New Rhone & Burgundy Wines

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 18 August 2021

Recently, we received a shipment of new vintages of Rhone Wines and Burgundies from wine.com, an on-line purveyor of a wide selection of wines from around the world. Here's what we got.

Tavel and Gigondas

Among our favorite wines are those of Tavel (Rosés) and Gigondas (Grenache based Reds).

2020 Domaine de la Modorée Tavel Rosé, "La Dame Rousse" ($36.99) - This is pricey for a Rosé, but worth it. It displays a brilliant copper-pink color and seductive aromas of fraises de bois, pomegranate, red currants, blood orange, pink roses, orange blossoms, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are well extracted, yet deft, with delicious red and pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, orange peel and mas minerals. The resonance continues on the back with fraise and cassis liqueurs and, again, orange peel, followed by s lingering, lightly spiced dry yet finely fruited finish. 19/20 points. This Domaine also makes an excellent Cotes du Rhone Rose ($26.99). See posting of July 1 below. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Famille Perrin Gigondas, "La Gille" ($35.99) - From a respected South Rhone producer, this offers a deep ruby color and rich, smoky aromas of wild raspberry, cranberry, brambly currant, orange peel, crushed wild roses, mulberry, pipe tobacco, garrigue, olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with generous, yet focused red and blue fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and Montmirial minerals. On the back, the wine opens up with pressed fruits, roasted nuts, framboise and crème de cassis liqueurs and charcoal, followed by a savory, juicy moderate tannin finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2017 Paul Jaboulet Gigondas, "Pierre Aiguille" ($23.99) - Composed of 80% Grenache and 10% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre, this displays a deep ruby color and enticing aromas of raspberry, black currant, crushed black roses, tobacco, black olive and spiced incense, The flavors are generous (typical of Grenache) yet focused, with loads of up front fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, French roast and rocky minerals. The penetration continues on the back with pressed fruits, framboise and cassis liqueurs, mocha, and charcoal, followed by a satisfying spiced, chewy finish. Delivers a lot of flavor for the price. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Lavau Gigondas ($27.99) - With 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, this is a robust Gigondas. It exhibits a deep ruby-crimson color and an intense nose of blackberry, black currant and black plum, with scents of black roses, pipe tobacco, garrigue (lavender and herbs), olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors are medium full-bodied, with ample, yet focused dark fruits that are infused with black licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and hillside minerals. On the back, the wine intensifies with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, crème de cassis, mocha and charcoal, followed by a savory ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points. Lavau also produces a bargain priced ($15.99) Tavel Rosé, reviewed below May 29. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Alain Jaume Gigondas, "Terrasses de Montmirial" ($37.99) - This boasts a semi opaque ruby color and an intoxicating nose of raspberry, black currant, black plum, black roses, dark tobacco, garrigue, olive tapenade and spiced incense. The flavors are thick and generous, yet focused, with layers of dark fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa, French roast and Montmirial terraces granitic minerals. The saturation continues on the back with macerated fruits, roasted nuts, crème de cassis, toffee and burnt charcoal followed by a lingering, savory (cardamom, clove) ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

The Burgundies of Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret

In 2014, on our trip to France, we visited Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret in Vosne-Romanée. We saw the ancient cellar and tasted outstanding wines. The Domaine owns extensive holdings in the Côtes de Nuit and Côtes de Beaune. When I recently found the wines being offered by wine.com, I put in an order for them.

2018 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($31.99) - All Domaine produced, this presents a deep ruby color and engaging aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, orange peel, crushed black roses, tobacco, sage and stick incense. The flavors are deliciously rich and supple, yet deep cored, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, pekoe tea and earth. The appeal continues on the back with pressed fruits, mocha, framboise and crème de cassis liqueurs, recurring orange peel and soft charcoal, all followed by a smooth moderate tannin finish, lifted by bright fruit acids. "Delicious," says Lynn. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits, "Les Dames Hughettes" ($36.99) - The Hautes Côtes is situated above the Côtes de Nuits. This wine is a fine example of high elevation Pinot Noir. It shows a brick red color and smoky aromas of fraises de bois, cherry and red currant, with scents of crushed roses, bayberry, orange peel, sagebrush and sultry incense. The flavors mirror the aromatics with medium bodied but substantial red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates and fleshens out, with pressed berries, roasted nuts, fraise and crème de cassis liqueurs and soft charcoal, followed by a moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru, Les Narbantons ($69.99) - Savigny is situated between Aloxe-Corton and Beaune. This shows a deep brick red color and rich, earthy aromas of fraises de bois, black cherries, black currants, wild roses, mulberry, tobacco, sandalwood and smoldering incense. The flavors, as well, are attention-getting, with mouth filling red fruits that are infused with licorice, cocoa powder, French roast and Savigny hillside minerals. On the back, the wine thickens with macerated fruits, grilled nuts, mocha, fraise and cerise liqueurs and crème de cassis, all followed by s lingering chewy yet satiny moderate tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2017 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Pernand-Vergelesses, Premier Cru, Les Vergelesses ($79.99) - From a vineyard situated near Corton, this shows a brick red color and classic aromas of fraises de bois, old tree cherries, wild currants, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, sandalwood, orange peel, violets and oriental incense. On the palate, the flavors are deliciously velvety ("velours") yet vigorous, with red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, café au last and high elevation earth and granite. The wine builds up on the back with sensations of pressed fruits, roasted nuts, fraise and crème de cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, all followed seamlessly by a lingering, satiny tannin and balanced fruit acid finish. 19+/20 points.

