Walla Walla Fall Release Weekend 2019

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 06 November 2019

November 1-3 was Fall Release Weekend in the Walla Walla Valley. It was a weekend when some wineries were open especially for the occasion. Here's what we did.

On Thursday, October 31, I got a jump on the weekend by visiting L'Ecole No. 41 and Woodward Canyon. At the L'Ecole, I tasted the new 2016 Apogee and Perigee blends and the 2017 GSM Red and at Woodward Canyon, the 2017 Estate Merlot and Old Vines Cabernet and the 2016 Artist's Cabernet, all to be reviewed in the December issue of the Review of Washington Wines.

On Friday morning, November 1, we went to Abeja and in the afternoon to The Walls for the 2017 Reds, The Ramparts and Gaspard Syrah along with the 2017 Lip Stinger White. And then on to Gramercy (2016 reds) and the Foundry Vineyards (2016 reds). All the to be in the December issue.

On Saturday, we went to Reynvaan Family Vineyards for a preview of the 2018 Syrahs. Here are my notes and scores.

2018 Reynvaan Family Vineyards "Foothills Reserve" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($270 - 3 pack) - Ruby-garnet colored, it emits smoky aromas of raspberry, cherry, black currant, a hint of fig, crushed roses, lavender, olive tapenade and cracked pepper. The medium fill bodied flavors, as well, are dramatic, with notes of licorice, cocoa, French roast and silty minerals. The penetration continues on the back with framboise and cassis liqueurs, roasted nuts and charcoal, followed by a long smooth tannin finish. 19.5/20 points.

2018 Reynvaan Family Vineyards "The Contender" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($270 - 3 pack) - This is a bold Syrah (with 6% Roussanne). It displays a deer ruby color and a sultry, smoky nose of blackpberries, blueberries, black currants, lavender and oriental incense. The flavors are dramatic with red and blue fruits that are infused with black licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and crushed rock. The back picks up macerated berries, roasted nuts. kidskin and charcoal, leading the way into a long, textured ripe tannin finish. 19.5/20 points.

2018 Reynvaan Family Vineyards "In the Rocks" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($285 - 3 pack) - This is a glamorous Syrah (with 10% Viognier). It displays a deep ruby color and lovely aromas of red fruits - Marionberries, cranberries, currants - with scents of rosebuds, white flowers, lavender, violets and wood smoke. The flavors are deliciously mouth encompassing, with notes of licorice, cocoa, roasted coffee beans and distinct "Rocks" minerality. The penetration continues on the back with macerated berries, roasted nuts, smoked meats and pencil lead, followed by a lengthy, savory ripe tannin finish. 19.5/20 points.

2018 Reynvaan Family Vineyards "Stonessence" Syrah, Walla Walla Valley ($330 - 3 pack) - This lives up to its name, the essence of the stones of the Rocks. It boasts a deep ruby-crimson color and an a lovely, perfumed nose of blackberry, blueberry, cranberry, black currants and a bit of fig, with scents of black roses, tobacco, truffles, violets, white pepper and spiced incense. The flavors are incredibly silky yet vigorous, with black and blue fruits that are infused with licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and saline cobblestone and silt minerals. The back reveals pressed fruits, creme de cassis, dried cranberries, kidskin and charcoal, all followed seamlessly by a seemingly endless ripe balanced tannin finish. 20/20 points.

Also tasted was the Reynvaan Family Vineyards 2017 "Queen's Road" White, a superb blend of 65% Viognier and 35% Marsanne to be reviewed in the December issue of the Review of Washington Wines. 

After Reynvaan, we went over to Rasa Vineyards on Powerline Road to taste Billo and Pinto Naravanne's 2016 reds, to be reviewed in December. In the afternoon, we went to Tero Estates' winery near Milton Freewater. The superb 2016 Petit Verdot will be in the December issue. Then on to Grosgrain Vineyards to taste the new 2018 reds, also to be reviewed in December. 

On Sunday, we joined Ted and Joyce Cox for a vertical tasting put together by Bill Henry of Tertulia Cellars' Tierra Labrada wines from the Elevation Vineyard above the South Fork of the Walla Walla Valley, including the 2017, 2016 and 2015 reds.. The newly released 2017's will be reviewed in the December issue. 

 

Grape Harvest 2019 a Wrap

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 01 November 2019

Cooling weather in early October, followed by intermittent rains brought on a shorter, more compressed than usual grape harvest in the Columbia Valley. Grape picking commenced in early September and much of the harvesting occurred during mid to late September. This week (October 28 - November 1) most growers have completed harvesting. 

Quality is expected to be excellent as many growers and winemakers say higher acid and phenol levels will contribute producing wines of complex aromas and flavors. 

