Rosé Wines: Not Just for Summer

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 30 January 2019

One of the most refreshing developments in the wine industry last year was the news that Fiona Mak, the lab technician at Artifex, the winemaking facility in Walla Walla, was going to start a winery, called SMAK Wines, devoted to making rosé wines, not just for summer, but for the year around. 

Conventional wisdom has it that rosé wines have to be sold and drunk by the end of summer, which is to say that the 2017's should have been gone by Labor Day. But is there any valid reason why this should be the case? Rosé wines are processed much the same way as whites, the grapes are crushed after the desired period of skin contact, then fermented. The only difference is that rosés are made with red grapes instead of white. White wines are not drunk during summer only, so why rosés? 

During the past few weeks, we have been drinking rosé wines and they are doing very nicely, thank you. Many rosés are sold out because some wineries limit production to what can be sold by the end of summer. But here are some that are still available and holding up well.

2017 Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris Rosé, Columbia Valley ($22) - This is Pinot Gris with longer hang tine on the vines to produce a wine with a light copper color and intriguing aromas of apricot, strawberry, ruby grapefruit, pink flowers and wet stone. The flavors are deliciously ripe, with notes of apricot stones and fraise liqueur. Followed by a crisp juicy finish. Lynn gave this two stars last summer, three, the highest rating, last week. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Seven Hills Dry Rosé, Columbia Valley ($18) - Primarily Cabernet Franc with a bit of Petit Verdot, this offers a light pink-copper color and aromas of peach, grapefruit and Rainier cherry with scents of cherry blossoms, orange peel and spiced white incense. The flavors are fresh and sprightly, with notes of peach stone and grapefruit peel, followed by a properly extracted dry finish. 18+/20 points.

2017 Maryhill Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley ($13.00 - Safeway) - This shows a brilliant pink color ("what a Rosé should look like," says Lynn) and lovely aromas of wild strawberries, cherries and red currants with scents of cherry tree blossoms and wild flowers. The flavors, as well, are alluring, with bright, juicy red fruits that stay through the dryish finish. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Rôtie Cellars Rosé Wine, Washington State ($22) - This 85% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah combination belies the pale copper color with its substance. The strawberry, pear and peach flavors and aromas of pear tree blossoms and wild flowers are attention getting, and the juiciness and bit of spritz give it vibrancy. An ideal Rosé in the Provence style (Lynn gives it three stars). 19/20 points

2017 Chateau Ste. Michelle Rosé Wine, Columbia Valley ($9.99 - Safeway) - Brilliant pink colored, this wine possesses attractive aromas of strawberry, Rainier cherry, ruby grapefruit, cherry tree blossoms and wildflowers. The flavors are crisp and sprightly, with notes of fraise and kirsch liqueurs and grapefruit peel, followed by a juicy yet dry and crisp finish. A bargain at $9.99. 18/20 points.

N/V College Cellars Rosé of Grenache, Walla Walla Valley ($20) - Although not vintage dated, this is essentially from 2017. Made with infused carbon dioxide, it shows a copper color and attractive aromas of raspberry, Rainier cherry, pomegranate, orange peel and pink flowers. The extraction is just right and the dissolved CO2 adds verve to the red fruit flavors. The bright fruit acids and recurring orange peel make the wine a good counterpoint to spicy dishes such as curries. 18.5/20 points.

The French, unlike Americans, drink Rosé the year around. Here are a couple of fine examples.

2017 Fleur de Mer Rosé de Provence ($17.99 - Safeway) - This is our go-to Provence Rosé from the Côte d'Azur. Light copper colored, it possesses attractive aromas of strawberry, pomegranate, cherry, currant, cherry blossoms, lavender and white incense. The flavors are nicely fruited and extracted, with notes of grape skin, fraise and kirsch liqueurs and Provençal herbs, all finishing dry yet juicy. 18.5/20 points.

2017 Château de Sègeries Tavel Rosé ($21.99 - wine.com) - The Rhone Valley's best rosés come from Tavel, near Avignon. This one shows a brilliant copper-pink color and aromas of wild raspberries, currants, tangerine peel. lavender and wine incense. The flavors are fresh and lively, with notes of framboise and creme de cassis liqueurs and recurring tangerine peel. A bit more extracted than most Rosés, this makes for a great food wine. 18.5+/20 points.

Last night, we had a bottle of 2015 Cayuse "Edith" Grenache Rosé which refutes the notion that rosés have to be drunk young. 

2015 Cayuse Vineyards "Edith" Grenache Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, Armada Vineyard - Released in April 2018, this Rosé exhibits a brilliant copper colorant an exotic nose of fraises de bois, red currants, musk melon, orange peel, orange tree blossoms, meadow wildflowers and, spiced white incense. The palate reveals a complex melange of ripe fruits with saline "Rocks" minerality. The back picks up fraise and Grand Marnier liqueurs on the way to a lingering, elegantly fruited spice dusted finish. 19/20 points.