Passing the Baton at Woodward Canyon

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 11 August 2021

Yesterday, I received an email with the following announcement from the Woodward Canyon Winery in Lowden, west of Walla Walla, quoted as follows:

Woodward Canyon is excited to announce the promotion of Jordan Dunn-Small from Director of DTC Sales to General Manager, Jordan is the daughter of founders Rick Small and Darcey Fugman-Small. She has been working at Woodward Canyon for seven years and has served as Director of DTC Sales since 2018.

Jordan grew up working at the family business during summer breaks and event weekends. Prior to officially joining the Woodward Canyon team in 2013, Jordan spent time working for the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance, Tertulia Cellars and Long Shadows Vintners.

Jordan's brother, Sager Small, is Vineyard Manager for Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard and is also actively involved in sales and marketing for the winery. Rick and Darcey will move out of day-to-day operations but will continue to work on small projects, attend special events, and help mentor the next generation. They will also continue to serve on the Board of Directors.

"Having grown up in the wine industry and seeing ask of my parents' hard work, it's an honor to be entrusted with the legacy of our family business," said Jordan. "My brother and I look forward to continuing inner parents" footsteps while also bringing a new perspective to the business."

Woodward Canyon and the Small family have worked on strategic and succession planning over the last 10 years to ensure a smooth transition in family leadership for the winery that was founded in 1981 and is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year.

"Darcey and I could not be more pleased that Jordan and Sager both chose to return to Walla Walla and the family business," said Rick. "We are excited to watch them build on what we started forty years ago and take it to a new level."

I have known Rick since the winery was started in 1981. I remember him pouring his Riesling and Chardonnay (which were made while the newly planted vineyard was maturing). And his Dedication Series Cabernet Sauvignons, with labels depicting Walla Walla Valley pioneers set the benchmark for Washington Cabernets. He was also instrumental in getting approval for the Walla Walla Valley American Viticultural Area in 1984. 

Rick and Darcey were avid travelers and visited wineries and chateaux in France. In a visit to the Loire Valley, they became enchanted with the Sauvignon Blancs of Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire, which became the model for the Woodward Canyon Sauvignon Blanc. 

Their contributions to the Washington wine industry are immeasurable. As the second oldest winery in the Walla Walla Valley, Woodward Canyon has a great legacy which will be continued by the next generation.

More Rosés Plus Esquin Hot Sheet Deals

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 06 August 2021

More New Rosé Wines

In the September issue (on line August 25) of the Review of Washington Wines, there will be four new Rosés. Here's a preview, full reviews to be in the September issue.

2020 Northstar Rosé, Walla Walla Valley ($28) - From the Northstar Estate Vineyard, this is the best Merlot Rosé tasted so far. Light copper-pink colored it possesses perfumed aromas of fraises de bois, kiwi, keymlime and orange blossoms. The flavors are simultaneously lush and crisp flavors with deftly extracted fruits and a lingering nicely juiced finish. 19/20 points.

2020 Gard Vintners "Grand Klasse" Rosé Wine, Royal Slope, Lawrence Vineyard ($25) - This 96% Grenache, 4% Mourvèdre combination offers a brilliant light pink color and aromas of strawberries, red currants, watermelon, pink roses, pink lavender with alluring light pink fruits and Royal Slope minerals, followed by a nicely fruited finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2020 Bartholomew Rosé of Counoise, Horse Heaven Hills, Coyote Canyon Vineyard ($19) - Counoise is a South Rhone variety. This version offers a light copper-pink color and aromas of strawberry, watermelon, pink flowers, pink lavender and pink incense wtih lively pink fruits that are accented by grape skins and melon rind, followed by a crisp, finely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Willamette Valley Vineyards "Whole Cluster" Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($25) - This will be in the Values from Oregon special section. From the Dijon clone, it possesses lovely aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, red currants and pink flowers, with bright, lively flavors and precise fruit acids. Refreshing and charming. 18.5/20 points.