For pictures of grape harvesting by roving photographer Richard Duval, go to www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

 

French and Italian Wines Recently Tasted

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 24 October 2019

Over the past few weeks, we have been drinking a variety of wines from France and Italy. Some were tasted at Esquin's 50th Anniversary Celebration on October 12, some purchased there, and others from wine.com and The Thief Bottle Shop in Walla Walla. Here are my notes and scores. 

Bordeaux

At Esquin's 50th Anniversary Celebration Pasternak Imports had a table featuring Bordeaux wines from three well-known properties. 

2015 Château de Pez, Saint Estèphe ($59.99 - Esquin) - Composed of 53% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, this showed a deep ruby color and intense aromas of blackberry, cherry, plum, crushed black roses, tobacco, violets and incense. The flavors are vigorous, typicaL of Saint Estèphe, with notes of licorice, dark cocoa, French roast and minerals. The penetration continues on the back with macerated fruits, mocha, and pencil lead, followed by a firm yet ripe tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2015 Château Bourgneuf, Pomerol ($74.99 - Esquin) - This Merlot dominated wine offers a deep ruby-garnet color and a rich, smoky nose of dark fruits - blackberry, cherry, plum - with scents of crushed black roses, pipe tobacco, mulberry, truffles (a trait of Pomerol) and smoldering incense. The flavors are thick and chewy, underlain with licorice, chocolate and minerals. The chewy textured back reveals sensations of macerated fruits, roasted nuts and charcoal, followed by a long, ripe tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

2015 Reserve de la Comtesse, Pauillac ($84.99 - Esquin) - This is the second wine of Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and comes mostly from younger vines. It shows a deep ruby-crimson color and seductive aromas of blackberry, cherry, cassis, crushed roses, sweet tobacco, sandalwood and incense. The flavors are well delineated, with notes of licorice, Swiss chocolate, French roast and gravelly minerals. The back picks up pressed berries, roasted nuts, mocha and creme de cassis and kirsch liqueurs, followed by a lingering sweet-dry tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

Beaujolais and Burgundy

2018 Château de Pizay Morgon ($16.99 - Esquin) - We stayed two nights at the Château in 2014. This young red shows a purplish ruby color and effusive aromas of raspberry, strawberry, currant, red roses and whiffs of pink incense. The flavors are expressive of the Gamay grape with bright red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa powder and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine turns supple and approachable, with touches pressed berries, toasted hazelnuts and creme de cassis, followed by a ripe soft tannin finish. Great value at this price point. 18+/20 points.

2018 Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie "Les Cocottes" ($26 - The Thief) - Brick red colored, this emits enticing aromas of wild strawberries, red currants and cherries with scents of red roses, sweet pea flowers and pink incense. The flavors are medium bodied but substantial, with supple red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee and pink granite minerals. On the back, the wine gains vigor with sensations of pressed fruits, fraise and kirsch liqueurs and touches of nougat and pencil lead, followed by a slightly chewy soft tannin finish. A real charmer. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Domaine Yohan Lardy Chénas, "Les Deschamps" ($25 - The Thief) - This shows a ruby-crimson color and a lovely nose of strawberries, red currants and pomegranates, wild red roses and whiffs of pink incense. The medium bodied flavors, as well, are alluring, with mouth caressing red fruits that are imbued with red licorice, cocoa, black tea and hillside schist minerals. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs, toffee and pomegranate seeds on the way to a pleasing soft ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Daniel Bouland Chiroubles "Chatenay" ($37 - The Thief) - This is priced higher than most Beaujolais, but well worth it. It displays a deep ruby color and seductive aromas of wild fruits - strawberries, blueberries, black currants - with scents of crushed roses, sweet pea flowers, violets and oriental incense. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with layers of generous yet well structured red and blue fruits that are intermingled with red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and granitic minerals. On the back, the wine invigorates with sensations of macerated berries, crème de cassis and pencil lead, followed by a lingering grainy yet smooth tannin finsish. 19/20 points.

2016 Domaine du Prieuré Savigny-les Beaune "Mutier Amet" ($29.99 - Esquin) - Brick red colored, this possesses a typically Burgundian nose of fraises de bois, cherry, cassis, crushed roses, tobacco leaf and wood smoke. The medium bodied Pinot Noir flavors are ample, yet focused, with notes of red licorice, cocoa powder, black tea and earth. The back picks up fraise and crème de cassis liqueurs and roasted nuts, followed by a pleasing moderate tannin and acid finish. 18.5/20 points.

Côtes du Rhone

2016 Domaine de la Charbonnière Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc ($41.99 - Esquin) - We have had this Domaine's reds before (see the 14 August posting below), but this is our first white from this property. It shows a brilliant lemon-gold color and intriguing aromas of Bosc pear, white peach, Crenshaw melon, citrus, pear tree flowers, lemon verbena, anise, wet stone and white incense. The flavors are vivid and laser-like, with notes of pear skin, peach stone and mas minerals. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs, melon rind, and a touch of crème fraiche and a twist of lemon zest, followed by a brisk yet lingering finish. 19/20 points.

