A Tasting of French Sauvignon Blancs

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 31 May 2019

Last night, Thursday May 30, I joined the Sons of Bacchus and Daughters of Dionysus for a tasting of French Sauvignon Blancs. It was a very interesting tasting. Sauvignon Blanc is largely thought of as a Bordeaux white varietal, but more is grown in the Loire Valley. The tasting was comprised of 18 wines (too many!)for 12 tasters. Below are the wines that were of the greatest interest, with my notes and scores. 

2010 Domaine Gerard Boulay Sancerre, Clos Beaujeu - This showed that Sauvignon Blanc can age well. It showed a gold color and a floral nose of pear, peach, citrus, pear blossoms, lemon verbena and flint stone. The flavors were distinct, dry and saline with a dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Guiraud Bordeaux Blanc Sec - This is a dry white from Chateau Guiraud in Sauternes. It showed a light gold color and intriguing aromas of pear, peach, melon, lemon curd and wet stone. The flavors were crisp and minerals, with fine delineation. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Gittau Pouilly-Fumé Clos Joanne d'Orion ($35) - Pouilly-sur Loire is across the river from Sancerre and the wines are similar. This one displayed a light gold color and flowery aromas of white lilac, wildflowers, wet stone and whiffs of smoke. The flavors comprised typical Upper Loire Sauvignon, with notes of minerals and precise fruits. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Henri Bourgeois Sancerre, "Les Baronnes" ($29.99 - wine.com) - Henri Bourgeois is a respected producer in Sancerre. The cuvée showed a light gold color and typical aromas of pear, peach, wet stone and smoke, with nicely fruited and delineated flavors that finish dry and balanced. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Henri Bourgeois Sancerre, "Les Monts Damnées" ($36.99 - wine.com) - This tête cuvée was outstanding. It showed a lemon-gold color and aromas of apple. gooseberry, lemon curd, jasmine, wildflowers and smoke. The flavors were elegant and finely delineated, with notes of flint stone and grape skins, followed by a long, precise finish. 19/20 points.

2016 Château Carbonnieux Graves Blanc ($36) - This was by far the best Bordeaux Blanc of the tasting. Composed of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, it exhibited a medium gold color and rich aromas of pear, peach, lime, meadow flowers and jasmine. The flavors were saline and precise, marked by the classic "Graves" mineralogy. The finish was long, dry and invigorating. 19/20 points. 

2017 Domaine Thomas Sancerre, "Les Comtesses" ($29.99 - wine.com) - This was another fine Sancerre. Lemon gold colored, it possessed a nice perfumed nose of pear, peach, lime, gooseberries, white flowers and white smoke. The flavors were saline and precise, with a long, steely but finely fruited finish. 19/20 points.

2015 Blanc de Chasse Spleen Bordeaux Blanc - This was another fine Bordeaux Blanc. Brilliant lemon-gold colored, it emitted floral aromas of apple, citrus, peach and lemon verbena. The flavors were balanced and precise, with notes of straw and minerals, and a touch of toasty oak. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Domaine Fleuret Sancerre, "Côte de Marloup" - This was a nicely aged Sancerre. It showed a gold color and a smoky nose of pear, peach and gunflint. The flavors were well delineated, underlain with a fine richness and a long, crisp, finely balanced finish. 18.5+/20 points.

There also were two other Bordeaux Blanc wines, a 2017 and 2016 Blanc de Lynch Bages. Both came on as being pleasant but uncomplex and middleweight. Given the prestige of Lynch Bages, it is outrageous that such wines should be offered at $60 a bottle. 

I brought two bonus wines, a 2018 Sancerre Rosé from Isabelle Garrault and a 2017 Domaine Thomas Sancerre Rouge. Sancerre is thought of as being white wine, Sauvignon Blanc. But some red and rosé is produced from Pinot Noir. Everyone liked both wines.

Celebrating Fifty Years in the Wine Industry

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 24 May 2019

On Sunday, May 19, there was Celebration of Rand Sealey's Fifty Years in the Wine Industry. Over seventy guests attended the event, held at the Foundry Vineyards Gallery on Abadie Street in Walla Walla. Food from Hattaway's was served and lots of wine, mostly French and Italian with some German and American ones, were poured. Sheets were handed out with my story about how I got into the wine industry in 1969. Here it is:

How I Got into the Wine Industry

I spent the summer of 1968 in Europe. I bought a Triumph Spitfire roadster which I picked up in Coventry. I drove around England and Scotland, then took the car ferry to Calais and drove through France where I visited Burgundy and the North Rhone. I continued on to Italy and Germany and along the way, visited wineries and drank wine at restaurants. That trip is what initiated by interest in wine.