Other Rosés Tasted Recently

2020 Pierre-Marie Chermette Beaujolais Rosé, "Griottes" ($19.90 - Foodscape, Walla Walla) - This features a brilliant pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink peach, tangerine, pink roses, orange blossoms and orange incense. The flavors are pleasingly light and sprightly, with notes of grape skins, peach stones and minerals. The vibrancy continues ob the back with strawberry and peach liqueurs and a raiser of orange peel in the dry finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Commanderie de la Bargemone Rosé, Côteau d'Aix en Provence ($18.99 - Esquin) - This shows a brilliant light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, red currant, orange, orange blossoms, pink lavender and pink incense. The flavors are nicely delineated with light grape skin and hillside minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a dry yet nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Conde Valdemar Rioja Rosé ($20 Valdemar Estates) - This 70% Garnacha, 30% Mazuelo combination displays a brilliant copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, Valencia orange, orange blossoms, pink lavender and orange incense. The flavors, as well, are appealing, with red and orange fruits that are accented by grape skins and stony minerals. The back picks up strawberry liqueur, pomegranate sees and orange peel on the way to a crisp, nicely fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2020 Oyster Bay Rosé, Marlborough, New Zealand ($13.99 - Safeway) - This amiable Rosé offers a light copper-pink color and attractive aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, pink peach, cherry blossoms, clover and pink incense. The flavors are brisk and lively, with pink fruits that are accented by grape skins, peach stones and minerals. The back picks up strawberry and peach liqueurs, followed by s finely fruited, crisp finish. 18/20 points.

N.V. Chandon Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine, California ($18.99 - Safeway) - This Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier combination is one of our favorites. It shows a brilliant copper-pink color, streaming bubbles and aromas of strawberry, pink cherry, tangerine, pink roses, cherry blossoms and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are delightfully fresh and lively, with pink fruits that are accented by grape skins and cherry stones and enlivened by the CO2. The back picks up fraise and cerise liqueurs and orange peel, followed by a true Brut finish. 18.5/20 points.

Washington Wine Deals from the Esquin Hot Sheet

A couple of days ago, I received an email from Esquin Wine & Spirits with the monthly Hot Sheet featuring Washington wine specials for the August Washington Wine month. It included several wines that have been reviewed in the Review of Washington Wines.

2020 Novelty Hill Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($13.99 - Regular $20) - Lemon-gold colored, this possesses aromas of pear, Crenshaw melon, citrus, summer flowers and lemongrass, with fresh, vibrant flavors that are marked by grape and pea skins, melon rind and minerals, followed by a crisp finish. Full review to be in the September issue. 18+/20 points.

2020 L'Ecole No 41 "Old Vines" Chenin Blanc, Yakima Valley ($14.99 - Regular $17) - This Vouvray style white offers a a lemon-gold color and attractive floral aromas of peach, kiwi, guava and citrus and vibrant flavors that are accented by peach stones and minerals, followed by an nicely fruited off-dry finish. Full review to be in the September issue. 18.5/20 points. 

2019 Helix Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, Stillwater Creek Vineyard ($21.99 - Regular $28) - This shows a medium brick red color and aromas of red fruits, plum, sun-dried tomato and herbs with charming medium bodied flavors marked by Royal Slope minerals. Full review to be in the September issue. 18.5/20 points.

2018 Freehand Cellars Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley ($15.99 - Regular $25) - This offers a deep ruby color with rich, smoky aromas and thick, generous yet focused flavors that pick up roasted berries and nuts, followed by a savory, satisfying finish. Reviewed April 2021. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Buty "Wildebeest" Red Wine, Columbia Valley ($12.99 - Regular $20) - This combination of BDX and Rhone varieties offers rich.smoky aromas of blackberries, plums, cherries, combining the structure of BDX varieties and the mouth-filling flavors of the Rhone varieties. Reviewed May 2019. 18+/20 points. 

Walla Walla Valley Wine News

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 30 July 2021

The Heat Wave

So far, this summer is turning out to be the hottest on record in the Walla Walla Valley. Here's a comparison of the years 2015, the previous warmest year, and 2011. The average temperatures from April 1 to July 28 was 66.21 degrees in 2015 and 66.23 degrees in 2021. The Growing Day Degree numbers are 1961 for 2015 and 2021 for 2021. Veraison has already begun in some vineyards and the harvest is expected to be earlier than in 2015. Highs in July have usually been over 100, but moderated by cool nights. Highs are expected to ease into the 'eighties from August 5 on, which should facilitate the steady maturation of the grapes.

Tim Donahue Departs from the Community College

At the end of June, Tim Donahue departed from his position as Director of Winemaking at Institute for Enology and Viticulture at the Walla Walla Community College. where he has been since 2010. He has started his own winemaking consulting business, Horse Thief Wine Solutions. Besides his experience at the Community College, Donahue has a degree in Oenology from the University of Adelaide in South Australia and a degree in business management from the University of North Colorado. His stated aim is to be "Just a guy helping other folks' wine dreams come true."

Sabrina Leuck Named Interim Director at WWCC Wine Program

With the departure of Tim Donahue, Sabrina Leuck takes over as Interim Director of the Institute for Enology and Viticulture. She has taught there since 2011. She is from Victoria, B.C. and has a BS degree in Enology and Viticulture from Cornell University.