2015 Famille Perrin Vinsobres "Les Cornuds" ($17.99 - wine.com) - This 50/50 Grenache-Syrah combination offers a deep ruby color and rich aromas of raspberry, black currant, plum, black roses, tobacco, garrigue, olive and incense. The flavors are thick and direct, with notes of licorice, chocolate, coffee and minerals. The chewy textured back picks up roasted berries and nuts, mocha and charcoal, followed by a ripe sweet-dry tannin finish. 18/20 points.

2015 Domaine Montirius Vacqueyras "Garrigue" ($26.99 - wine.com) - Composed of organically grown 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, this displays a deep ruby color and a rich, smoky nose of raspberry, black currant, plum, black roses, tobacco, garrigue (lavender and herbs) and spiced incense. The flavors are supple yet robust, with notes of licorice, cola and scorched earth. On the back, the wine gains intensity, with roasted berries, chestnuts, mocha and burnt charcoal, followed by ripe moderate tannin finish. Fine value. 18.5/20 points.

Southwest France

2015 Château Laffitte-Teston Madiran, Vieiiles Vignes ($19.99 - Esquin) - Made from the indigenous Tannat grape, this presents a deep ruby color and a smoky (a trait of Tannat) nose of wild fruits - raspberries, black currants, plums - with scents of black roses, mulberry, pipe tobacco and spiced incense. The flavors are robust yet approachable, with notes of licorice, roasted coffee beans and gravelly earth. On the back, the wine softens up a bit, with macerated berries, roasted nuts and framboise and cassis liqueurs, followed by a chewy sweet-dry tannin finish. Terrific value. 18.5/20 points.

2015 Mas Champart St. Chinian, "Clos de la Simonette" ($29.99 - wine.com) - This is a flavorful combination of 65% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache and 15% Carignan. It shows a deep ruby color and intense, smoky aromas of blackberry, black currant, bayberry, black roses, mulberry, pipe tobacco, lavender and spiced incense. The flavors are thick and generous, with notes of black licorice, cocoa, French roast and Languedoc scorched earth. The intensity continues on the back with macerated fruits, grilled nuts and burnt charcoal, followed by a ripe chewy tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

Italian Piedmont

Among the wines poured at Esquin's 50th Anniversary event were the following wines. One of the highlights of the tasting was a presentation of the prestigious Gaja wines.

2015 Gaja "Sito Moresco" Rosso ($54.99 - Esquin) - Composed of 35% Nebbiolo, 25% Barbera, 35% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this possesses a deep ruby color and intoxicating aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, cassis, crushed roses, tobacco, crushed roses, mulberry. and oriental incense. The flavors are simultaneously opulent and focused, with notes of licorice, dark cocoa, Italian roast and minerals. The penetration continues on the back with sensations of roasted berries and nuts, touches of leather and lanolin, followed by a lingering sweet-dry tannin finish. 19/20 points.

2015 Gaja Barbaresco ($249.99- Esquin) - This is the epitome of Barbaresco Nebbiolo. Deep ruby garnet colored, it possesses an intoxicating nose of semi dried fruits - blackberry, cherry, plum, fig, orange - with scents of crushed roses, sweet tobacco, sandalwood, road tar, violets, and oriental incense. The flavors are powerful yet velvety, with notes of licorice, Toblerone chocolate, espresso and crushed minerals. The penetration continues on the back with macerated fruits, dried orange peel, vanillin and graphite, all leading seamlessly into a long, long sweet-dry tannin finish. This about has it all - at a price - and will have a great future. 19.5+/20 points.

See below for the Gaja Tuscan reds.

2014 Alba Rocco Barbaresco ($59.99 - Esquin) - This is an estimable Barbaresco. Ruby garnet colored, it possesses the classic Nebbiolo aromas of semi dried fruits - blackberry, cherry, plum, cassis - and scents of crushed roses, mulberry, tobacco, orange peel, tar and smoldering incense. The medium full bodied flavors are bold yet elegant, with notes of red licorice, cocoa, espresso and hillside minerals. The penetration continues on the back with sensations of roasted berries and nuts and recurring tar and orange peel, followed by a lingering sweet-dry tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

Tuscany

2016 Argiano "Non Confunditur" Toscana Rosso ($18.99 - Esquin) - "Non Confunditur," meaning "unique" is the Argiano motto. This presents a ruby-garnet color and rich aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, rosebuds, tobacco, rosemary, sage and sweet incense. The flavors are medium bodied, with generous yet focused red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa and hillside earth. On the back, the wine turns supple yet chewy, with pressed fruits, hazelnuts and mocha, followed with a dryish, savory moderate tannin finish. 18/20 points.