The following years, the Washington State Legislature passed a law allowing retailers to sell out of state wines as well as those of Washington. My father and I became interested in exploring the wine business. I was a graduate History student at the University of Washington, but the idea of selling wine seemed more appealing than an academic career. In May, we visited Esquin Imports in San Francisco and one of the owners, Karl Petrowsky, asked us if we would be interested in opening an Esquin store in Seattle. Sure, we were! One thing led to anther and in June, 1969, we reached an agreement to start an Esquin store in Seattle.

My Father had his eye one a building next door to his medical clinic on First Avenue South and Atlantic Street in Seattle. It was a five story building which had an underground basement - perfect for wine storage. The San Francisco store also had underground storage. We went through the incorporation, liquor license application and lease agreement processes and just six months later, we opened in December of 1969.

Another model adopted from Esquin-San Francisco was the publication of newsletters mailed to customers describing wines I offered. That's how I became a wine writer. Esquin-Seattle's marketing, though, was not limited to newsletters. There were numerous attention-getting newspaper and magazine ads created by David Horsfall and Terri Nakamura. 

Over the ensuing years, I was a wine merchant at Esquin-Seattle. Initially, I had a partner, but two years later, I bought him out and ran the business solo, churning out those newsletters and selling wine. Many trips to California, Europe and once to Australia were involved. Karl Petrowsky left Esquin-San Francisco and I continue to work with the other owner, Ken Kew, who eventually sold his store. For a while, I had another partner, Jim Kunz, help me until he sold his interest.

After 27 years in the business, I sold Esquin to Chuck LeFevre in 1998. For the following 10 years, I worked as his consultant, writing the Esquin newsletter. The 2008 recession necessitated laying me off. After that, I decided to begin an on-line newsletter about Washington State wines. By that time, my wife, Lynn, and I moved part-time to Walla Walla, and then in 2013, full-time. Wine writing, therefore, became a continuing career in the wine industry. It is still a rewarding endeavor - with the encouragement of Lynn, many friends consumer and wine industry people. I am highly grateful and I thank you all.

 

 

International 2018 Rosés and 2017 Beaujolais

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 14 May 2019

Over the past few weeks, we have been sampling a bunch of Rosé wines, mostly from France, but including some from other countries. Here are my notes.

French Rosés

2018 Château de Campuget Costières de Nimes Rosé ($10.19 - Safeway) - Composed 30% Grenache Noir and 70% Syrah, this Southwest Rhone Rosé offers a light pink-copper color and attractive aromas of pink peach, red cherry, pink grapefruit, cherry blossoms, lavender and white incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with notes of grape skin, peach stone and kirsch, followed by a nicely fruited dry finish. At just over $10 a bottle, this is a bargain. 18/20 points.

2018 Château de Campuget "1753" Costières de Nimes Rosé ($18.99 - wine.com) - This Reserve bottling is 80% Syrah and 20% Verementino. It shows a light copper-pink color and aromas of raspberry, pink peach, and orange peel. The Vermentino (a Mediterranean variety) Introduces intriguing scents of orange blossoms, lavender and white incense. The flavors are nicely extracted, with notes peach stone, orange peel and minerals and the back picks up framboise pêche liqueurs on the dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Triennes Rosé Mediteranée ($17.99 - wine.com) - The back label states "At the center of the blend is the Consult which provided freshness and elegance." It shows a light copper-pink color and floral aromas of strawberries, red currants, pink grapefruit, spring flowers, lavender and white incense. The flavors are charming, deftly extracted, imbued with fraise and cassis liqueurs and citrus peel, followed by a nicely fruited finish. Its vivacity gives it a plus. 18.5+/20 points.

2018 Gérard Bertrand "Côtes des Roses" Languedoc Rosé ($13.99 - Safeway) - This combinaton of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault offers a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, orange peel, red roses, pink lilac and whiffs of incense. The flavors are appealing with bright fruits that are accented by grape skin, fraise liqueur, pomegranate seeds and recurring orange peel, followed by a fresh finish. 18+/20 points.

