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The March issue of the Review of Washington Wines goes on line Wednesday, February 24. There will be a lot that is new: new vintages, new wineries, the first of the season rosés and more. Over 60 wines will be reviewed. Because of COVID-19 restrictions, wine tasting has been outside. Only recently has limited indoor tasting been permitted in locales with proper ventilation. So all the wines I have been tasting were picked up or shipped. Here's what's coming up.

The March issue will include Winter releases from the Walla Walla Valley, including new vintages from Amavi Cellars, Dama Wines, Kontos Cellars, Bergevin Lane and Basel Cellars. Wines from other Downtown Walla Walla tasting rooms include K Vintners, Browne Family Vineyards and Cotes de Ciel. There are nine recent releases from Kerloo Cellars in Seattle's SODO district. New on Lake Chelan is Amos Rome Vineyards on Wapato Point on the North Shore. Also new is Whole Picture a new brand from Hard Row to Hoe on the Chelan North Shore. There is a virtual visit to the Yakima Valley with wines from Owen Roe and Fortuity Cellars. There will be Highly Recommended wines from Kontos Cellars and Kerloo. Also included are first of the season rosés from the Renegade Wine Co, SMAK Wines and Brook & Bull.

Also noteworthy is that there will be twelve new wines from the Cabernet Franc grape, including white and sparkling ones as well as reds, which shows how versatile the variety is. This will be the topic of the February 24 Blog posting along with the March issue. 

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Two weeks ago, in this Blog, I wrote about how Chateau Ste. Michelle became the biggest supplier of Washington Wine values. Here's the story of how Chateau Ste. Michelle got started and who was behind it. 

Up until 1967, the American Wine Growers company was a producer principally of fruit wines under the NAWICO and Pomerelle labels - cherry, plum, blackberry and other fruits. The only grape wine was Concord which is a native variety of the vitis labrusca family. But Vic Allison had a bigger vision. He contacted Andre Tchelistcheff of Beaulieu Vineyards to evaluate Washington wines. Tchelistcheff rejected the wines NAWICO offered and recommended that the winery should focus on Cabernet Sauvignon as a superior variety. This was the man behind Beaulieu Vineyards' Reserve de Georges Latour, the iconic 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the winery's estate vineyards in the Napa Valley. In the 1960s, American Wine Growers started planting Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay under the company's development manager, Vic Allison.

I remember in the early 1970's that Vic Allison would come to Esquin Wine Merchants, which I owned at the time, and buy Bordeaux wine to compare with Ste. Michelle Vintners' Cabernets. I found him to be friendly and amiable. The inaugural vintage was 1967, released in 1970. The Ste. Michelle name came about as Vic Allison had a daughter who visited Mont St. Michel in Normandy and thought that was a great name, ands it was adapted in a feminine gender. In 1974 the Chateau Ste. Michelle winery and visitor center was built and the name was changed to its current form. In overseeing these developments, Vic Allison left a remarkable legacy.

 

 

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Two weeks ago in this blog, I wrote about predictions for the wine industry in 2021, especially in the light of COVID-19 and concluded that what will happen is anybody's guess. Here, I am writing about some things I would like to see happen, but am not sure that will happen. But a new national administration gives hope for better things. 

An End to the Senseless Tariff War over Wine

No country ever wins trade wars. Retaliatory tariffs hurt both sides. The last escalation in tariffs on European wines extended the 25% duty to all wines, not just rosés and wines over 14% alcohol. But with protectionist Peter Navarro gone, hopefully there will be a more rational approach to trade negotiation. American wines do not need protection. Much wine is exported and there is more to lose with retaliatory tariffs.

More New American Viticultural Areas

During the past four years, only one new AVA has been approved by the TTB division of the U.S. Treasury, the Royal Slope. There are others pending, The Burn of the Columbia and the White Bluffs (home to two of the oldest vineyards in Washington, Sagemoor and Dionysus, planted in the 1970's). AVAs are important for consumers' understanding of the importance of terroir in wine production. An AVA designation such as Red Mountain or the Walla Walla Valley is more meaningful than the broad Columbia Valley.

A Disciplined Approach Toward Normalcy

It is no surprise that COVID-19 has had a devastating impact on the restaurant and wine industry. But until the virus is brought under control through widespread vaccination, things are not going to get much better. In the meantime, masking and social distancing will be necessary to slow the spread. Things are going to be tough for quite a while longer. The new ventilation standards will help a bit, but the way forward is going to take a lot more effort and discipline. This may sound like editorializing, but that's the reality.

More Support for Wineries, Retailers and Restaurants

This is a matter of survival. Buy more wine, get take-out from restaurants. Just do all you can to help.

 

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For best buys in Washington wines, no winery turns out more wines than Chateau Ste.. Michelle. The scale of the winery's operations in Paterson and Prosser enable it to turn out millions of cases of attractively priced wines. The volume and efficiency also enables CSM to deliver products to supermarkets at deep discounts. Here are some wines that were recently reviewed that illustrate this.

New Reviews

2019 Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling, Columbia Valley (Regular $15, Safeway: $6.99) - This possesses classic varietal aromas of pear, peach, melon, citrus, honeysuckle and clover with fresh, vibrant flavors that finish medium-dry and minerals. Full review to be in the February issue of the Review of Washington Wines. 18+/20 points.