More Affordable Burgundies

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 23 January 2019

In my Review Blog posting of 3 December, 2018, I wrote an article about "The Less Well-Known Appellations of Burgundy," such as those of Marsannay, Monthelie, Saint Aubin and Chaintré which produce some fine but affordable wines. Here are more that we have tried recently.

White Burgundy

2017 Domaine Trouillet Macon-Solutre ($16.99 - Total Wine) - This comes from just outside of Pouilly-Fuissé, in the town of Solutré. It shows a brilliant gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach, grapefruit, pear tree blossoms, meadow flowers and lemon verbena. The pure Chardonnay flavors are pleasantly fresh and sunny, with notes of pear and peach skins and granitic minerals. The back is well fruited and brisk, accented by persistent minerality and grapefruit peel on the finish. 18/20 points.

2017 Domaine Trouillet Pouilly-Fuissé ($26.99 - Total Wine) - This is a fine rendition of Pouilly-Fuissé. It displays a brilliant gold color and lovely, floral aromas of pear, peach and citrus, with scents of pear tree blossoms, acacia flowers and hints of butternut and lemongrass. The pure Chardonnay flavors are vivid and resonant, with notes of peach stone, pear skin and granite. The vibrancy continues on the back with poire and pêche liqueurs and touches of crème fraiche and lemon zest on the persistently minerally finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Louis Latour Pouilly-Fuisse ($22.99 - Wine.com) - This is a crisply styled Pouilly-Fuissè. It displays a lemon-gold color and a typical Chardonnay nose of pear, peach, lemon peel, pear blossoms and acacia flowers.The flavors are bright and resonant, with notes of pear and grape skins and granite. On the back, the wine turns tangy and then softens up with a touch of crème fraiche on the finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Domaine Vincent Pouilly-Fuissé, "Marie Antoinette" ($23.99 - Wine.com) - This version features a brilliant gold color and attractive aromas of pear, peach and grapefruit, with scents of white wild flowers, lemon verbena and whiffs of white incense. The flavors are pure Chardonnay, with notes of peach stone, grape skin and granite. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and grape rind on the way to a crisp, deliciously fruited finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Domaine de la Croix Senaillet Saint-Veran ($20.99 - Wine.com) - This comes from Davayé, one of the towns near Pouilly-Fuissé with the Saint-Veran AOC. It shows a brilliant lemon-gold court and aromas of apple, peach, grapefruit, apple blossoms, acacia flowers and wet stone. The flavors are fresh and crisp, with Chardonnay purity and notes of pear skin, peach stone and Jurassic limestone. The back picks up poire and pêche liqueurs and grapefruit rind. A good choice for those preferring a crisper style. 18/20 points.

2016 Domaine Thomas Saint Aubin 1er Cru, Murgers des Dents de Chien ($33.99 - Total Wine) - Saint-Aubin is on the slope above Chassagne-Montrachet, beneath crags that look like dog's teeth (hence the vineyard name). Brilliant gold colored, it possesses floral aromas of apple, peach, citrus, apple tree blossoms, lemongrass and white incense. The flavors are well fruited, yet with laser-like, with notes of peach stone and granitic minerals. The back picks up Calvados and pêche liqueurs, followed by a resonant finish. 18.5/20 points.

Red Burgundy

2016 Louis Latour Mrsannay ($24.99 - Wine.com) - Marsannay is situated at the north end of the Côte de Nuits. This one shows a cherry red color and attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry and red currant with scents of rosebuds, tobacco leaf and white incense. The flavors are charmingly delicate yet well structured, with definite Pinot Noir character, picking up red licorice, cocoa powder and mocha, followed by cerise and cassis liqueurs and dried orange peel and a soft tannin finish that is lifted by right fruit acids. 18+/20 points.

2016 Joseph Drouhin Côte de Nuits Villages ($32.99 - Wine.com) - From just south of Nuits-St. Georges - Premèaux, Corglolin and Comblanchien - this is a charming Pinot Noir. It presents a brick red color and attractive aromas of strawberry, cherry, red currant, red roses, mulberry and sweet incense. The flavors, as well, are pleasing, with supple red fruits that are accented by licorice, cocoa, tea and granitic minerals. The back picks up kirsch and cassis liqueurs, followed by a nicely fruited soft yet firm tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

2016 Domaine Machard de Gramont Chorey-les-Beaune "Les Beaumonts" ($31.99 - Total Wine) - Chore-les-Beaune is situated between Aloxe-Corton and Beaune. This shows a brick red color and an attractive nose of strawberries, pomegranates, red currants. red roses, orange peel and white incense. The medium bodied flavors are appealing, with supple red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa powder, medium roast coffee and earth. The back picks up fraise and cassis liqueurs and recurring orange peel, followed by a nicely fruited soft tannin finish. Offers a lot of appeal for the price. 18.5/20 points.