2018 AIX Côteaux de Provence Rosé ($18.99 - wine.com) - Light copper-tinged pink colored, this possesses attractive aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, red currant and tangerine, with scents of wildflowers, lavender and Provençal herbs. The flavors are light and sprightly, with notes of grape skin, tangerine peel and minerals. The back picks ups fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel on the nicely fruited dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Château La Roque Pic Saint-Loup Rosé ($19.99 - wine.com) - Composed of 40% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache and 30% Syrah this comes on like a white wine from red grapes. Light gold colored, it possesses aromas of pink peach, cantaloupe, grapefruit, Rainier cherry, spring flowers and white incense. The flavors are exuberantly fresh and juicy with grape skins, melon rind and saline minerals. The back picks up kirsch and grapefruit peel followed by a zingy finish. For fans of pale rosés, this gets 18.5/20 points.

2018 Rimauresq "cru classé" Côtes de Provence Rosé ($21.99 - wine.com) - Light copper colored, this offers attractive aromas of strawberry, pear, pink peach and grapefruit with scents of pear blossoms, lavender and white incense. The flavors are bright and fresh, with notes of grape skin, peach stone and minerals. The back reveals fraise and pêche liqueurs and grapefruit peel, followed by a crisp dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

German Rosé

2018 Villa Wolf Pinot Noir Rosé, Pfalz ($13.99 - wine.com) - This is a delightful sipping rosé. It shows a brilliant pink-copper color and enticing aromas of strawberries, cherries, pink grapefruit, cherry blossoms, and spring flowers. The flavors are deliciously crisp and clean, with notes of grape skin and citrus peel. The back picks up strawberry and cherry liqueurs and a bit of spritz on the way to a zippy, not too dry finish. 18/20 points.

Oregon Rosés

2018 Willamette Valley Vineyards "Whole Cluster" Rosé of Pinot Noir ($16.29 - Safeway) - Produced from free run uncrushed grapes, this shows a brilliant pink color and enticing aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, watermelon, pink roses, pink lilac and white incense. The flavors, as well, are attractive, with fresh, pure Pinot fruits dancing on the palate, accented by fraise and cerise liqueurs and melon rind, followed by a crisp finish. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Stoller Family Estate Pinot Noir Rosé, Willamette Valley ($20.29 - Safeway) - Harvested manually, this offers a brilliant pink color and lovely aromas of wild strawberries, cranberries and red currants with scents of red rose petals, pink lilac and white incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with nicely extracted red fruits that are imbued with grape skin, fraise and cassis liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a juicy finish. 18.5/20 points.

Watch for the June issue of the Review of Washington Wines which goes on line May 24 for new reviews of Washington Rosés.

The 2017 Beaujolais Wines

One of Burgundy's most popular wines is Beaujolais, produced in the region between the Maconnais and Lyons. The principal grape is Gamay which was grown widely in Burgundy during the middle ages until 1395, when the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold ("Le Hardi") banned the production of Gamay, which he considered inferior to Pinot Noir, in the Côte d'Or. This pushed the Gamay grape southward. But, while not as noble as Pinot Noir, the wines of Beaujolais are very fine, indeed. We have been sampling some 2017 Beaujolais and have found them most enjoyable.

2017 Domaines Dominique Piron Brouilly ($19.99 - wine.com) - Purplish ruby colored, this possesses enticing aromas of strawberries, red currants, red prunes, red roses, mulberry, purple lilac and brambles. The flavors are charmingly ripe and fleshy, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and granitic minerals. The back reveals pressed berries and fraise and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a pleasingly juicy moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaines Dominique Piron Morgon, Côte du Py ($19.99 - wine.com) - This shows a ruby-crimson color and rich, earthy aromas of fraises de bois, black currants and plums with scents of crushed roses, mulberry and sweet spiced incense. The flavors are ample, yet deep and focused, marked by licorice, cocoa powder and granitic minerals. The back reveals pressed berries, fraise and cassis liqueurs and toffee, followed by a ripe, chewy moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Château Thivin Brouilly "Reverdon" ($26.99 - wine.com) - From the lower slopes of Brouilly, this shows a ruby color and rich aromas of strawberries, red currants, rosebuds, bayberry, sweet pea flowers and whiffs of incense. The flavors are ample and mouth filling, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder and earth. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and touches of nougat and orange peel, followed by a juicy moderate tannin finish that is lifted by bright fruit acids. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly ($29.99 - wine.com) - The Côte de Brouilly is the slope above Brouilly. This version displays a semi opaque purple-crimson color and a seductive nose of raspberry, black currant, plum, roses petals and violets. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with vigorous yet velvety red and black fruits that are endowed with licorice, cocoa and schist minerals. The penetration continues on the back with pressed fruits, roasted nuts, light charcoal and balanced tannins. Invigorating fruit acids bring this wine to a highly satisfying finish. 19/20 points.