2016 Polizano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($30 - The Thief) - Not to be confused with the Montepulciano grape, this is produced from Sangiovese (85%), locally called Prugnolo. It shows a brick red color and smoky aromas of raspberry, cherry, plum, bayberry, semi dried roses, tobacco, rosemary and incense. The medium bodied flavors  mirror the aromatics with chewy red fruits that are intermixed with red licorice, cocoa, black tea and hillside minerals. The back picks up pressed fruits, roasted hazelnuts and dried cherries, followed by a ripe dryish tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Castello dei Rampolla Chianti Classico ($38 - The Thief) - This is a classy Chianti. It shows a ruby color and seductive aromas of raspberry, cherry and plum with scents of crushed roses, tobacco, rosemary oregano and whiffs of wood smoke. The flavors mirror the aromatics with expansive yet focused red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, Italian roast and hillside minerals. The wine intensifies on the back with sensations of macerated fruits, mocha and tart cherry, followed by a toasty sweet-dry finish. 18.5+/20 points.

2016 Gaja Ca' Marcanda Toscana Rosso ($49.99 - Esquin) - Composed of 55% Merlot, 35% Syrah and 10% Sangiovese, this wine exhibits a deep ruby color and floral aromas of raspberry, cherry, currant, rose petal, sweet tobacco, lavender and incense. On the palate, the Merlot comes through with supple, yet focused red fruits that are endowed with licorice, cocoa, medium roast coffee beans and Tuscan hillside earth. The back picks up pressed berries, roasted hazelnuts and mocha followed by a lingering ripe dryish tannin finish, 19/20 points.

2016 Gaja Ca' Marcanda "Magari" Bolgheri Rosso ($69.99 - Esquin) - Bolgheri is a prestigous DOCG near the Tuscan Coast. A blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot, this offers a ruby-crimson color and rich, smoky aromas of cherry, plum, currant, crushed roses, rosemary, sage, a hint of mint and wafts of spiced incense. The flavors are thick and chewy, almost opulent, yet elegant, with notes of licorice, dark cocoa, Italian roast and sand and loam minerals. The penetration continues on the back with sensations of macerated berries, roasted nuts and graphite, followed by an herb and spice dusted sweet-dry tannin finish. 19+/20 points.

 

Esquin Celebrates 50 Years

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 17 October 2019

Last week, Lynn and I were on the west side of the State (which is why there was no Review Blog posting). First, we drove from Walla Walla to Bellevue for lunch and then to Chuckanut Drive, south of Bellingham for two nights. We had two delicious seafood meals at the Chuckanut Manor and the Chuckanut Oyster Bar. On Thursday, we went back to Seattle. We tasted wines at Structure Cellars, Latta and Kerloo on Friday at the SODO Urban Works Wineries south of Spokane Street. Reviews will be in the November issue of the Review of Washington Wines.

The big event was Saturday, October 12 from 11 to 5, when Esquin Wine Merchants celebrated 50 years as a wine retailer. I was the founder back in 1969 and ran the store for 27 years until I sold it to Chuck Lefevre in 1997. I worked as a consultant for ten years after that, mainly writing the Esquin newsletter. It was an event that I couldn't miss. It was a really big celebration: all wines and spirits on sale, food, wine tastings, raffle prizes, the works. Chuck and his daughters Stephanie and Alisha (who now run the business) were on hand. And I got to meet former Esquin customers all the way back to the beginning (when the store was on First Avenue South and had an underground cellar). The wine tastings were first rate. Pasternak Imports poured some very fine  Bordeaux: 2015 Chateau de Pez, St. Estephe, Ch. Bourgneuf, Pomerol, 2015 Reserve de la Comtesse and 2012 Ch. Pichon Lalande from Pauillac. I bought a few bottles of these wines. Another table had some impressive Italian wines including the 2014 Alba Rocco Barbaresco. I also found a 2014 Louis Martini Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, from a legendary winery. Long Shadows poured a new Sauvignon Blanc, along with the Feather Cabernet Sauvignon, Pedestal Merlot and Chester-Kidder Red Blend. Washington State was also represented by Woodward Canyon, L'Ecole No. 41 and others. A highlight was a tasting of Gaja wines, including the 2015 Barbaresco, 2015 Sito Moresco Langhe Red and 2016 Magari Bolgheri Red Blend. At the end of the event, I congratulated Chuck for continuing the Esquin tradition and he congratulated me for getting it started.

On Sunday, we went to Woodinville to visit the Warehouse and Artisan Districts wineries which are open weekends only. These included Kevin White, Savage Grace, Tinte Cellars, Three of Cups and Finn Hill. These will be reviewed in the November Review of Washington Wines. On Monday, we drove back to Walla Walla.