2013 Domaine Derey Fixin, "Vieilles Vignes" ($34.99 - Total Wine) - From near the north end of the Côte de Nuits, this offers a brick red color and rich aromas of fraises de bois, cerise and cassis with scents of crushed roses, tobacco leaf, orange peel and wood smoke. On the palate, the flavors are medium bodied yet sturdy (from old vines) with tasty red fruits that are intermixed with licorice, cocoa powder and earth. The back reveals sensations of pressed berries, kirsch and cassis liqueurs, recurring orange peel and pencil lead, followed by a ripe tannin finish. 18.5/20 points.

January Date Night at the Eritage Resort

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 17 January 2019

Back in June, the big news in the Walla Walla Valley was the opening of the Eritage Resort north of Walla Walla on Bergevin Springs Road, off Highway 125 (past the Penitentiary). It is the joint venture of Justin Wylie, owner and winemaker of Va Piano Vineyards, who purchased the land in 2008, Scott Knox of Vista Ventures, the developer, and Fire & Vine, the resort services provider. The Resort has ten suites, with ten villas   under construction, The management team is Terra Luthi, General Manager, Deb J Carter, Event Marketing Director, and Brian Price, Executive Chef. 

We had wanted to visit Eritage for some time and when I found out the Resort was offering a "January Date Night" promotion with a prix fixe dinner menu and a discounted rate for a suite for the night, we decided this would be the perfect opportunity to have the Eritage experience. So I went ahead and booked a dinner reservation and a room.

We arrived at 3 o'clock in the afternoon on January 15th. We were greeted by Deb and Terra, the General Manager, and then shown to our room by Logan who has been with the Resort since June. The suite was spacious and comfortable as befits a resort. Our patio suite overlooked the Eritage Vineyard and a pond which also serves as an irrigation reservoir for the vineyard. 

When we arrived for dinner we were seated by Nelissa. From the "January Date Night Menu," we ordered a bottle of 2015 Reverly "Range" Syrah/Grenache Blend. As a starter, Executive Chef, Brian Price served a delicious pureed cauliflower soup, followed by the baby gem salad of bacon and greens with a creamy garlic-parmesan dressing. The second course was grilled lamb chops. Brian then served us perfectly braised short ribs. For dessert, Lynn had the Columbia Valley Farms vanilla ice cream and I had the Classic Cheesecake with a raspberry-cherry coulis. The whole meal was delicious and the wine excellent. It was a memorable dinner.

The next morning, we were greeted by breakfast plates of hard boiled eggs, charcuterie (salami, prosciutto) and the best croissant we've had since we were in France four years ago. The juices were fresh and the caffe latte and French roast coffee nice and hot. After breakfast, we packed up and bade farewell to Deb, Terra and Kyndra. Later, I received an email asking me to rate our experience on a scale of five stars for overall, food, service and ambiance. I gave scores of five stars across the board, and also said yes, I would recommend the resort to a friend. 

The Walla Walla Valley & Willamette Valley Connection

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Written by Rand Sealey

Published: 09 January 2019

A few weeks ago, I was in the Three Rivers Winey tasting room to taste wines that will be reviewed in the February issue of the Review of Washington Wines. While there, I noticed a bottle of The Four Graces Pinot Noir from Oregon on the counter. This reminded me that the Three Rivers and Four Graces wineries are under the same ownership. Here's more about this and other Walla Walla Valley and Willamette Valley connections.

The Three Rivers and The Four Graces (located in McMinville, Oregon) wineries are in the Foley Estates portfolio which includes the Chalk Hill, Chalone, Foley Estates and several other California wineries. The owner is Bill Foley, who also owns the National Hockey League team, the Vegas Golden Knights. 

Over a year ago, the Seven Hills Winery was acquired by the Crimson Wine Group, headquartered in Napa, California. Casey McClellan has continued as the winemaker. Crimson's Great Estates portfolio includes Archery Summit in Oregon and Pine Ridge, Seghesio and others in California. In the past few months, I have been receiving emails offering Archery Summit wines along with those of Seven Hills as a "Northwest Collection."

Last year, the Walla Walla Vintners winery was acquired by Oregon software, Scott Haladay of Portland. Haladay grew up in Lake Oswego, in proximity to Willamette Valley wineries and was looking for a winery to invest in and came upon Walla Walla Vintners which he bought from Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri. 

Another Willamette Valley connection is Jim Berneau of Willamette Valley Vineyards in Turner, Oregon. Berneau is also the owner of Pambrun Vineyards which owns vineyards in Oregon and the Walla Walla Valley. Jon Meuret is the winemaker for Pambrun, as well as for his own Maison Bleue winery. Both the Pambrun and Maison Bleue wines are poured at the tasting room on South Second in downtown Walla Walla. A new winery and tasting room is under construction in the "Rocks" of the South Walla Walla Valley.

So here, we have some connections between the Willamette and Walla Walla Valleys, along with portfolio inter marketing and management. There also has been expanded marketing of Oregon wines in Washington. This is an interesting development in the increasing inter-state development of winery ownership. In the February issue of the Review of Washington Wines, I will be including a selection of Oregon wines in the Best Buys section.