2017 Jean-Marc Burgaud Beaujolais-Villages "Les Vignes de Latigné" ($18.99 - wine.com) - This presents a ruby color and attractive aromas of fraises de bois, red currants, red roses, mulberry and wood smoke. The medium bodied flavors are ripe and generous yet robust, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder and earth. The back reveals gently pressed berries, fraise and cassis liqueurs and touches of mocha and toffee, followed by a ripe moderate tannin finish. 18+/20 points.

2017 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon, Côte du Py ($21.99 - wine.com) - Ruby-crimson colored, this wine emits rich, earthy aromas of raspberry, black currant and plum with scents of rosebuds, brambles and incense. The robust flavors mirror the aromatics with thick and direct red and black fruits that are intermixed with licorice, dark cocoa and earth. The chewy textured back picks up roasted berries and nuts, followed by a grainy yet juicy moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon, "Les Charmes" ($23.99 - wine.com) - This is a robust yet charming Morgon. It shows a deep ruby color and smoky aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, crushed roses, purple lilac and wood smoke. The flavors are generous yet focused, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, French roast and granitic minerals. The chewy textured back reveals roasted berries and nuts, framboise and cerise liqueurs and graphite followed by a slightly grainy ripe tannin finish. The elegance gives it a plus. 18.5+/20 points.

2017 Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent, "Vieilles Vignes" *($27.99 - wine.com) - This shows a deep ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of fraises de bois, raspberry, red currants, red roses, forest carpet and oriental incense. The flavors are medium bodied yet vigorous, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and minerals earth. The back picks up pressed berries, creme de cassis, framboise and touches of nougat and orange peel, followed by a chewy ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Clos de la Roillette Fleurie ($24.99 - wine.com) - Medium ruby colored, this possesses a rich, earthy nose of fraises de bois, red currants, cherries, red roses and whiffs of tobacco and white incense. The flavors are supple, yet authoritative, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder, medium roast coffee and schist minerals. On the back, the wine picks up intensity, with sensations of macerated berries, grilled meats, and kirsch and cassis liqueurs, followed by a velvety moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine Chignard Fleurie, "Les Moriers" ($27.99 - wine.com) - Deep purplish ruby colored, this wine emits lovely aromas of fraises de bois, framboise and cassis, with scents of crushed roses, violets and incense. The flavors are medium bodied but vigorous, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder and stony minerals. The back reveals sensations of gently pressed berries, toasted nuts, creme de cassis and soft graphite, followed by a smooth yet penetrating moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2017 Domaine Chignard Juliénas, "Beauvernay" ($25.99 - wine.com) - This wine presents a deep purplish ruby color and aromas of fraises de bois, black currant, cherries and plums with scents of black roses, purple lilac and wood smoke. The flavors mirror the aromatics with red and purple fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and minerals. The back picks up kirsch and creme de cassis liqueurs, followed by a chewy, ripe moderate tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

Most Beaujolais is red wine but a small amount of white wine from the Chardonnay grape is made as well as some Rosé from the Gamay grape. 

2017 Jean-Marc Bourgaud Beaujolais-Villages Blanc ($22.99 - wine.com) - This Chardonnay sports a brilliant lemon-gold color and fresh aromas of Bosc pear, white peach, grapefruit, pear blossoms, acacia flowers and white incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, true to variety, with notes of peach stones and granitic minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and grapefruit peel, followed by a crisp, nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine du Thoulon Beaujolais-Villages Rosé ($11.99 - wine.com) - Brilliant copper-pink colored, this possesses intriguing aromas of wild strawberries, pomegranates, orange peel, rose petals, pink lilac and white incense. The flavors are nicely fruited and extracted, with notes of grape skins, pomegranate seeds and minerals. The back picks up fraise liqueur and recurring orange eel, followed by a pleasantly juicy finish. 18/20 points. 

