cinault, 11% Counoise. Reviewed September. 19+/20 points.

Here are six wines to be reviewed in the November issue (on line October 25):

2019 The Walls "The Ramparts" Red Wine, Red Mountain ($38) - 53% Grenache, 22% Mourvedre, 14% Counoise, 11% Syrah. 19/20 points.

2019 Avennia "Justine" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($40) - 67% Grenache, 23% Mourvedre, 15% Syrah. 19/20 points.

2019 DeLille Cellars "Métier" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($45) - 42% Grenache, 23% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah, 2% Cinsault. 19/20 points.

2018 Eight Bells "Southern Voyage" Red Wine, Yakima Valley ($38) - 39% Grenache, 17% Cinsault, 14% Counoise, 13% Marsanne, 4% Mourvèdre. 19/20 points.

2019 Numbskull Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($38) - 53% Syrah, 25% Mourvèdre, 22% Grenache. 19/20 points.

2019 Board Track Racer "The Shift" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($28) - 50% Mourvèdre, 47% Syrah, 3% Grenache. 18.5/20 points.

  1. The 2018 and 2019 Vintages Compared
  2. Harvest 2021 Update / More New Wines
  3. Coming up in October & November / New Rosès
  4. Esquin Specials / Pouilly-Fuissé