2019 Chateau Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley (Regular: $15, Safeway $6.99) - This drier version fresh and fragrant, with bright fruits that are imbued with grape and pear skins and saline minerals along with a bit of sprits and a faintly honeyed yet dry finish. To be in the February issue. 18+/20 points.

2018 Merf Chardonnay, Columbia Valley (Regular: $16, Safeway: $12.24) - David "Merf" Merfeld is the winemaker for Northstar which is owned by Ste. Michelle. This Chardonnay shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and attractive aromas of apple, peach, citrus, apple blossoms, lemon verbena, vanillin and white incense. The flavors are bright and true to variety with notes of grape and apple skins and peach stones. The back picks up peach liqueur and touches of lemon custard and apple cobbler, followed by a faintly honeyed finish. 18/20 points.

2017 Borne of Fire Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley (Regular: $30, Safeway: $20.64) - This comes from The Burn, a pending American Viticultural Area, which one had been burned by a wildfire. It displays a ruby color and a classic nose of blackberry, cherry, plum, black roses, tobacco, sage and incense. The flavors are generous with intermixtures of licorice, cocoa, French roast and Columbia River minerals. The chewy textured back picks up macerated berries, roasted nuts, dried cherries and mocha on the way to a ripe soft tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 The Cosmic Egg Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley (Regular: $38, Safeway: $17.99) - This was made at Northstar and was fermented and aged in concrete eggs and tanks, resulting in a more accessible and sexy wine than the usual Cabernet. It shows a deep ruby color and rich aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, rosebuds, orange peel, sage and oriental incense. The flavors are supple, yet substantial, with notes of cocoa, medium roast coffee and light earth. The back picks up kirsch liqueur and plum preserves on the way to a soft yet chewy tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, Canoe Ridge Estate (Regular: $34, Safeway: $23.79) - From a vineyard above the Columbia River, this features a deep ruby-crimson color and enticing aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, cassis, rose petals, sweet tobacco, cedar and sweet incense. The flavors are ample, yet deep and focused, with black and red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, bittersweet chocolate, French roast and riverside minerals. On the back, the wine deepens with macerated berries, roasted walnuts, mocha, kirsch and cassis liqueurs, lanolin ("legs") and moderate oak, followed by a pleasingly ripe smooth tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

Previously Reviewed

2017 Chateau Ste. Michelle "Indian Wells" Merlot, Columbia Valley (Regular: $20, Safeway: $13.99) - 18/20 points. - October issue.

2017 Chateau Ste. Michelle "Indian Wells" Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley (Regular: $20, Safeway: $13.99) - 18/20 points - October

2019 Chateau Ste. Michelle Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley (Regular: $18, Safeway: $9.99) - 18+/20 points. - January

2018 Chateau Ste. Michelle Sauvignon Blanc, Horse Heaven Hills (Regular: $18, Safeway: $12.99) 18+/20 points - January

2018 Chateau Ste. Michelle "Indian Wells" Chardonnay, Columbia Valley (Regular: $20, Safeway: $13.99) - 18/20 points. January

N.V. Domaine Ste.  Michelle Brut Sparkling Wine, Columbia Valley (Regular: $18, Safeway: $11.99) - 18/20 points. - 20 December Review Blog

N.V. Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine, Columbia Valley (Regular: $20, Safeway: $13.99) - 18+/20 points. - 20 December Blog

 

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In years past, I have started each new year with predictions for the New Year in the wine industry. This year is different: who knows what will happen? Undoubtedly, COVID-19 is going to have a great impact. But how much? 

Obviously, restaurants and wine tasting rooms are going to be seriously impacted. Even when Phase 2 begins, indoor capacity will be limited to 25%. And it is going to be a hard winter. Who wants to taste or dine outside? Last week, I tasted at Henry Earl (wines to be reviewed in the February issue) on Main Street. Thanks to my friend Horte Coleman, I was seated at a table with a mini gas fireplace. At the Spring Valley Vineyard tasting room on Second and Rose, the wind was blowing. Luckily, I had only three new wines to taste (to be in February). Currently, most of my tasting work has been at home with wines shipped to me, including ones from Eight Bells, Wind Rose Cellars, Tinte Cellars and Convergence Zone Cellars, all to be in the February issue. 

As a consequence, people are dining and drinking at home more. This is partially offsetting the loss for wineries of restaurant sales. Another response by wineries is bringing wines and tasting to customers homes, through promotions such as free or discounted shipping and tasting packages. 

Another consequence is more wine industry consolidation. The big news this week has been the purchase of the Goff Family's shares in Amavi Cellars and the Pepper Bridge Winery by Dennis Murphy, owner-winemaker of Caprio Cellars and home builder (Hayden Homes). Also at the end of 2020, Steve and Jo Marie Hansen sold Basel Cellars to Dan Thiesen, Paul McKay and Philip Christofiide, founders of the Walla Walla Steak Company and Crossbuck Brewing., and Chad MacKay and Scott Clark.

So what happens in the wine industry in 2021 is anybody's guess. Mine is that COVID-19 will have a big impact well into the year. Who knows what the "New Normal" will be. 

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