 

 

 

 

 

A Tasting of German Rieslings

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 08 May 2019

On Sunday, April 28, Lynn and I hosted a tasting of German Riesling. The wines in the line up ranged from dry (trocken) to medium dry/slightly sweet (Cabinet) to sweet (Spätlese). The major wine producing regions were also represented: the Mosel, Ruwer, Nahe, Rheingau and Pfalz. Here are my notes in the order of tasting and approximate degree of sweetness.

2016 Karthäuserfof Riesling trocken, Ruwer ($31.99) - Trocken means dry in German. This version from the Ruwer, a tributary of the Mosel, showed a greenish gold color and ripe aromas of pear, peach, apricot, with lively juicy minerally flavors. The finish was dry, but not at all austere. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Dönhoff Riesling trocken, Nahe ($28 - The Thief, Walla Walla) - Brilliant gold colored, this wine possessed a floral nose of pear, peach, pear tree blossoms, clover and wet stone. The finish was dry and finely fruited, imbued with persistent minerality. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Riesling Kabinett, Mosel ($27.99) - This was a fine rendition of Mittel Mosel Riesling. It showed a brilliant lemon-gold color and a floral nose of pear, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, wildflowers. The flavors were ripe and minerally, with notes of pear and peach liqueurs and a pleasing off-dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Maximin Grunhaus Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett, Ruwer ($32.99) - This was made in a somewhat lighter, elegant style. It showed a gold color and lovely aromas of apple, white peach, citrus, apple blossoms and white flowers. The flavors were vivid, almost laser-like, with distinct riverside minerals. The back picked up touches of spritz and almond on the slightly sweet finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2016 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Ürziger Würzgartern Riesling Kabinett, Mosel ($32.99) - This was a fine example of medium dry (slightly sweet) Mosel Riesling. Light gold colored, it possessed delicate aromas of wild fruits, pear blossoms and white incense. The slate stone imbued flavors were charming and the finish finely fruited and resonant. 18.5/20 points.

2009 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonneuhr Riesling Kabinett, Mosel (donated by Smith & Bernards) - This was a fine example of maturing Mosel Riesling. Light gold colored, it showed lovely exotic perfumes along with peach and straw notes. The flavors were starting to turn dryish, yet still finely fruited, with a long, complex finish. 19/20 points.

2017 Darting Dürkheimer Hochbenn Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz ($17.99) - This showed a medium gold color and fresh, young aromas of white fruits, citrus and white incense. The flavors were in a nicely fruited style with a bit of earth ("bodensmack") and a pleasing off-dry finish. Fine value. 18/20 points.

2016 Eugen Müller Forster Mariengarten Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz ($17.99) - This was another fine value from the Pfalz. It offered a light gold color and intriguing aromas of white fruits, citrus and touches of anise and white incense. The flavors were crisp and citrusy. finishing off-dry. 18/20 points.

2017 Schlossgut Diel Riesling Kabinett, Nahe ($25.99) - This showed a light gold color and intriguing aromas of pear, white peach, grapefruit and wet stone. The flavors were direct and laser-like with touches of peach stone and spritz, followed by an off-dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2009 Müller Catoir Müssbach Riesling Kabinett, Pfalz (donated by Sabrina Lueck) - This showed intriguing aromas of peaches, nuts, banana and a bit of bodensmack. The flavors are generous and round, smoothed by some age, followed by a spicy medium dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese, Mosel ($36.99) - This was a fine example of Spätlese (late harvest). It showed a light gold color and a floral nose of pear, peach, apricot, citrus, clover and spiced incense. The flavors were medium bodied and elegant, with a long, spritz, slightly sweet finish, balanced by fine acidity. 19/20 points.

2016 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese, Mosel ($43.99) - This displayed a light gold color and ripe aromas pf pear, peach star fruit, pear tree blossoms and white incense. The flavors were delicate yet well delineated, with notes of slate and sun baked earth. On the back, the wine turned sweet and racy, with a long finely fruited finish. 19/20 points.

2015 Robert Weil Riesling Spätlese, Rheingau ($35.99) - From the hills high above the Rhine, this showed a deep gold color and rich ripe aromas of peach, apricot, sweet flowers and spiced white incense. The flavors were rich and unctuous, with the sweetness counterpointed by crisp acidity and a long spicy finish. 19/20 points.

All wines from wine.com unless otherwise noted.